I really regret was not bringing back more ceramic plates, especially those made by the Solimene Ceramics factory in Vietri sul Mare. Their patterns and colors are full of the vibrance and colors of the Amalfi Coast. Since then, we built our collection of Solimene bowls, plates and platters by paying higher prices on Ebay than we would have if we bought them from the Solimene factory where they were made. Dumb, right?  But there is another way to collect very special Solimene plates--by having meals in ristoranti who are members of the Unione Ristoranti del Buon Ricordo (Restaurants of Good Memory Union). Member restaurants have specially designed plates made by Solimene, cheerfully illustrating their Piatti di Giorno (dish of the day) along with the restaurant name and town they are in. Member restaurants have to abide by one rule: that they use only regional ingredients in their dishes.  Fish Soup alla Genovese Imagine going on your own Grand Voyage, traveling from restaurant to restaurant, then ordering their Piatto del Giorno, and having it delivered on an amazingly colorful and often humorous plate. Then after the meal, you get to take that plate home. What a memory! The Italian restaurateurs' association was born in Italy in 1964, and was the inspiration of Dino Villani, a advertising executive who was known for the creation of the Miss Italy pageant. Villani's dream is now a reality in over 400 member restaurants in Italy, South America (lots of Italians there), New York, Paris and Tokyo! Patrons of these restaurants receive the plates if they order either the Piatto del Giorno or as part of a multi-course Buon Ricordo tasting menu. I've even heard of some restaurants who offer plates even though they are not members of Buon Ricordo! So, check out the link below to see if there is a Buon Ricordo ristorante in towns on your itinerary. Buon viaggio e buon appetito! --Jerry Finzi Listing of the member restaurants in Italy.   on AMAZON When we traveled in Italy, we needed to hydrate--it's hot there, even in the fall. Of course, we carried Thermos bottles to keep water in (filling them with the public Nasoni and acqua potabile fountains, or we'd pick up bottles of acqua frizzante (sparkling water). Lucas and I also used the water to wet our bandanas, either puttin gthem around our necks or under our caps! But there were times we just needed to quench our thirst with a bit more flavor--and bubbles. Sure, they have Coke there, but we're not such big Coke drinkers, and besides, it tastes very different there.  On AMAZON As we experimented with Italian sodas, we discovered that the Italian Fanta is amazing. It's not super sweet like in the States, is lighter in color, and in fact contained actual orange juice! Fresh, fruity and frizzante! Once in a while here at home, we will order some from Amazon to bring back that Italian thirst-quenching memory. Perfect in summer with a panino out on our patio.
 on AMAZON Next is a classic Sicilian flavor... Néssi's Blood Orange Soda. Again, beautiful, nostalgic artwork on the can of a woman on a bicycle. There's nothing like the flavor of blood oranges in Italy. Their flavors are more profound and the colors much deeper that blood oranges grown in the U.S.. This one is refreshing and might be a great addition to your cocktail mix collection.  on Amazon If you want to drink a truly Italian, strange soda, you have to try Chinotto. It's a bittersweet flavor halfway between a cola and citrus flavor, but without much sweetness. Apparently, this beverage was popular even in ancient times. This is very popular with many Italians who consider it very refreshing. It's made from the fruit of the citrus myrtle-leafed myrtifolia tree.
