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Sorrento is one of the most beautiful places in southern Italy with it's high perch overlooking the bay of Naples with the best view of Mount Vesuvius. The historic center of town is beautiful most days of the year, but it's during the Christmas season that the place takes on a really magical aire.
Starting in late November, the Christmas tree in Piazza Tasso is lit which leads off the celebrations which include a Christmas Treasure Hunt, weekend street performances, concerts in churches and other venues in all sorts of musical genres and Villaggio di Babbo Natale (Santa’s Village) at Villa Fiorentino.
If you're planning to visit, you might consider their Capodanno (New Year’s Eve) party with pulsing music rocking in Piazza Tasso, followed by a fireworks display down at the port.
Starting in late November, the Christmas tree in Piazza Tasso is lit which leads off the celebrations which include a Christmas Treasure Hunt, weekend street performances, concerts in churches and other venues in all sorts of musical genres and Villaggio di Babbo Natale (Santa’s Village) at Villa Fiorentino.
If you're planning to visit, you might consider their Capodanno (New Year’s Eve) party with pulsing music rocking in Piazza Tasso, followed by a fireworks display down at the port.
Some highlights:
19 December 2016: Lauro Square from 9:30 am to 12:00 pm, "Papers Christmas"
20-21 December 2016: Campo Italia Soccer tournament “Christmas Stars”
Piazza Tasso 6pm, Christmas Concert
Basilica di S.Antonino 5 pm, Christmas Choir
22 December 2016: Church of SS. Rosario 6:30 pm, Traditional songs
23 December 2016: Church of Lourdes 7:00 pm, Carlo Morelli Gospel Choir
24 December 2016: Neapolitan fried pizza at Pizzeria Da Gigino; Street Animation
25 December 2016: Street Animation; Christmas Treasure Hunt
26 December 2016: Casarlano from 6 pm to 20 pm, Living Nativity; Cattedrale Sorrento 7:30 pm, Christmas concert; Christmas Treasure Hunt
27 December 2016: Christmas Treasure Hunt; Chiesa SS. Rosario 7 pm, Concert “Christmas Melodies”
28 December 2016: Teatro Tasso ore 7 pm (free), Nino Buonocore
29 December 2016: Teatro Armida, Concert
31 December 2016: Historical center, 10 am to 9 pm, Street entertainment; Teatro Tasso 11:30 am, New Year’s Concert; Piazza Tasso 6 pm, “Ciuccio di Fuoco” Fireworks;
Piazza Tasso from 11 pm to 2 am, New Year party/dancing,music
After Midnight, 1 January 2016: Port of Sorrento Fireworks
During the month of January: Many weekend concerts, street performances and events.
When we visited Sorrento, our impression was a place for the Oh-so-Chic, with expensive shops, gourmet ristoranti, over-priced hotels and perfectly tailored gardens. Little did we know that right in the heart of this tourist Mecca with amazing views of Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius was an example of nature taking over what Man had built before...
The Valli dei Mulini (Vallone dei Mulini, singular) are actually two deep gorges where abandoned mill buildings from centuries past have been taken over by Madre Natura and turned into a nature preserves, often looking like they deserve to be in one of the Lord of the Rings stories.
The Valli dei Mulini (Vallone dei Mulini, singular) are actually two deep gorges where abandoned mill buildings from centuries past have been taken over by Madre Natura and turned into a nature preserves, often looking like they deserve to be in one of the Lord of the Rings stories.
The abandoned mills in Sorrento are in an ancient gorge formed 35,000 years ago during an explosive volcanic eruption. You can easily find the valley adjacent to Via Fuorimura, just behind Piazza Tasso, and can be visited on foot. One of the hiden gems of Sorrento, this site is known for the variety of unique plants and ferns, growing in their own microclimate--a shady, moist evironment clinging to both the abandoned mill buildings and structures and the native tufa rock.
Further east, as the road comes upward from Naples toward the Amalfi Coast (just east of the town of Gragnano), there are abandoned mills alongside the Via del Presepe, winding through its millstream gorge. The Via del Presepe is a very narrow, cobblestone paved road, so don't drive it with an overly wide vehicle.
