When I was a young boy we would drive down to Hoboken (Click to read about our visit to a Hoboken Festival) to visit my Uncle Sal and Aunt Antionette in their red brick row house. The part I loved best was their lower floor... I suppose you could call it a basement, but it was really like a finished apartment, even though there were large, silver-painted heating pipes running along the ceiling, with Nonna Finzi sitting quietly in the lower front parlor as the loud chaos of our Italian families cooked, played and teased each other. When it was warm out, the men would play and gamble and argue in the bocce court behind their vegetable garden. But most of all, I remember the kitchen down there... white subway tile running all the way up to meet the ceiling... and the big pots... and those great smells. It seems that just about every time I visited, there was a huge pot of Sunday Gravy on the stove top simmering and letting its rich smells escape through the place and into my nostrils. There seemed to be an endless supply of meatballs (polpette), sausages and brasciole. Then at Easter time there was a real treat: Pizzagaina. In our family, that's what we called it. PizzaGAINA, pronounced PEETS-a-GAYN-a. But depending on what part of Italy your family comes from, and the dialect spoken, you might hear it called any of the following: Pizzachiena, Pizza Chena, or even Pizza Rustica. A rough translation in all cases is "full Pie" with the latter being "rustic pie". Pizza Cena would mean "dinner pie". There is also another version called Pizza Ripiena that is thinner and more of a double stuffed crust pizza, and definitely not as thick as the Pizzagaina "full" pies. Never thought about it before, but maybe they are called "full" because that's how they'll make you feel. It’s usually made before Easter on Good Friday and eaten on Easter Sunday as a celebratory meat pie to break the Lenten fast. After having given up all red meats during Lent, this dish is really going off the wagon because it contains lots of different meats and cheeses. An Easter feast might also have meat in other courses, too. You can imagine in times past how a spring lamb or pig were slaughtered or even a cinghiale (wild boar) was hunted and butchered in preparation for the Easter festa--a big deal after a lean winter and Lent. Usually, a hour or two before they put out the pasta, sausages, brasciole and meatballs, my Aunt Anne would put out a tray of mixed antipasti along with the Pizzagaina for slicing. While I loved picking on a few olives, some chunks of provolone and salami, the real prize was getting a nice wedge of pizzagaina. Often it was still warm with its thick, eggy, meaty filling of salty ham, salami, chunks of hard boiled eggs and other things I couldn't identify as a kid (more than likely mortadella or capicola). There are two ways to make this Easter pie--one using thin, layered slices of cold cut meats, with the other using diced pieces of meat and sausage. The base of the filling is made with egg and cheese, something similar to a French quiche (but to my taste, far less greasy). Pretty much every family will have it's own version. My Dad would call this type of recipe baBUCcia (sp?), a Molfetese dialect word he used to mean "all mixed up together". While the ingredients might be similar, everyone makes it differently, and the recipe might change from region to region, perhaps a frugal habit of using up what meats were left over by the time the long winter reached Easter. Some make it looking very much like a proper meat pie in a pie pan, while most use a high sided spring form pan. Still others might make a large one in a lasagna pan, with far too many eggs (in my opinion), and cutting squares to feed a large family gathering. On Easter Sunday this year, Lucas and I set out to make our own version of this classic holiday pie... Let us know how yours turned out! Babbo Finzi's Pizzagaina For the Dough 1 pound flour (to ensure a good crust, it's best to weigh the flour) 2 eggs 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 sticks cold butter (1/2 lb), cut into small pieces 1/4 cup whole or skim milk, plus a little more if needed at the end 1 beaten egg with a pinch of salt to brush the crust For the Filling 32 ounces ricotta cheese (well drained, preferably the night before) 1 dash nutmeg 25 cracks black pepper 2 large eggs 1 cup sharp provolone, 1/2" dice 1 cup Fontina, 1/2" dice 1 cup smoked mozzarella, 1/2" dice 1/2 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano or caciocavallo, grated 1/4 pound Boars Head Piccolo Prosciutto or Speck, sliced 1/8" thick 1/4 pound Boars Head Pickle Pepper or capicola, sliced 1/8" thick 1/4 pound Boars Head Crushed Peppermill Turkey, sliced 1/8" thick (NOTE: You can substitute 3/4 pounds of 3-4 of your favorite meats for the above... chicken, pork, ham, boar, sweet or spicy sausage broken up, etc.) Making the Dough for the Crust In either a stand mixer with a dough hook, or a food processor with a blade, add all the flour and salt and mix a bit before adding the small pieces of butter. If using a stand mixer, you can mix on medium--if using a food processor, pulse until the mixture starts coming together, but don't over process or your crust won't be flaky. Drizzle in the 1/4 cup milk and the 2 eggs (You can beat them before adding it you wish). This should make a dough ball form as you continue to mix/pulse. If the ball doesn't quite form, drizzle in a little bit more milk, but stop when a ball forms, then turn it out onto a work surface lightly dusted with flour. With your hands (but without kneading), press your dough into a large ball at first, then flatten it into a thick disk and wrap in plastic wrap and set aside to rest at room temperature. Do not over mix or knead your dough or it will be dense and loose its flakiness. Making the Filling
Putting Together the Pizzagaina
You can get 8 or 9 decent sized slices out of this pie. Serve as an robust antipasto or have a slice with a salad on the side for a lunch or light supper. You can also serve a slice with a dollop of marinara on the side. There you have it, our Pizzagaina recipe... enjoy... Boun appetito e Bouna Pasqua! (Click HERE to see our Double-Crust, Pizza Rustica recipe) --Jerry Finzi
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Here is a photo of the Pane di Pasqua I baked this year for Easter. We just had it this morning with fried eggs, Italian Mille Fiori honey and blueberry jam. Delizioso!
