GRAND VOYAGE ITALY
  • Piazza
    • Older Posts
  • Travel
    • Our Family's Voyage
  • Cucina
  • Culture
  • History
  • Style
  • Photos
  • Videos
    • Music Videos
  • About
    • Survey
    • Links
  • Shop πŸ›’
  • Piazza
    • Older Posts
  • Travel
    • Our Family's Voyage
  • Cucina
  • Culture
  • History
  • Style
  • Photos
  • Videos
    • Music Videos
  • About
    • Survey
    • Links
  • Shop πŸ›’
We're All About Italy

Cucina

Mostaccioli: Italian Christmas Gingerbread for Christmas, Easter and Special Holidays

4/3/2017

Comments

 
Picture
Here in our home, one of our Christmas traditions is making gingerbread cookies and one gingerbread house each year. (CLICK to see one of our creations.) I often wondered if there is something similar in Italy and in fact, I discovered something very similar to gingerbread made in Campania, Calabria, Sicily and most of southern Italy: the Mostaccioli, a shaped, spiced, and unleavened hard cookie. Depending on the recipe, they may contain wine must (leftover from the wine making process), red wine or honey. Mostaccioli are not only for Christmas, but also for Easter and other sagre and religious festivals.

With its roots deep in Italian history, perhaps from the time of the Romans when they were placed on temple alters as offerings to the Roman gods, the tradition of Mostaccioli was continued by 15th century Dominican monks. These shaped, edible works of art are very hard and long-lasting--just like gingerbread.
Picture
You might see Mostaccioli under other names in local dialects throughout Southern Italy: Mastazzola, Mustazzoli, Mastazzuolu, 'Nzuddha, Mustazzuali, Mustazzolus (in Sardinia). Those dialects in the south can change from village to village! Regardless of the name, this spice cookie is considered by most historians to be the oldest cookie recipe in the world.

The name comes from the Latin mustacea, a cake made out of β€œmust” (un-fermented, pressed grapes, including skins, seeds and stems) that has been made since at least 300 BC. In the 1st century AD, the ancient Roman philosopher, Cato, wrote about mustacea being made with rye flour, cheese, cumin, anise, cheese, eggs and wrapped in bay leaves. Modern recipes are very different from 2000 years ago, but Mostaccioli have been made throughout central and southern Italy for hundreds of years--maybe more. The recipes for creating the most intricate shapes contain no leavening and create a dough that can be shaped by sculpting tools or pressed into molds.

Picture
While most versions contain honey, others might contain chocolate, but in all cases they are very spicy, similar to a spice cookie or gingerbread. There are simpler, non-sculpted Mostaccioli, in either a round or diamond shape, that are covered with a chocolate icing, which are more common--especially with home bakers. Some may even contain various nuts like almonds, hazelnuts or pignoli and might be shaped into a traditional biscotti shape. One version in Puglia even adds a special ingredient: a sweet wine with sugar added that has been reduced over heat into a syrup... adding a hint of the cookie's ancient past when grape must was used.
Picture
CLICK HERE for a Ciao Italia recipe.

(NOTE: There are also recipes for a pasta called Mostaccioli, typically in a penne shape.)

Food historians tend to agree that the current recipe gained popularity in 1653 after Saint Domenico--the patron saint of the Kingdom of Naples--distributed Mostaccioli cookies after a devastating earthquake in Sariano, Calabria. Every since then, on August 16th (my birthday and the Feast Day of St. Domenico), people in Calabria celebrate by baking Mostaccioli cookies and auctioning them off to benefit charity.

The traditional shapes hearken back to temple offerings: a parma (the palm), a sirena (the siren), u panaru (the basket),  u pisci spada (swordfish), and a grasta (the heart)... all real items that historically might have been left as an alter offering.  The other shapes--saints, goats, roosters, horses, pigs, lambs and birds--reflect Roman Catholic holidays and the desire to please children around the holidays. Besides Christmas, Mostaccioli are also given as gifts at Easter, weddings and on special saint days. The intricate shapes are made even more decorative by the addition of colored foil "jewels".
Some of these cookies have been elevated to a fine art form and were the subject of a special exhibit at National Museum of Applied Arts in Rome with 36 ancient shapes being displayed.
During both Natale (Christmas) and Pasqua (Easter) and other saint Festa and harvest Sagre celebrations, you will often see Mostazzolari (vendors) selling their cookies at throughout Italy, but especially in the South. Many display their cookies in a traditional manner--in wooden treasure chests. After all, these do resemble precious bejeweled treasures. 
Picture
Picture
Recipe for traditional Mostaccioli for Molding or Shaping

The Preparation is straightforward and simple..... it takes only three ingredients...

Equal weights of flour and honey:
16 ounces of 00 Italian flour, or all-purpose flour
16 ounces honey
1 tablespoon lard (or shortening)
1/2 cup of either: grape must, Anisette, Sweet Marsala or white grape juice
  1. Combine ingredients in a bowl and mix into a rough dough ball, then allow to rest covered in plastic wrap for 15 minutes.
  2. Roll out the dough to a thickness of about half-inch then cut out shapes or sculpt/carve into shapes. You can use cake decorating tools to shape and sculpt your mostaccioli into animals or other shapes.
  3. Place on a greased baking sheet or on a sheet of silicone, and bake at 325 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes.
  4. Cool well on a rack, then store in a tin box, or when perfectly dry, wrap in plastic wrap.

A more traditional method:
You can prepare the dough using one part water and three parts honey, heated in a double boiler while sifting flour slowly until a dough is formed. Let the resulting dough rest, covered overnight and then knead by hand.

Picture
Picture
Picture
--Jerry Finzi

Watch this video to see these Masters of the craft sculpt their Mostaccioli...
Copyright 2017, Jerry Finzi/Grand Voyage Italy - All Rights Reserved
Comments
    Picture

    Archives

    March 2025
    July 2024
    May 2024
    April 2024
    July 2023
    March 2023
    January 2023
    August 2022
    July 2022
    May 2021
    December 2020
    October 2020
    August 2020
    July 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    August 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    March 2016
    October 2014
    September 2014

    Categories

    All
    Antipasti
    Baking
    Beverages
    Caffè
    Carne
    Colazione
    Dolce
    Education
    Formaggio
    Hacks & Tips
    Healthy Diet
    History
    Holiday Recipes
    Humor
    Kids Recipes
    Kiitchen Style
    Olive Oil & Balsamic
    Pane
    Panini
    Pasta
    Pastry
    Pesce
    Pizza
    Pranzo
    Primo
    Restaurants
    Riso
    Sauces
    Shopping In Italy
    The Italian Gardener
    Tomatoes
    Tools For La Cucina
    Vedura
    Vino
    Zuppe

Copyright 2014 - 2024 by GrandVoyageItaly.com
Picture
  • Piazza
    • Older Posts
  • Travel
    • Our Family's Voyage
  • Cucina
  • Culture
  • History
  • Style
  • Photos
  • Videos
    • Music Videos
  • About
    • Survey
    • Links
  • Shop πŸ›’