Further east, as the road comes upward from Naples toward the Amalfi Coast (just east of the town of Gragnano), there are abandoned mills alongside the Via del Presepe, winding through its millstream gorge. The Via del Presepe is a very narrow, cobblestone paved road, so don't drive it with an overly wide vehicle.
 |  One of the old Gragnano mills |
The view from Sorrento's Parco Ibsen For more than 700 years the mills in these unique valleys produced flour, reaching a peak in the 18th century when producing over a million bushels of wheat flour each year. They utilized water from the Vernotico River for power. During times of drought, they filled tall towers with water for use by the people living in the surrounding Naples region. In the 10th century, a sawmill was also in operation. Inevitably, they became unprofitable and in the 1940’s the mills became overgrown and abandoned.
Today, there are walking tours of the Vallone in Sorrento and you can easily drive streamside to see the mills near Gragnano. Bring your cameras, water colors and leaf folios...
--Jerry Finzi
Today, there are walking tours of the Vallone in Sorrento and you can easily drive streamside to see the mills near Gragnano. Bring your cameras, water colors and leaf folios...
--Jerry Finzi
Doric columns When I was planning the southern leg of our Voyage through Italy, one of the pins on my Google Earth map was at Paestum, an archeological site in Campania about 25 miles south of Salerno and the Amalfi Coast on the Tyrrhenian Sea. We opted to leave Salerno and drive a more direct route to the rocky villages of Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa--villages that remind me of Machu Picchu clinging to rocky precipices. If we had driven to Paestum first, we would have had a more arduous, long mountainous drive to bring us toward Basilicata and Puglia.
In hindsight, I wish we had at least done an early morning side trip to Paestum. It's located in the part of southern Italy known as Magna Graecia, which used to be settled by the Greeks long before the Roman Empire. The ruins of Paestum are famous for their three Greek temples with massive, intact Doric columns dating from about 600 to 450 BC. All structures are built from the local bedrock--travertine. Also intact are the foundation walls of many parts of the ancient city, an amphitheater and paved roads as well preserved as the Appian Way in Rome.
In hindsight, I wish we had at least done an early morning side trip to Paestum. It's located in the part of southern Italy known as Magna Graecia, which used to be settled by the Greeks long before the Roman Empire. The ruins of Paestum are famous for their three Greek temples with massive, intact Doric columns dating from about 600 to 450 BC. All structures are built from the local bedrock--travertine. Also intact are the foundation walls of many parts of the ancient city, an amphitheater and paved roads as well preserved as the Appian Way in Rome.
Both large temples at the site are dedicated to the goddess Hera
Nearby Agropoli, an ancient Greek port city The site is open to the public, and there is a modern national museum within it, which also contains the finds from the associated Greek site of Foce del Sele. Founded by Greek colonists under the name of Poseidonia, it was eventually conquered by the local Lucanians and later the Romans. It has been known by several names... Lucanians dubbed it Paistos, with Pesto being another variation. The Romans changed it later on to Paestum. During early Christian times, the town was ruled by a Bishop but then abandoned and forgotten by the Middle Ages. It was rediscovered in the 18th century.
The modern town of Paestum, just south of the archaeological site, is a popular seaside resort, with long sandy beaches where many Italians spend their Ferragosto summer holiday in the month of August. However, if you want to relax and enjoy the flavors of this region, make your hub in the beautiful port town of Agropoli... a seaport just to the south, with its town hugging the cliffs above. The town is definitely worth more than just an overnight stay. Some might call it a romantic getaway.
Another important aspect of the area is the raising of buffalo to produce the famous mozzarella di bufala. You may visit local farms to see the prized buffalo being massaged and pampered, as well as see how the fresh cheese is made.
The modern town of Paestum, just south of the archaeological site, is a popular seaside resort, with long sandy beaches where many Italians spend their Ferragosto summer holiday in the month of August. However, if you want to relax and enjoy the flavors of this region, make your hub in the beautiful port town of Agropoli... a seaport just to the south, with its town hugging the cliffs above. The town is definitely worth more than just an overnight stay. Some might call it a romantic getaway.
Another important aspect of the area is the raising of buffalo to produce the famous mozzarella di bufala. You may visit local farms to see the prized buffalo being massaged and pampered, as well as see how the fresh cheese is made.