BTW, the eggs in the bread were raw when I baked the bread and they turned out slightly under the "hard" state--still very good. I topped the breads (I made two) off with chopped almonds and turbinado sugar. If you didn't get a chance to read it, here's a link to my blog article: Italian Easter Bread: Pane di Pasqua Recipe Easter celebration breads are made throughout Italy... Pane di Pasqua. To celebrate Easter in Sicily, they make "baby-doll" breads for girls, and breads shaped like ducks, lambs and horses for boys. In most areas of Italy, there are Easter breads and mostly are sweet and contain whole, brightly dyed eggs which are braided into the bread, with the eggs cooking during the baking. In Lombardy there is the Colomba Pasquale (literally "Easter dove"), which has become popular throughout Italy. In Sardinia, the celebration breads get even more intricate, with scissor work on the dough adding amazing details in Easter egg baskets. The eggs can be brightly colored or natural. In the Greek tradition, the same sort of bread is made with eggs dyed red by using onion skins. The eggs represent birth, or rather, at Easter the re-birth. I've made my Easter Egg Braided Bread several times over the years for my family... I thought I'd share the recipe: This recipe can make one round bread or two smaller straight braided breads, or 6 individual breads. Dying the eggs: First of all, dye 4-6 eggs, but do them while they are raw. The baking will cook them to a hard boiled state. If you want to make real looking like partridge eggs, dye them a pale blue and then use a tooth brush with brown dye to put blotches and spots all over each egg. Proofing Yeast: 1 tablespoon instant or active dry yeast. 1/3 cup milk (at 115 F) 1 tablespoon sugar
Making the dough: 2 1/2 - 3 cups all-purpose flour (depends on humidity... don't put in all the flour if it doesn't need it, but if it's a rainy day or you're using jumbo eggs, you might need 4 cups). 1/2 cup warm milk (115 F) 1/4 cup orange juice (room temperature) 1/2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon salt 8 tablespoons butter (softened & cut into small pieces) 3 eggs well beaten (You can substitute Egg Beaters if you like). 1 teaspoon vanilla (or almond flavoring for a more Italian flavor) For egg wash: 2 eggs beaten (egg wash for brushing)
Forming the Bread:
Buona Pasqua! --Jerry Finzi You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr Article and recipe copyright 2016 - Jerry Finzi/Grand Voyage Italy - All rights reserved
from Olive Oil Times, March 17, 2016 Deoleo, the world’s largest olive oil company, has initiated a voluntary recall of Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive Oil (8.5 oz.) and Carapelli Extra Virgin Olive Oil, (25.5 oz.), sold in glass bottles in 20 U.S. states, according to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration Recall Information database. The products are being recalled due to the detection of trace amounts of Trifloxystrobin and Tebuconazole — two pesticides that the U.S. does not allow in any amount in olive oil. Both of the chemicals are classified as “not likely human carcinogens.” Last November, Deoleo USA issued a voluntary recall withdrawing some of its Bertolli and Carapelli Extra Light Tasting and Bertolli Classico Pure Olive Oil because the products may have prematurely spoiled, according to notices sent to several major retailers. “Our investigation to date reveals that the oil has prematurely oxidized, causing potential off odor and taste, which presents a quality but not a health issue,” the company said at the time. “We have identified the source of the problem with one of our refining suppliers and have taken immediate corrective action.” In another development, the U.S. distributor for Bertolli and Filippo Berio olive oils, attacked the credibility of the lead plaintiff in a class-action lawsuit against the importer. According to Law360, Salov North America Corp. said in an opposition to Rohini Kumar’s class certification motion that there was no evidence to support Kumar’s claim that she interpreted “Imported from Italy” to mean the oil was only made with Italian olives. Salov also pointed out that Kumar had been convicted as a felon which, the company argued, cast further doubt on her credibility as a lead witness. As a young Catholic, all I knew about St. Joseph is what the nuns taught us: that he was a foster parent to Jesus; he worked as a carpenter; and that if your parents were selling their home, burying a little statue of him upside down in your garden would help get a buyer. As a grown man and a father to my Lucas, I realize that St. Joseph's real strength was as a father... He must have been a man of great faith and trust and love to accept Jesus as his own son. La Festa di San Giuseppe (Feast of St. Joseph) on March 19th in Italy is a saint day celebrating the mortal father of Jesus--namely, Joseph. There are two meanings for this day in Italy: as a Name Day to celebrate anyone with the name Giuseppe, Joseph, Josephine or Beppe, but also as La Festa del Papà (alternately, la Festa del Babbo), on which most Italians celebrate their fathers, as we do on Fathers Day. There are some interesting ways to celebrate, but of course, most involve food. For instance, artichokes come to market in March in Italy, so eating artichokes stuffed with a breadcrumb mixture is one way... the breadcrumbs represent sawdust, honoring St. Joseph's life as a carpenter. On St. Joseph's day, tradition calls for sprinkling breadcrumbs on pasta dishes rather than cheese. Then there is Pane di San Giuseppe in which bread dough is fashioned into crosses and other various shapes. Another cerebration dish to make to celebrate St. Joseph or your Dad (my father would have loved this) is to make Pasta cod Sarde (Pasta with Sardines), a traditional meal made with bucatini (hollow, spaghetti-like pasta), raisins, pignoli nuts, fennel, onions and sardines. Then there are the sweet treats... mainly sfinci (alt, sfinge). Some are made like profiteroles or cream puffs and stuffed or topped with either a custard or a sweet ricotta filling and topped with a sour cherry, while others are more like bready, sugared zeppole, some stuffed, some not. There are also others called Zeppole di San Giuseppe that are not bready like what we Italian-Americans buy at Italian festivals called zeppole but are like cream puffs. Bottom line, there are lots of sweets that are made to celebrate St. Joseph's Day, and in Italy, the word "zeppole" is used fairly broadly to refer to many types of fried or baked donuts. In Sicily, during the Middle Ages, people prayed to St. Joseph to bring rain and save them from starvation and drought. The rains came and so did the fava bean crop, which saved the people. Still today, fava beans are part of celebrating St. Joseph--by eating Maccu (a fava bean soup) and carrying a fava bean that has been blessed by a priest in their pocket for good fortune. In the United States, a tradition of wearing red clothing was started to offset the proximity of St. Patrick's Day on which people wear green. Apparently, there is no religious or other significance of wearing red on St. Joseph's Day. On Saturday night for St. Joseph's Day, and to honor my Dad I made a special pizza--a traditional Sfincione which was covered with breadcrumbs on top. My Dad was not a great carpenter, but always loved working with wood and his hands. When I was a boy, he held the wood as I would try using the saw. He was a truly great father, never judging, always there for me. Dad, you would have loved a couple of slices of Sfincione... We miss your smile, Sally Boy...