When Lucas and I tried it, we decided it was an acquired taste and not for us. Still, it's an authentic flavor that you might very well fall in love with, especially if you like bitter flavors. Several companies produce Chinotto in Italy, including San Pellegrino (under the brand names Chinò and Chinotto) and Fanta Chinotto in Italy. Enjoy your Italian life! --Jerry Finzi   When we spent some time on the Amalfi Coast, one of our goals was to visit "the" ceramics town--Vietri sul Mare, just west of Salerno. One of its must-see places to visit was the amazing Ceramica Artistica Solimene, one of the most iconic artisan shops for Vietri ceramics. Rather than the geometri, Renaissance designs of other ceramic design shops, Solemene's designs are childlike, with free-handed strokes and creatures and colors of the life along the Amalfi Coast... fish, octopus, pigs, chickens and donkeys. The building which houses the "factory" (if you can call it that, since all the ceramics are made by and painted by hand), is itself a work of art, commissioned by Vincenzo Solimene and completed in 1954. Architect Paolo Soleri designed this masterpiece of architecture, a mid-century modern homage to ceramics, with its inverted, cone shaped exterior covered with terracotta discs.  The interior houses a sales area on the first floor open to the skylights on the roof, with a ramp that spirals upward (no stairs, but there is a small elevator) to different levels where the clay is formed, sculpted and then painted. The spiraling design is similar to modern parking garages. Chain smoking artisans welcome visitors and will even give short lessons on their techniques (our son--then 11--was shown how to attach a handle to a cup). Visiting the Solimene factory can be considered the highlight of spending some time in Vietri sul Mare's ceramics district--there are scores of ceramic shops within a few blocks.
 Our own Gallo pattern serving my ratatouille The family business has been creating ceramics for more than a century and has produced tableware, garden ceramics and pots, sculptural pieces, floor and wall tiles--all worked and painted entirely by hand, using a combination of modern and ancient techniques, such as the potter's wheel. Their tableware is food safe (they utilize lead-free glazes) and can even withstand dishwashers. In our own Pennsylvania villa, we serve our meals on Solimene ceramics. So far, in about 5 years, no chips--just compliments. --Jerry Finzi  The chaotic, colorful main sales floor 
Random pieces decorate the outside of the Solimene building  On Amazon...
 Calling all Milanese! Attenzione a tutti i Milanesi! The new Starbucks is opening today on Piazza Curdusio in Milano! The location is in the old post office... Please... visit the store, order one of their "coffees" and perhaps shoot a video of your visit and post it here on GVI... Tell us what you think about the "Starbucks Experience". Take photos of their menu and prices--and their giant sized offerings. Are the high prices (and high sugar & fat content) really worth a few couches and free WiFi? GVI wants to know, and will include your impressions in an upcoming article. Let's really take a look to see if Italians really want Starbucks in the land of Moka pots and espresso. You can contact us here, or send us email via our Grand Voyage Italy Facebook page. --GVI For further reading: Will Starbucks Make it in Italy, Home of the Quick, Tiny Espresso Shot?
 Did you ever wonder about the everyday life of Renaissance Masters, like Michelangelo? Did you wonder if they took long walks or picnics? Did they go to the local taverns to kick back a few brews and relax with the guys? Did they attend sporting events or shop for bargains at the local flea market? How about their food? What did they eat and how did they do their shopping? Well, we can actually tell from this grocery shopping list written by Michelangelo himself in the 16th century. He ate anchovies, bread, two fennel soups, a herring (un aringa), four anchovies, tortelli, and wine (“un bocal di vino”), among other things. He drew the list as pictograms because his servant was illiterate. He would tell him what he wanted, "get the big loaf of bread, not the small one", but also sketch it so the servant could look at the images to refresh his memory while at the market. Experts say the list is for three separate meals. He drew bread rolls as simple circles--an easy shape for his servant to remember meant - bread. For another meal, he wanted two rolls but for another, six. The herring is sketched by itself, and bowls are filled with salad and anchovies. Two dishes of stewed fennel are shown side by side (perhaps he wasn't dining alone?). For the wine, he drew a small wine carafe next to a larger one--perhaps two types, one being an after dinner, sweet wine? The tortelli (tortellini) pasta were not drawn at all. Perhaps his servant's wife made them, something he obviously would never forget if the Master asked for some.  Since the letter on the other side of the list was dated March 18, 1518, the meatless menu would make sense falling during the Lent period of fasting. Michelangelo couldn't eat meat, so it was bread, fish and veggies. Still, for its day, this was a nobleman's menu... Michelangelo was anything from a starving artist.