These magnificent beasts produce amazing mozzarella
 Heracles kills Alcyoneus |  Fresco |
Sarcophagus panels
Aerial view of the site
| If you go: By Train Catch a train from Salerno or Naples to Paestum station. Buy a two-way tick if you need to return. I have read that the ticket machines in the Paestum station rarely work. By Boat There are ferrys during summer months from Salerno, Naples, Positano, Amalfi By Bus Buses run throughout the Campania regions, especially in Avellino province, picking locals up for various points and taking them to the site for €9 return. Paestum Tickets You can buy separate tickets for the archaeological site and the museum but if you're visiting both it is cheaper to purchase a combined ticket (about €6.50). There are various categories of discount. This is an Italian national monuments. Check for free entry for seniors and handicapped. The open air site is open daily; the museum is closed on the first and third Mondays of each month. |  Venus  Minotaur |
CLICK ON IMAGE BELOW TO PLAY THE VIDEO...
Funiculì, funiculà was written in 1880 by Luigi Denza. The text of the song was inspired by the opening of the first cable car built in 1879, to reach the top of Mount Vesuvius. The song describes the advantages offered by the new means of transport, which allows tourists to climb, without effort, to admire the view from the summit of the ancient volcano.
Over time, the melody became famous all over the world.
Click HERE for more on Italian funiculars.
Over time, the melody became famous all over the world.
Click HERE for more on Italian funiculars.
FIat 1400 taxi If you are going to the Isle of Capri while visiting Campagnia--Naples or the Amalfi Coast--then you might want to feel what film stars feel like and take a taxi ride around the island. But these aren't just any taxis... these are Capri taxis. Some are as long as limos, some like vans and others are vintage custom Italian vehicles--all with their roofs cut off to enjoy the sun. And if the combination of sun and dizzying views over the cliff edge get you a bit light headed, ask the driver to roll out the canopy over your head to help keep your cool.
These unique looking, top-chopped, sun-worshiping taxis first appeared on Capri in the 1930s. They were mostly Fiat convertibles, or custom made convertibles with their roofs cut off. By the 1950's, they'd become a welcoming symbol for the chic isle, with some drivers becoming as well known as the film stars they transported... Sophia Loren, Princess Margaret and Brigitte Bardot. Later on, Jackie Onassis and her hubbie-to-be Aristotle Onassis brought even more attention to them. One driver even proved his loyalty when Onassis left wallet on his yacht, the driver paid for their meal. This is the stuff legends are made out of--at least in chic Capri. By the seventies, finding replacement parts for the colorful canopy frilled taxis became more difficult and today only a handful of these vintage vehicles can be hired--for higher than normal fees. There are hotels that use vintage taxis to transport their guests from the harbor to their hotel. Still, the modern breed of unique vehicles offer the same sun and wind filled adventurous ride while passengers soak in the sights along their way...
 |  |
There are many taxis to pick from at the taxi parking areas as you get off the ferry or you can book ahead online to plan a tour. Most do a circumnavigation of the island, giving you all the best views from the magnificent curvy roads. You can choose from the less expensive van or sedan type or, if you can find one and can afford it, choose to ride in a 1950s or 60s era classic vehicle. Circumnavigation tours around the island range from around $100 to $200 dollars, depending on the vehicle and the length of your tour. To go from Marina Grande up the mountain to the Piazzetta in Capri town, a 10 minute taxi ride will cost you about $22 (whereas the Funicular rail car will cost about $3). It might well be worth splurging on the ride for a truly unique experience. (I'd still take the funicular for that experience also!)
A Fiat 1600 Taxi and a wedding party
Now I for one would love to be at the wheel while driving the twisty roads of Capri, as I did on the Amalfi Coast. (Click HERE for Amalfi Coast Drive: Part Paradise - Part Hell). Voyagers to Capri should be aware that, while renting a car is possible in Capri, it's not recommended. The rental car rates in Capri are much higher than rates in Italy, mainly because the Capri government itself wants to discourage excess car traffic. The situation is so bad that in the busiest months travel by car is restricted to residents only! (In my opinion, they should also do this along the Amalfi Coast during the high season). So when visiting Capri, relax and let someone else do the driving for you. Besides these taxis, there are other local taxi services you can call by phone, taxi stands, cheap buses, the famous funicular in Capri town, and of course, the always available and pleasant water taxis and ferries.