The first time anyone travels to Italy, there are always a list of "must sees" that they try to squeeze into the limited time of their voyage. Especially when you're traveling as a family, you try to satisfy everyone's goals and dreams. But there are some things that might be missed due the to tight time constraints of checking in, checking out, train schedules, car rental pickups and drop offs, ad infinitum. So I came up with an idea for a second trip to Italy where one doesn't have to do any "must sees" and try to experience even more of day to day life in Italy. This idea is based on something we totally missed out on during our intensive three weeks Voyaging through Italy--markets. Markets in Italian towns are on very specific days and times. Usually they start early in the morning (especially true for food markets) and often close early. Flea Markets might only be held once a week or month. Authentic antiques markets might be held even less than that--perhaps once a month or season. We missed market days either because we were in the wrong place, or in the right town on the wrong day. We missed early morning markets because of tight schedules for check out and check in times, and time spent driving from one location to the next. The next time around, we're determined to slow it down a lot, pick fewer "hub" places to stay so we can live the Italian life at a slower pace--while experiencing the wonderful markets. Here's the plan... Forget tourist hot spots and "must sees" and shop where the locals shop for food (planning lots of picnics and cooking back at your apartment's kitchen). Plan your agenda on where you will buy food, fish, clothes or antiques. Book an apartment in a central hub location so that you can journey out to this town and that on market days.... hunting for the best cheese, fruit, sausages, leather bags, hand crafted fabrics, lace and more. Find a genuine antique to bring back home. So, decide on what markets you'd like to experience, book a flight and an apartment and gas up that rental car... Here are some options of various types of markets all over Italy... Enjoy your shopping! Naviglio Grande Canal Antiquties Market, Milano In Milan, you can enjoy a fantastic antiques market right on the banks of the Naviglio Grande Canal. Stalls offer furniture, porcelain, books, jewelry, paintings and prints and spans nearly a mile from Viale Gorizia to the bridge on Via Valenza. The market is open on the last Sunday of each month with many bars, shops, restaurants and numerous art galleries in addition to the vendors. Piazza dei Ciompi Flea Market, Florence Open daily from 9am to 7pm this is considered Florence's best flea market. It really gets busy on the last Sunday of the month its 100 extra stalls also overflow into the streets around. There's the usual eclectic mix that makes flea market shopping so addictive! Campo dei Fiori Market, Rome Campo dei Fiori translates as Field of Flowers, and in fact, there is a large contingent of vendors that sell wonderful flowers here. But primarily, this is a food market. It's a stunning piazza in the heart of Rome not far from the Pantheon with a gruesome past--public executions were held here. Though filled with tourists in the high season, the market is also frequented by locals. By night, it transforms into a great place to have dinner in one of its many outdoor ristoranti. And if you're staying in Rome, you can walk to this and many other types of markets... and not have to pay for gas. Mercato Nuovo, Florence The Mercata Nuovo was named the "New" market when it was built, around the middle of the 16th century in the heart of the city, just a few steps from the Ponte Vecchio. Initially, it was intended for the sale of silk and luxury goods and then for the famous straw hats, but today mainly leather goods and souvenirs are sold. In the corner niches, statues of famous Florentines were installed during the 18 century. The focal point of the loggia is the Fontana del Porcellino--fountain of the piglet. What you see is actually a copy of the original bronze wild boar by Pietro Tacca from the sixteenth century marble. The original marble of the Porcellino can be found at Palazzo Pitti. Popular tradition has it that rubbing the nose brings fortune, so over time, the piggy's nose has developed quite a polish. Visitors are encouraged to place a coin in the mouth of the boar after rubbing its nose, and superstition implies that the wish will be granted if the offering tumbles through the grate where the water flows. The slope of the grate is such that most coins do fall through, and are collected by the city. Lungo il Tevere festival, Rome Not exactly a market, per se, but in the summer, the Lungo il Tevere festival runs from mid-June through the end of August and features vendors, restaurants, music, and bars in festive tents lining the river walk on the Trastevere side of the river. It’s the place to be, often until the wee hours of the morning. Porta Portese, Rome In the work-a-day Trastevere neighborhood, this is probably the most famous flea market in Rome It stretches from Piazzale Portuense to Viale Trestevere and is held on Sundays from 6.30am to 2pm. Bargaining will get you anything from 10 to 30 % off, so give it a go. You'll find everything here, including a lot of junk, but keep your eyes peeled and you may come home with a treasure. Mercato Orientale, Genoa At the Mercato Orientale (Eastern Market) of Genoa you can find everything from tripe to baked goods and fresh pasta, plus textiles, fruits, vegetables, household goods and footwear. It is a true gathering place, crowded by the locals, where they purchase traditional products, local foods, and specialties from different cultures.A visit here is an authentic experience and not to be missed if you are into local color color, flavors and scents. Molfetta Fish Market, Molfetta (Bari) When you visit an old world palatial fish market building like the one just off the harbor in the port town of Molfetta, you realize that we Americans are very fussy in our fish preferences. While the average U.S. supermarket has perhaps 4-6 types of fish, some shrimp and clams, Italians enjoy a much wider variety of sea food. We like to buy our fish in little plastic trays, trimmed and cleaned for us by someone we might not ever see. This market is a lively place--and not just the shouting fish vendors--but the fish themselves... the marble display slabs are brimming with fish so fresh that most are still alive and flapping about, shrimp's tentacles feel about, sea urchin's spines move and octopus try to crawl away. If you can get past the