What's Worth Buying When in Florence

Leather Sandals Made-to-Order in Florence

To start with, buy one of the wonderful leather and marbled paper journals or sketchbooks to record your Voyage. Not everything has to be captured in digital form, you know. Let the Hemingway in you out and onto the written page. 

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Everyone (men and women) should come back home with a scarf from Florence, tied in that unique, chic manner. This is one case where "better" or a designer name is not necessarily needed. The street vendors have lots of stylish scarves that are affordable. Haggling (it's expected) for a two-for-one price will be part of the story you'll tell friends when you return home. Look for "Fatto in Italia" (made in Italy) labels, but if you really want a more chic version, you can spend a lot more on one of the many shops.  Tip: Ladies should always carry one in case you want to visit one of the many beautiful churches--heads must be covered. 

There's nothing like the baby's bottom, soft as a feather, Italian leather gloves. And Florence in the place to get some. Just be sure to find a good shop and steer clear of the street vendors cheap imports. 

Florence is a walking city, but luckily, it is also a city with a time-honored tradition of making the world's best leather shoes. You can find shoe merchants everywhere you look. Some will offer custom shoe design, making shoes to fit your feet exactly, while others will have ready made shoes to pick from. The most affordable option is to have a pair of leather sandals made while you wait, with options of color, leather, lacing all selected by you. 

Most women would love to buy a Florentine made handbag--if they can afford it. The upscale shops are the safest--and most expensive--option to ensure you're getting high quality leather-goods made in Florence. The street vendors have many handbags imported from China--junk for the tourists made from vinyl. If you want to find a bargain from a street vendor, give the bag (or its strap) a bend and smell it. Leather has an unmistakable scent. Be careful of "bonded leather", which is ground up leather, textured and glued to a fabric base. You can also bring along a BIC lighter and ask the vendor to allow you to do a "flash test"--quickly passing a flame across leather won't hurt it, but vinyl will give off a chemical smell. 

I know my boy, Lucas would love to do this if we get back to Florence--making marbled papers. There are stationers who specialize in the making of marbleized papers right in their shops. Some offer demonstrations and will even let you make your own. 

Italy has produced some of the most beautiful and desirable fountain and calligraphy pens in the world. In Florence you'll find small shops that might have that perfect pen, fit for your hands to pen your love letters, notes from your Voyage or your next novel. 

Tools of the trade in a shop in the Oltrano district

Sculptor at work in the Oltrano

Keep in mind when visiting Florence, that you are in a timeless city with centuries-old tradition of artisan crafts, with many maestri (masters) in each of their specific trade-crafts. Many still work with traditional tools and methods, while others have modernized their techniques to suit the increase in demand from the tourist trade. This is a double edged sword. On one had, it is still possible to find the best traditional leathers, jewelry, linens and more. On the other hand, the casual Voyager to Florence has to be wary of shoddy materials, careless workmanship, outright fakes and forgeries and cheap factory-made imports from China. 



A great way to start your search is to take a stroll through medieval streets of the Oltrarno (“other side of the Arno”) neighborhood,  in between Via Maggio and Piazza Pitti.  Walk past the vendors on the Ponte Vecchio to the south bank of the Arno and then a bit west. You will sense that you really stepped back in time into the Renaissance discover a literal maze of artisan workshops in the tiny streets--violin makers, bookbinders, gilders, ceramics, tilemakers, mosaics, calligraphers, clock makers,metal-workers, framers and sculptors. Just remember not to go during riposa, when most Italians close up their shops for 203 hours between 2-3 pm. Early morning or later in the afternoon is best. There are also many little piazza with trattoria to enjoy, sit back and just take it all in... 

--Jerry Finzi

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Jewelry maker in her Oltrano studio