We drove a Fiat 500L in Italy, but not like this one: The new Capri Tiberio 500L Capri Taxi Special, named after Emperor Tiberius, who used Capri for his summer palace.
photo by Alessia Pignetti
The wonderful photo above, by Alessia Pignetti, shows her grandmother using the iconic o'panar, a basket or bucket lift used to bring groceries up to apartments in and around the Naples area. Old apartments MINUS elevators PLUS a bucket PLUS some rope EQUALS Italian Ingenuity at its best. Italians have all sorts of roadblocks in their way as they live their Vita Bella, but still find ways to get around their problems. That's being a true, furbo Italian!
The o'panar (also called a Panaro - bread basket) is an especially great tool for elderly nonnas, living in an un-airconditioned top floor apartment, in the heat of the City of Naples or Sorrento or other towns in Campania. Their legs perhaps failing from a lifetime of walking the many hills in their environment, o'panar is used daily to lift up deliveries of milk, cheese and eggs, produce, a fast food delivery, or other supplies brought to them by their never-too-far-away offspring. You can imagine how dangerous it can be when Nonna loads a couple of sharp knives or scissors into the bucket to send down to l'arrontino--the knife-sharpener--on his weekly visits! Instead of traditional wicker baskets, many nowadays use plastic buckets, but in a bright blue color--perhaps for visibility so that unaware passersby on the street below can see it coming down (often just dropped) and avoid being smashed in their testa.
So, if you're even in Campania visiting Naples or Sorrento or Salerno... look up, or should I say, heads up!
--Jerry Finzi
Please, stop by our SURVEY and spend 60 seconds telling us how we could make our blog better! Grazie!
Copyright, 2016, Jerry Finzi/Grand Voyage Italy - All rights reserved
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The o'panar (also called a Panaro - bread basket) is an especially great tool for elderly nonnas, living in an un-airconditioned top floor apartment, in the heat of the City of Naples or Sorrento or other towns in Campania. Their legs perhaps failing from a lifetime of walking the many hills in their environment, o'panar is used daily to lift up deliveries of milk, cheese and eggs, produce, a fast food delivery, or other supplies brought to them by their never-too-far-away offspring. You can imagine how dangerous it can be when Nonna loads a couple of sharp knives or scissors into the bucket to send down to l'arrontino--the knife-sharpener--on his weekly visits! Instead of traditional wicker baskets, many nowadays use plastic buckets, but in a bright blue color--perhaps for visibility so that unaware passersby on the street below can see it coming down (often just dropped) and avoid being smashed in their testa.
So, if you're even in Campania visiting Naples or Sorrento or Salerno... look up, or should I say, heads up!
--Jerry Finzi
Please, stop by our SURVEY and spend 60 seconds telling us how we could make our blog better! Grazie!
Copyright, 2016, Jerry Finzi/Grand Voyage Italy - All rights reserved
You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on:
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 O'Panar is a great way to get take-out deliveries up to the fifth floor |  photo by Diego Menna |
photo by Finzi, copyright 2014
from wanderingitaly.com
Pompeii Map & Travel Guide
Visit one of the top Roman Attractions in Italy
Pompeii, and to some extent its sister site Herculaneum, are notable for being destroyed by a particularly ferocious eruption of Vesuvius. Time stopped at that very moment. The archaeological site became a vast museum of that moment in time, which is why it is so compelling--and why archaeologists have learned so much from the ruins of Pompeii.
Pompeii is one of the top Roman era attractions in Italy. It's also pretty easy to get to. The main train line, the FS from Naples, and the private line, the Circumvesuviana, both arrive in the modern Pompei, albeit at different stations, as you see on our Pompeii map below.
As you can see from the map, the ancient town of Pompeii to the north of the modern Pompei is not so much smaller than the modern town that's grown up around it. You can take quite a long time exploring it--the whole city is at your feet....
(CLICK HERE TO READ THE ENTIRE ARTICLE AND SEE THE MAPS)
Pompeii Map & Travel Guide
Visit one of the top Roman Attractions in Italy
Pompeii, and to some extent its sister site Herculaneum, are notable for being destroyed by a particularly ferocious eruption of Vesuvius. Time stopped at that very moment. The archaeological site became a vast museum of that moment in time, which is why it is so compelling--and why archaeologists have learned so much from the ruins of Pompeii.