magnificent smell of the place (our boy Lucas objected), this is an experience you won't want to miss. (Read A Blessing in Molfetta's Waters) La Vucciria Market, Palermo La Vucciria is a Palermo's colorful, exotic market . If you leave Piazza Marina with the sea behind you you'll reach Corso Vittorio Emanuele, just before Via Maqueda on the right you should see, hear and smell the market. The colors, flavors and voices of Palermo come together and vendors will try strongly to entice you to buy their offerings, from freshly caught fish to unusual vegetables and amazing spices. Food stalls sell an array of sandwiches--panelle, chickpea fritters, aubergines, octopus - you name it. There are places to sit and have a meal too... and as you sit overlooking the market you'll think you're in the middle of Shanghai or Casablanca instead of Sicily. Porta Palazzo, Turino This market is held every day in Piazza della Repubblica in Turin, very close to the Porte Palatine and the Duomo. If you want to fully enjoy the market of Porta Palazzo, Saturday is the day to go--the busiest day, but also because every Saturday just behind the market there is a flea market, where you could find old records, antiques, postcards, vintage clothing, glassware, ceramics and more. The main market is very mixed: fruit and vegetables, household goods, butchers, fish, cheese, sausage, shoes, clothing and spices. This market is huge (one of Europe's largest), but it's also one of the more multi-ethnic markets affording more exotic offerings in addition to the more traditional Italian produce. Piazza del Ferrarese, Bari (Puglia) Piazza del Ferrarese, named after a Ferrara merchant who lived here in the 17th century, provides an elegant entrance to the old town. On your left are the rounded arches of Sala Murat which holds contemporary art exhibitions, and on your right is the old indoor fish market. The piazza is lined with bars and cafés, an old section of roman road roped off in the middle. On certain days there are food vendors under tents. To the north it merges into Piazza Mercantile. But for the authentic experience, walk a block or so south along the waterfront and you'll come across the waterside fish market where the daily catch is sold directly from the fishermen. You'll see a covered structure with concrete tables where the fishermen are supposed to sell their wares, but being furbo, most avoid the fees the city charges for this and sell their catch along the sidewalk just outside the structure. Piazza Campo del Palio, Asti This is Piedmont's largest food market held in the Piazza Campo del Palio in Asti. The Campo is also where horse races are held in September. This market is considered a general market with varied products being sold. It is open twice weekly on Wednesdays & Saturdays... clothing, shoes, haberdashery, hardware’s, household items, cheese, meat and bakery stands--and of course, the famous sparking Asti Spumonte wine. Fruit and vegetables in the morning only. You might think about planning a trip in September and take in the Palio race too! Ballarò Market, Palermo This is the market where you will find a lot of locals doing their shopping. A Sicilian street market is a cacophony of sights, sounds and scents. Be prepared for the shouting, barking and singing of the vendors pushing their products on you--fruits, vegetables, fish and meats--which can intimidate the uninitiated. The name probably comes from Balhara village, where there were Arab merchants. There is a strong Arabian influence in Sicily. The ambience is heightened by colored tarpaulins suspended as tents to protect the wares from the elements. Ballarò market extends from Piazza Ballarò in the Albergheria district toward the main train station. Forte Dei Marmi Antique Market, Lucca (Region) Every second Saturday and Sunday of the month, more than 45 traders from all over Italy travel to Piazza Dante, Forte Dei Marmi to be a part of the monthly antique market. The best of Italy’s antique collectors are the ones who take part in the market. Sculptures, art, collectibles, jewelry, furniture, books and artifacts are some of the items that are available on sale at bargain prices in this market. If antiques are your thing, this is a must visit place for you. In the end, you'll love Lucca as a place to visit. It became one of our favorite towns in all of Italy, and our most favorite in the North. Forte Dei Marmi Flea Market, Lucca (Region) Aside from being a busy beach town in the Lucca province, Forte Dei Marmi is a shopper’s paradise. The Forte Dei Marmi flea market opens every Wednesday from 8.00 to 14.30 at Piazza Macroni near the city center. Traders from all over Italy come over to display their wares. Everything under the sun, from crockery to branded designer wear, is available at this flea market for bargain prices. During summers when the tourist inflow increases, this market is open even on Sunday’s. This is the perfect place to shop, as you get the best of Italy. Mercato di Mezzo, Bologna The Quadrilatero area of Bologna has a long history of trade guilds since the Middle Ages. The main craft guilds of the city such as goldsmiths, butchers, fishermen, furriers, barbers and the painters, and Salaroli (specialists who salt cure meat) had their headquarters in this area. Most of the guilds located in the street once called Mercato di Mezzo, today known as via Rizzoli, at the beginning of the 20th century also moved in the heart of the Quadrilatero. Nowadays the Quadrilatero is the historical center area bounded by Piazza Maggiore, via Rizzoli, Piazza della Mercanzia, via Castiglione, via Farini, Piazza Galvani and Via dell’Archiginnasio. Jewelers, butchers, delicatessens, greengrocer’s, bakeries, shops with traditional cuisine and craft activities and other specialized trades are located in these streets. Most of these shops have preserved the historic architecture and furnishings, thus making themselves genuine artistic treasures. From the elegant Piazza Maggiore, the roads lead to the narrow alleys of the old medieval market overflowing with goods on the stands and full of noisy sellers and customers going by. Porta Nolana Fish Market, Naples Just a few blocks north of the port in the area around Piazza Nolana, under two towers of the old Aragonese gateway that stood guard over the ancient port entrance to the city, you’ll find Naples' best seafood market. And if you don’t mind crowds, chaos and confusion, this market is not to be missed. The vendors shout and sing about their offerings. Rarely frequented by tourists, Porta Nolana Market is where locals go in search of ingredients