During this same year, Michelangelo had ordered many of his notes and sketches to be burned--the Renaissance method of shredding documents. It's amazing that this little take-out order managed to survive at all. This grocery list is archived at the Florence museum Casa Buonarroti, where one can find many of the artist’s handwritten notes, doodles and sketches. --Jerry Finzi   by Jerry Finzi While exploring the villages of the Amalfi Coast, Voyagers are certain to notice that the lemons there are larger than they are used to. They are sure to come across the Sfusato lemon (about two to three times the size of a supermarket lemon) and will be further shocked when they are confronted with the giant-sized, Cedro Citron variety of lemons. They are beastly looking things, with a pebbly surface, strange shapes with a large nipple at one end, and are often as big as your head!  Cedri are primarily found in Italy, from the Italian Riviera down to the Amalfi Coast, though they are occasionally spotted in France, Isreal and even exported to Britain. There are three different citron types: acidic, non-acidic and pulpless. Of the different cultivars, the acidic Diamante is more common in Italy. Cedro citrons are usually up to three to four times the length of common lemons and can measure between 10 and 15 inches in diameter. They can weight up to 3-4 pounds each. The pebbly surface ripens from green to a bright yellow--both colors can be harvested, the peak season being fall and winter. Most--about 70%--of the lemon is white pith from 2-5 inches thick with a soft texture and almost sweet lemony fragrance. In its center is a small amount of segmented pulp with a few pale seeds. This lemon is fairly dry and not used for its juice and the taste is milder than a common lemon.  The pith can be eaten raw or cooked: in salads, atop bruschetta, in jams and preserves, in risotto or pickled. The rind of this citron is very aromatic and a bit sweet, and is used to produce "citron", or candied lemon (used in Italian celebration breads and cakes, like panettone). Some claim it can be a remedy for hangovers, coughs and indigestion. Since the Renaissance, the oils from the skin have also been used in perfumery and cosmetics due to their delicate and fragrant scent. If cooking while in Italy (or if you can get some cedri at home), try these recipes: Risotto alla Sorrento with Fennel and Sage  1 Cedro lemon 1-1/2 cups rice for risotto (Carnaroli, Vialone Nano or Arborio) 1-1/4 cups freshly grated parmesan 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, plus another tablespoon to finish 4 tablespoons Extra virgin olive oil 1 head of finoccio (bulbing fennel) - finely diced 3 stalks celery - finely diced 1 cup white white Vermouth 1 quart chicken stock 4 large julienned sage leaves (or 1/2 teaspoon dried-crushed) Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Directions
Candied Chocolate Cedro Strips Recipe  (A great holiday snack) 1 - 2 pound cedro 1 cup sugar 1 pint water 3-5 ounces bitter sweet chocolate
You can store these in an airtight container and serve at the end of a meal with fruit, nuts, biscotti and espresso. © GVI 2018 You might also be interest in:
When Life Gives Them Lemons, Italians Make Limoncello Amalfi Lemon and Chicken Pasta Lemon and Turkey Pasta with Prosecco  The setting: a small and friendly supermarket in a old sleepy town in Italy
The characters: Serena and the staff at supermarket Il giovane cassiere, all’entrata del supermercato: “Buongiorno!” The young cashier, at the supermarket entrance: “Good morning!” Serena: “Buongiorno!” Poi, parlando tra sé e sé: “Allora, vediamo la lista della spesa: pere, uva, funghi…” Serena: “Good morning!” Then, talking to herself: “Right, let’s have a look at the shopping Dopo aver scelto e pesato le verdure, Serena controlla ancora la lista: “Semolino. Dove l’hanno messo?” Poi, vedendo Enzo, il manager e tuttofare del supermarket, gli chiede: “Ciao Enzo! Dov’è il semolino?” Having chosen and weighed the vegetables, Serena checks the shopping list once more: “Semolina. Where have they put it?” Then, having seen Enzo, the manager and handyman of the supermarket, she asks him: “Hi Enzo! Where is the semolina?”list: pears, grapes, mushrooms…”.... Click for to Read More...   