Pompeii is one of the top Roman era attractions in Italy. It's also pretty easy to get to. The main train line, the FS from Naples, and the private line, the Circumvesuviana, both arrive in the modern Pompei, albeit at different stations, as you see on our Pompeii map below.
As you can see from the map, the ancient town of Pompeii to the north of the modern Pompei is not so much smaller than the modern town that's grown up around it. You can take quite a long time exploring it--the whole city is at your feet....
(CLICK HERE TO READ THE ENTIRE ARTICLE AND SEE THE MAPS)
Click the video below to watch
Take a funny look at the challenging driving on the Amalfi Coast in this video Lisa shot while heading toward Salerno and onward toward the mountains of Basilicata.
The Amalfi Coast Road is curvy and very narrow with the cliff on one side and nothing but air and sea on the other. When researching the Amalfi Coast Road, I read that the buses are specially made--narrower than normal buses. Don't you believe it! They are every bit as wide as large tour buses in the States. When driving the Coast Road you with share the road with them... along with center-lane scooters and motorcycles (the line in the middle IS their lane it seems), cyclists (often going faster than you), teeny cars hugging your butt so close you can't see them in your mirrors, and huge, double tandem 18 wheelers!
And there are more than a few pazzo Italian drivers passing on blind curves (often with a quick beep beep of their horn as they come around) and crossing over the line. Another danger is cars, trucks and buses parking on the side of a narrow road (most of Amalfi is a no parking zone along the roadside) that you'll have to get around while cars are coming toward you. In some places they are starting to introduce alternating stop lights, giving the east and west bound traffic each their turn on especially narrow stretches. But don't trust this too much... Italians are notorious for ignoring both traffic laws, signs and lights.
Enjoy this video and then if you like, check out the rest of our experiences during our three week Voyage through Italy. As for driving the Amalfi Coast Road... I did it! I don't have a medal to prove it, but I surely deserve one! The driving was intense--more than you can imagine--but the pleasure of seeing the beauty all around the Coast Road was like living in a dream...
Enjoy the video...
The Amalfi Coast Road is curvy and very narrow with the cliff on one side and nothing but air and sea on the other. When researching the Amalfi Coast Road, I read that the buses are specially made--narrower than normal buses. Don't you believe it! They are every bit as wide as large tour buses in the States. When driving the Coast Road you with share the road with them... along with center-lane scooters and motorcycles (the line in the middle IS their lane it seems), cyclists (often going faster than you), teeny cars hugging your butt so close you can't see them in your mirrors, and huge, double tandem 18 wheelers!
And there are more than a few pazzo Italian drivers passing on blind curves (often with a quick beep beep of their horn as they come around) and crossing over the line. Another danger is cars, trucks and buses parking on the side of a narrow road (most of Amalfi is a no parking zone along the roadside) that you'll have to get around while cars are coming toward you. In some places they are starting to introduce alternating stop lights, giving the east and west bound traffic each their turn on especially narrow stretches. But don't trust this too much... Italians are notorious for ignoring both traffic laws, signs and lights.
Enjoy this video and then if you like, check out the rest of our experiences during our three week Voyage through Italy. As for driving the Amalfi Coast Road... I did it! I don't have a medal to prove it, but I surely deserve one! The driving was intense--more than you can imagine--but the pleasure of seeing the beauty all around the Coast Road was like living in a dream...
Enjoy the video...
For more on Amalfi Coast area and driving, read these posts:
Visiting Pompeii: A Road Too Far
Amalfi Coast Drive: Part Paradise - Part Hell
Hertz Really Hurtz and the Sewer the is Naples: Renting a Car in Italy
Ok, Hold Your Breath, 'Cause this is Really Gonna HERTZ! Renting cars in Italy
--Jerry Finzi
You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on:
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Visiting Pompeii: A Road Too Far
Amalfi Coast Drive: Part Paradise - Part Hell
Hertz Really Hurtz and the Sewer the is Naples: Renting a Car in Italy
Ok, Hold Your Breath, 'Cause this is Really Gonna HERTZ! Renting cars in Italy
--Jerry Finzi
You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on:
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StumbleUpon
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In December, Sorrento’s outdoor market stalls groan beneath the weight of sumptuous food hampers, or stand ablaze with shiny gift-wrapped boxes of delicious panettone (Italian Christmas cake). Nip into the town’s cute little churches and you’ll find enchanting presepi – elaborate nativity scenes wrought with antique figurines, a big tradition of the Campania region. Outside, delicate lights fizz up the trunks of the palm trees and stretch out to illuminate every arcing frond. Excited locals mill about, and the whole town hums with colour and life. (CLICK HERE to read the entire article...)