for their daily meals--clams, mussels, oysters, shrimp, squid, octopus, sea bass, sword fish, anchovies and sardines. And if you travel here for the Christmas season, you'll find the place inundated with locals buying fish for their Christmas Eve "seven fishes" feast--bacala (salted cod) and eel, for example. All this is the freshest seafood you'll find anywhere. Seafood isn’t all that's here... fresh fruits and vegetables, meats and cheeses, breads and desserts, and grocery items round out the market’s offerings. Cortonantiquaria, Cortona This top quality antiques fair is held annually, in late August and early September, in 17th century Palazzo Vagnotti, Cortona (a mecca for tourists ever since Under the Tuscan Sun hit the shelves), and has been going since 1963, making it Italy's oldest antiques show. Cortonantiquaria is now considered one of the most prestigious fairs in Europe and many dealers visit it, resulting in correspondingly high prices to go with the great number of tourists that flock to this oversold, but beautiful hilltown. The event is usually held between the last week in August through the first week in September. It's best to check for the specific schedule online. Mercato Centrale, Florence The Mercato Centrale was an authentic, big city, down and dirty food market before... but after a multimillion dollar renovation, it rivals the overpriced Eatalys around the world. Nowadays it's more of a tourist attraction, where locals go very early in the morning to get their food, and the tourists take over in late morning. They sell amazing things here... cheese, breads, meats, fish, etc.... but the fit and finish of the place caused the priced to go sky high. On the upper floor of this grand old market building, they created a modern, chic, industrial space that holds essentially a modern, chic, "foody" court full of bars, restaurants, pubs and the like. The outside of the market is surrounded by tacking clothing and tourist kitchy stalls. The prices are high, but it might be worth it for the urban foody to look into. Mercatino dell'Antiquariato, Venice You'll need to check your dates for this one, as you only get four chances a year, in April, June, mid September and Christmas. The three-day market is home to over 100 stalls with professional vendors selling everything from postcards to pearls and is held in Campo San Maurizio. It's renowned for having genuine antiques and not junk. Large, well organized and rich with treasures, professional dealers from all over Italy come to this market to sell their precious wares. Cheaper than antique shops, it's the place to find genuine antiques, statuary, books, paintings, glassware, ceramics and furnishings. This is the place to shop for an authentic piece of Italian history to bring back home and treasure. Mercatino dell'Antiquariato simply means Antiques Fair, be sure to go to the one in Campo San Maurizio which is the authentic market. Fiera Antiquaria, Arezzo Probably the biggest and most famous antiques market in the country is held in Arezzo, Tuscany, on the first weekend of the month. There are usually over 500 stalls spread over the Piazza Grande and the surrounding streets, which are manned (and visited) by people from all over Italy. You can buy everything there, from a pair of palazzo doors to a lace handkerchief. Some things are overpriced and it does get very crowded, especially during the summer, with an estimated average 20,000 visitors, but you may find a bargain and it will certainly be an experience. Arezzo is easy to reach: it is an hour by train from Florence and a couple of hours from Rome. The market is ten minutes from Arezzo Train Station and the square is surrounded by antique shops. If you love antiques, this might be your perfect destination. Mercato Coperto Santa Scolastica, Bari This is a recently built market on Viale Geiovanni XXIII that contains a mix of fruits, vegetables, fish, cheeses, breads, clothes, shoes and more. Although a lot of vendors complain about the additional costs incurred when compared to their old market space in another part of the city, there seems to be a growing following for this modern facility. It's in a neighborhood just south of the Bari Centrale rail station, but it is fully under cover and would be a great place to shop on a rainy morning. Eataly, Bari Not exactly a traditional Italian Market, Eataly is becoming a worldwide chain of mega Italian food spaces... part market, part food courts... all Italian. There are only two Eataly locations in the States--Chicago and New York. There is another in Istanbul, one in Dubai and also in Japan. But fittingly, I suppose, there are seven Eataly locations in Italy... and Bari has one of the largest right at the waterfront in the old convention center. The space is huge--86,000 square feet! We ate in the Eataly in Manhattan and found it over-marketed... way overpriced, very crowded and hard to locate specific items. There were very long waiting times if you wanted to sit in one of the various places to eat. Still, if you feel like checking our how Eataly looks in Italy, check out the one in Bari just across the harbor from the old city on Lungomare Starita just past the lighthouse... or check out the other Eatalys in Torino, Milano, Roma, Firenze, Genova and Bologna. I hoped you enjoyed this little tour of the markets of Italy... there are a multitude of possibilities. Most small towns have markets--but only on specific days. All larger towns have many types of markets... some for fish, some for clothes, some for fruits and veggies and others for books, leather, birds or flowers. Here's a LINK for a tool to help you plan your marketing voyage. Plan your trip around a tour of markets, or in the least, when staying in a central hub location, make a list of the markets in the region within driving distance. You'll be living the Italiana Buona Vita for sure... Ciao e buon viaggio! If you like this post,please tell your friends, share it and leave a link on your favorite travel site. Grazie! --Jerry Finzi You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr Copyright 2016, Jerry Finzi/Grand Voyage Italy, All rights reserved from Serious Eats, written by Daniel Gritzer Most pasta aficionados will tell you that the best way to do it is by finishing cooking the nearly-done pasta on the heat in its sauce with a little of the pasta-cooking water. According to that line of thinking, the starchy pasta water helps to bind and thicken the sauce, and in some cases—such as buttery or oily sauces—emulsifies it into a creamy, non-greasy coating.... (Click to read the entire article...)