Specialty Stores Alimentari Small, neighborhood grocery store. They are everywhere and they are charming and helpful. Everything from toilet paper, water, sodas, wine (under 5 Euros!), produce, breads, cheeses (cut to order), bottled tomato sauce (pilati), salty snacks and biscotti (packaged cookies) and deli meats. The literal translation of alimentari is food. Everything you need to stock your rental villa's fridge or for a picnic is here. Panificio Bread baker (also, Panettiere, Panetteria or Forno--literally, oven), usually referring to a larger bread bakery. Forno Antico usually designates a bakery with older, historic, wood fired ovens that makes regional breads, but also may offer other things such as pizza, foccacia, tarts (savory or sweet) and pastries. Pasticceria Pastries, cakes (sometimes bread) Enoteca Wine shop (in our experience, mostly packaged tourist wines. Supermarkets and alimentari also have wine and liquors) Formaggeria Cheeses Frutta e Verdura Fruits and vegetables, Also Frutteria. Gelateria Ice cream (gelato and other frozen treats) Because many gelateria are open during riposa (the 2-3 hour lunch closure), we found many in smaller towns also offer light lunch snacks. Confetteria Confections, candies. Latteria Dairy (milk, butter, cheese). Also, Cremeria. Salumeria Cold cuts, cheese, salami, some canned goods (also called a Pizzicheria in some regions) Macelleria Fresh meat, salami, and sausage Rosticceria Take out and eat-in roasted foods, usually meats and vegetables Pescheria Fish Supermercato Supermarket. Some are national brands, like Carrefour, Coop, Crai, Essalunga, Auchun and Conad. These stores can be very large and located just outside town centers, while others are smaller. In cities you will see very small looking supermarket entrances, but they open up into much larger spaces. Bring a cloth or mesh bag and bag your own groceries. They charge for plastic shopping bags. Wear the provided plastic gloves when picking produce. Pizzeria Pizzeria. Many offer other dishes for lunch and dinner, and some are now offering pizza by the slice, or "al taglio". Bar Espresso or cappuccino for breakfast with pastries; sandwiches for lunch. Especially in smaller towns, this type of shop is the only place for you and your family to find something lunch. Most Italians (even working in restaurants) go home for 2-3 hours from 12-3pm for riposa, similar to a siesta. Tabacchi Tobacco products, lottery machines, various sundry items. Often combined as Bar-Tabacchi. (Unlike in U.S. cities, where "bottega" is specifically used to mean a local, small grocery store, in Italian, the word literally means "shop", and can have another word attached to describe what type of products it carries.) Osteria Tavern, often with simple food choices like sandwiches, pizzas, foccacia, especially during Serenissima, or Happy Hour. Also, Taverna or Trattoria. Birreria Micro Brewery. Panineria Sandwich (panini) shop. Panellari In Sicily, a street vendor or small shop selling chick pea fritters and sandwiches. Hamburgheria Just what it sounds like.  Non Food Stores
(Note: the word Negozio means Shop.) Farmacia Pharmacy Edicola News-Magazine shop Drogheria Dry goods, canned goods, kitchen and household items. Even though it might sound like it, this is not a drug store. Ottico Optician Parrucheria Hair dresser (women) Barbiere Barber (men's) Lavasecco Laundry-Dry Cleaners (Drop-off service, often hard to find. As a local). Lavanderia a Gettone Laundromat (There are some chains, like Ondablu or Ecolava, but many are independent shops, often difficult to find. Once again, ask a local.) Mesticheria Hardware Sarto Tailor Libreria Book shop Cartoleria Stationers, office supplies, paper goods. Immobiliari Real Estate Scarperia Shoe store Sportivi Sports Cartoleria Stationary Store Vetreria Glassware, giftware. Gioielleria Jewelry Negozio di Abbigliamento Clothing shop Biancheria Undergarments, linens. Gioielleria Jewelry Store. Negozio di Giocattoli Toy shop. Also, Giocheria. --Jerry Finzi |
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