That's right. For the second year in a row, Grand Voyage Italy is proud to announce its World's Most Disgusting Pizza Award--Il Disgustoso--to Pizza Hut for its Stuffed Garlic Knots Pizza. Last year, we gave our award to the Hut's Hot Dog Bites Pizza. This over-abundant pile of ancient, frozen dough and greasy toppings has 16 cheese-filled garlic knots stuck around the edge of a large, slick pizza. Add pepperoni for even more grease and calories and salt. The plain version contains 460 per slice, or 3,680 calories per pizza. Each slice puts 18 grams of fat, 1,120 mg of sodium and 54 grams of carbs into your gut. Povero appetito! Customers who have had this pizzaiolo monstrosity say it is one of the greasiest pizzas they've ever eaten. Wait a sec. I've made an error here and referred to whoever came up with this horrible idea as a "pizzaiolo". That term is meant for Master Pizza Chefs, not for industrial chemists that work for fast food chains. Forgive me for misspeaking. You see, the people who come up with such fast food fodder are called "food technologists", not chefs. While they might have a "food science" degree, their work is heavily chemistry based, with a minor in marketing. Getting back to the Stuffed Garlic Knots Pizza... As it turns out, the "knots" are really balls... and they tend to fall off easily. They are stuffed with factory grade mozzarella "cheese", but also with lots of air. Depending on the "skills" of the fast food preppers at your local shop, the cheese inside the balls might not be melted. And instead of the 16 "knots" advertised, depending on the location, you might get only 8. As for garlic, there isn't much--just a little bit of garlic salt in the spice/parmesan mixture tossed on top of the balls. The large size of the "garlic" balls makes a large pizza look like a medium. And a warning... although Pizza Hut touts this as a pizza having built-in "appetizers", don't eat the garlic knots first, or you won't have room for the main thing you came for... pizza. Well, that's using the word loosely. If you want pizza, either go to your favorite local joint or make one yourself at home. Here's How to Make a Basic Thin Crust Pizza. Along with our Shepherd's Pie each year, Lisa makes a wonderful Irish Soda Bread--one of the best I've ever tasted. Here is here recipe so you can put together the complete Irish feast...
Mama Lisa's Irish Soda Bread Ingredients
Directions
Irish soda bread is fantastic with some salted Irish butter (available at most supermarkets nowadays) or used as a scarpetta while eating your Shepherd's Pie. That's the way we Italians do it... Happy St. Patrick's Day! --Jerry Finzi You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr In Italy Easter is called Pasqua and is a time for celebration and breaking the Lenten fast. In Italy, spring comes early, the weather is wonderful and the scent of flowers blossoming are everywhere. Pasqua is a time for feasting with la famiglia. The Monday after Easter Sunday is a national holiday called Pasquetta (Little Easter), when most businesses close and workers spend the day at home with their family. There are many types of celebration sweet pane (breads) and savory torte (cakes or tarts) in Italy, many of which made from family recipes handed down from generation to generation--often hundreds of years old. Some are known all over Italy while others are regional or local traditional recipes. Here are some of the more popular treats with links to their traditional Italian recipes. If you need translations you can always cut and paste the text of each recipe into Google Translate. Enjoy... and Buona Pasqua! Nutella Peanut Butter French Toast We Italians often look for connections to St. Patrick so that we can take part in the great celebrations on St. Patrick's Day... the parades, the beer, the music, the dance and of course, the food. We'll even wear green on his day (perhaps with a little white and red too). Here are some reasons to connect St Patrick to Italians and Romans:
Ok, so maybe I'm stretching a bit here, but on St. Patrick's Day in our home, we go all out and become Irish. Sure, we might wear green (if we remember to), but the more obvious thing is the music and food. We've always loved traditional Irish music. In fact, as I write this, we are getting ready to go to a Chieftains concert tonight. Lisa and I have seen the Chieftains several times before, but this is our wee lad Lucas' first time. On St. Patrick's Day we play nothing but Irish and Celtic music. (Oh... that's right, both the Italians and the Irish play a type of bagpipe... another connection! Read our Bagpipe article HERE.) The other Irish tradition we have is very Italian, I think. Eating. Each year I make a great Shepherd's Pie while Lisa makes an Irish Soda Bread. For drink, it's Harp lager--not wine. All that's missing is the Blarney Stone. A couple of years ago we made a mistake and invited some friends over to share in our Irish feast, but the evening left us without any leftovers! We're now very selfish about our Shepherd's Pie.... locking the doors, turning the music up high, watching the St. Patrick's Day Parade saved on our TIVO and filling our bellies with the Irish starchy equivalent of pasta--potatoes! Here's my take on Shepherd's Pie... Babbo Finzi's Shepherd's Pie Use an larger size pie plate (we use Emile Henry's 11") or a casserole equivalent to a half size lasagna pan. Ingredients 1 1/2 pounds Lean Ground beef 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 medium onion, diced 1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup carrots, 1/2-inch dice 1 cup sliced celery, 1/4-inch dice 2 cloves garlic, sliced (not crushed) thinly 8 ounces diced tomatoes (Canned Italian style) 11 ounces canned corn (Green Giant Shoepeg is our favorite) 1 14 ounce can Italian flat beans (Del Monte Italian Cut, if canned) 1 cup beer (Harp Lager, etc.) 1 cup beef broth 2-3 bay leaves (remember to remove them before filling your pie!) 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper (40 cracks with a pepper mill) 1 tablespoon cornstarch (make a light paste by adding cold water to thicken, as needed) 3 pounds, peeled potatoes (Yukon Gold preferred) boil until tender 1 tablespoon margarine, Parkay Squeeze (substitute butter if cholesterol isn't an issue) 2 tablespoons salt 1/2 cup cheddar cheese, shredded (we use packaged Irish Dubliner) Directions
Putting The Shepherd's Pie Together & Baking
Remove from the oven and set aside to cool down a bit before serving. A fruity nut bread or Irish Soda bread goes great with this dish. A green salad is also a great side dish. We like to have a nice Irish lager, like Harp with it... Lucas like's having a glass of sparkling cider. Lá Shona Fhéile Pádraig!
(Happy St. Patrick's Day!) Click on the photo above to play the video of spaghetti being harvested I'm not a gullible man. Even as a boy, I wasn't one to believe everything I was told... I always asked questions. I read books, and my entire set of encyclopedia and my Atlas. I loved science and the arts. But as an 12 year old watching the old Jack Parr show in 1963, I tended to to go by the old adage, "Seeing is believing"--especially if you see it on TV! What I saw was a very legitimate sounding short documentary film with a very scholarly, British voice talking about the spaghetti harvest in Switzerland, but then mentioning the "tremendous scale of the Italian's... (harvest)" and the "vast spaghetti plantations in the Po valley". From that point on, until I was in my early twenties, I actually believed there was some sort of special tree or bush in Italy that produced some sort of spaghetti... fruit, pod or otherwise. It wasn't until I saw Jack Parr himself talking about the hoax on the Tonight Show in the early 1970s that I learned the embarrassing truth--a "truth" that I would argue about with my non-Italian friends growing up. Parr claimed they didn't get a single call about the segment--that people bought it hook, line and sinker. Ok, so maybe I was a bit gullible. But it was a very convincing documentary film, produced originally as a serious film for, of all things, a news show... and besides, I was only 12! On April 1, 1957--April F0ol's Day--the BBC television show Panorama aired the short "documentary" about the "spaghetti harvest" in Ticino, Switzerland. The film shows spaghetti trees ripe with long strands of spaghetti and a Swiss farming family harvesting by hand, putting the spaghetti into baskets and then carefully laying them out to dry in the "warm Alpine sun." Some viewers bought it entirely and called BBC to find out where they could buy some of the "real spaghetti". Many British gardeners wanted to know how to buy a spaghetti bush for their own garden. Others were very angry that a joke was portrayed as a serious subject on a real news program. Still others--like me--just tucked this into their knowledge banks, unquestioningly and carried it as a "truth" throughout their lives, being even more convinced every time they heard the expression "fresh pasta"... of course, that must be referring to the real stuff fresh picked from the trees! What did I know. Neither my Mother or Grandmother even made fresh spaghetti... only home made ravioli from time to time. I knew they didn't grow on trees! All I ever saw growing up was dried, boxed spaghetti--you know, the fake stuff. The following video gives a behind the scenes take on the Spaghetti Hoax story from a member of the Panorama production team who came up with the idea... The next video shows a further chapter of this hoax broadcast in 1967 in Britain explaining how the spaghetti crop was being ruined by a terrible pest--the spag-worm, or "troglodyte pasta" (of course, a troglodyte refers to a person so stupid because he lives in a cave). And then in 1978, San Giorgio Pasta produced a remake of the Spaghetti Hoax for one of their TV ads... And finally, cooking know-it-all, Martha Stewart (I'm not a fan) got into the act in 2009 with her own little spoof about her Spaghetti Bush, spago officinalis ("official string") trees. Well, I've had a lot more culinary education since being misled by that little April Fool's prank when I was young and impressionable: my Mom and Dad taught with every loving dish they put in front of me; Grandma taught me her authenticity; having home and studio in Manhattan for so many years where varied cuisines are around every corner also taught me; In my 30s, I finally learned how to cook from Julia Child, Craig Clairborne, Marcella Hazan, Mary Ann Esposito and Pierre Franey. I now make fresh pasta with my son, Lucas from time to time. And during our Voyage throughout Italy, I never saw a single strand of spaghetti on a bush, tree or vine. Ever. (I did look, just to be sure.) However, I have since learned that there are actually spaghetti alternatives that grow from Madre Terra. I even grew 2 foot long "snake" beans a few years ago that came pretty close. Here are a few veggie spaghetti alternatives... If you want to make your own, fresh "picked" veggie "spaghetti" at home, pick up a Premium Vegetable Spiralizer from Amazon. It's a lot easier than picking the spaghetti from the trees, collecting in baskets and spreading them out in the sun to dry...
(Damn you, Jack Parr!) --Jerry Finzi You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr There is an Italian specialty store called Altomonte's close to where we live, in a distant suburb of Philadelphia, that just opened a new 100,000 square foot store. We've been looking forward to their opening for six months or more. Their previous, smaller shop was our go-to shop for Italian imported cheese and cold cut delicacies like sausages, speck and guanciali. They even have their own version of Altamura bread. I also love their imported pastas, many from Puglia where my Dad was born.... although they are a bit expensive. But one offering I always thought was a bit strange... Tomato Pie. I just didn't get it. I'm not talking about the type of Tomato Pie made in the southern United States--the one shaped like an apple pie. This is more like a large Sicilian pizza, except without any cheese on top. But wait--it's not really pizza. At least not in my book. Being a north Jersey native, I never saw such an odd "pizza". At a quick glance, it reminds me of a Sicilian pizza in Manhattan--1" thick crust and rectangular, cut into square pieces when served. But that's where the similarity ends. Sicilian pizza may be thick, but it's hot and steamy inside. Tomato Pie is normally served room temperature and is anything but steamy, and the slices are much larger. The thick crust is more like a Focaccia--less crusty and more bread-like than pizza. To my taste, this is a heavy bread dough. The proportion of bread to topping is way off--too much bread, not enough topping and texture. The way Tomato Pies are topped off is very different, indeed. While a NY Sicilian pizza has lots of sauce with cheese on top (and a wide variety of optional toppings), a Tomato Pie is usually spartan--topped with a simple tasting tomato sauce. The crust is usually pre-baked first before adding the sauce (to ensure the bready crust stays thick). There are variations that include cheese, but the cheese is traditionally put on first with the sauce on top--similar to a Chicago style deep dish pizza, or in the form of grated parmesan sprinkled over the top. Getting back to Altomonte's for a moment... I was told months ago in their old shop that the new place would have tables and chairs and food that you could eat-in--including a wood fired pizza oven. I was really looking forward to stopping in for lunch once in a while, having a real Italian style thin crust, smokey wood baked pizza. The tables are there, but when visiting the new Altomonte's this weekend we were all disappointed to see a big sign over the pizza ovens saying "Tomato Pie", not "Pizza". In fact, they are only making Tomato Pies as far as we could tell. Not one pizza in sight. In fact, only steel commercial pizza ovens. No wood fired oven. What a let-down for this pizza-loving Voyager. And there they were... big, thick, bready, room-temperature sheets of bland Tomato Pie. Some were cut into squares for individual portions with a couple of slabs of mozzarella and basil on top-- a poor attempt to pass for a slice of pizza. Oh well, my dreams were dashed. I hoped for a taste of Italy within half an hour of home. What I got was a taste of Philadelphia. (To be honest, I rate Philly's Italian neighborhoods very low when compared to NY's Little Italy or Arthur Avenue for authenticity). You see, the Tomato Pie is a product with little real Italian heritage. It was invented by Italian-American immigrants in Philly, some claim that it represents Sicilian pizza--or Sfincione Palermitano, a type of thick focaccia. You might also see it called “gravy pie” (a reference to "Sunday Gravy"), "church pie", "square pizza", "red pizza", "granny pizza", "red pie", or simply "sheet pizza". Sfincione in Sicily is a different thing, however--different from both pizza and Tomato Pie. The dough for Sfincione is very different to start with... it is really a brioche made with fat and eggs where pizza and focaccia are made with neither. Sfincione can have generous toppings, where a Tomato Pie uses toppings sparingly. There can be cherry tomatoes or sliced tomatoes, sweet or hot chili peppers, lots of cheese (often loads of caciocavallo) and onions or anchovies. A traditional finish to a Sfincione is to top it off with oregano flavored bread crumbs for a great crunch on top. Sadly, Tomato Pie typically has just sauce and maybe a sprinkling of grated Parmesan cheese. Of course, if you go into Philadephia's Italian neighborhoods, there will be variations... some with more topping choices, some using more of a focaccia or pizza dough rather than a brioche, some thinner and some thicker. Some even serve it hot. But in most cases, it's a Philly thing--not like Sfincione at all. Here's a very authentic recipe I found for Sfincione: You need a large half sheet pan, or a large circular rimmed pan for this recipe. For the dough 2-3 cups bread flour 2 tablespoons active yeast 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 - 1/4 cup water at 115F 1 - 1/2 tablespoons lard (salted butter as substitute) 1 egg, beaten For the sauce 1 large Vidalia or similar sweet onion, cut into thin half moons 28 ounce can crushed tomatoes (I recommend Tuttorosso brand) small jar, imported anchovies in oil 1 teaspoon sugar 1 - 1/2 cups grated (with 1/4 holes) caciocavallo cheese (substitute sharp provolone) 1 - 1/2 cups bread crumbs 2 tablespoons Oregano (for mixing with bread crumbs) Extra virgin olive oil Making the Dough
Prepare the sauce
Putting the Sfincione together After the dough has finished its rise in the pan, take the remaining anchovies and spread them scattered across the the dough. Scatter the grated caciocavallo across the dough. Cover the entire pan with about half of the onion/tomato sauce--you can be the judge of how saucy you want it. Mix the oregano with the bread crumbs, then sprinkle all over the top of your Sfincione. Place in your preheated oven at 400° F on the middle rack and bake for 20 minutes, or until the bottom side of your crust is golden brown. You can then turn your oven to grill for 2-3 minutes (keep an eye on it to prevent burning!) to crisp the top. Let cool a few minutes before slicing into squares for serving. Try a Nero d'Avola Sicilian wine with your Sfincione... In my opinion, a lot tastier and authentic than a Philadelphia Tomato Pie. Buon Appetito! --Jerry Finzi You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr Want to know the real in-s and out of the olive oil business? Want to know about the good guys versus the bad? How fake is the olive oil we buy here in the United States anyway? Well, get a copy of Extra Virginity and find out from a man who delved deeply into the slick, slippery world of olive oil. Mueller's investigative reporting on the olive oil industry started back in 2007 in The New Yorker's article Slippery Business: The Trade in Adulterated Olive Oil. He goes even deeper into the subject in Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil, his first book on the subject. Mueller applauds the saints of the trade and blatantly points an accusing finger at the demons who lie, cheat and fake their way into making huge profits on phony oil. As you read, you will also learn how olive oil--especially Extra Virgin Olive Oil--is made and who it should be protected. Buy the book on AMAZON. Click the link to read our article on olive oil:
All About Italian Olive Oil: The Good, the Bad and the Amazing...
It has a perfect amount of friendly acidity that would pair with both pastas and meat dishes. It's made from a Sicilian Frappato grape that apparently loves growing in the Pugliese sunshine and rocky soils. It's a little more than we like to pay but well worth it. In fact, this $20 bottle is far better than most $50 bottles we've had. Highly recommended.
--Jerry Finzi You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr The olive oil is produced from a tree which is sacred. It gives wood for fire, for heat. It gives the olive oil which is for condiment, for cooking, but also for light, you know, for oil lamps, and the olives to eat, which is practically complete. --Antonio Carluccio, chef I've collected a series of short videos that illustrate how olive oil is grown, harvested and turned into extra virgin olive oil. In the first video below, a a small scale fattoria (farm with a small production facility) in the mountains of Liguria is shown harvesting their olives on terraced slopes by climbing up into the trees and raking the olives onto large nets. The olive oil production is done my fairly small farm machinery. In the next video, there is a broader view of larger scale, modern olive oil production where trees are harvested by machines that shake the olives loose and collect them in one step... The next video is a look at the Brizi olive oil factory in Montefalco, Umbria which makes extra virgin olive oil using the traditional "cold pressed" method with modern machinery. Note at the end of the video that the spent, dried cardboard-looking paste sheets are ground up to be sent to another facility which extracts a lesser grade olive oil from them. It's a good illustration of where the supermarket variety, tasteless olive oil might come from. The next shows a simple approach to olives and the oil produced... "We don't pick olives for profit... we do it because we have a certain love for these things." Hard world for the a couple of hundred gallons of oil... The final video illustrates the amazing size and age of the olive trees in Puglia in Southern Italy. As it turns out, today there are over 60 million olive threes in Puglia with the oldest trees being carbon dated to well over 200 years old. And yes, they still produce olives. |
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