I found this beautiful video profiling the Solimene Ceramics Factory on the Amalfi Coast in the seaside town of Vietri sul Mare. Aside from Solimene producing some of the most beautiful ceramics from Vietri, the building--although tired--is a Mid-Century Modern architectural gem. Read about our visit to this unique ceramics factor, the other nearby ceramics shops and our drive on the Amalfi Coast here.
Enjoy the video...
Enjoy the video...
If you enjoyed this video... send us some nice Italian cheese. Perhaps an aged sheep's milk caciocavallo. ....Ok, then just LIKE us and SHARE with your friends. Ciao!
Found in the Cappella Sansevero in Naples, this wonderful sculpture's most magnificent feature is the fish net... yes, carved by a Master's hand in marble. Amazing.
From This Day in History, The History Channel:
At noon on August 24, 79 A.D., the pleasure and prosperity of Pompeii came to an end when the peak of Mount Vesuvius exploded, propelling a 10-mile mushroom cloud of ash and pumice into the stratosphere. For the next 12 hours, volcanic ash and a hail of pumice stones up to 3 inches in diameter showered Pompeii, forcing the city’s occupants to flee in terror. Some 2,000 people stayed in Pompeii, holed up in cellars or stone structures, hoping to wait out the eruption.
Mount Vesuvius erupted after centuries of dormancy, which when you think about it, means that the people of the day had no way of knowing that their neighboring mountain was even a volcano. Mount When Vesuvius erupted it devastated the prosperous Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum and killed thousands. The cities, buried under a thick layer of volcanic material and mud, were never rebuilt and largely forgotten in the course of history. In the 18th century, Pompeii and Herculaneum were rediscovered and excavated, providing an unprecedented archaeological record of the everyday life of an ancient civilization, startlingly preserved in sudden death.
At noon on August 24, 79 A.D., the pleasure and prosperity of Pompeii came to an end when the peak of Mount Vesuvius exploded, propelling a 10-mile mushroom cloud of ash and pumice into the stratosphere. For the next 12 hours, volcanic ash and a hail of pumice stones up to 3 inches in diameter showered Pompeii, forcing the city’s occupants to flee in terror. Some 2,000 people stayed in Pompeii, holed up in cellars or stone structures, hoping to wait out the eruption.
Mount Vesuvius erupted after centuries of dormancy, which when you think about it, means that the people of the day had no way of knowing that their neighboring mountain was even a volcano. Mount When Vesuvius erupted it devastated the prosperous Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum and killed thousands. The cities, buried under a thick layer of volcanic material and mud, were never rebuilt and largely forgotten in the course of history. In the 18th century, Pompeii and Herculaneum were rediscovered and excavated, providing an unprecedented archaeological record of the everyday life of an ancient civilization, startlingly preserved in sudden death.
Vesuvius today... note the ridge in the rear. That's the remains of the original slopes of Vesuvius before it blew its top in 74 AD.
The ancient cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum thrived near the base of Mount Vesuvius at the Bay of Naples. In the time of the early Roman Empire, 20,000 people lived in Pompeii, including merchants, manufacturers, and farmers who exploited the rich soil of the region with numerous vineyards and orchards. None suspected that the black fertile earth was the legacy of earlier eruptions of Mount Vesuvius. Herculaneum was a city of 5,000 and a favorite summer destination for rich Romans. Named for the mythic hero Hercules, Herculaneum housed opulent villas and grand Roman baths. Gambling artifacts found in Herculaneum and a brothel unearthed in Pompeii attest to the decadent nature of the cities. There were smaller resort communities in the area as well, such as the quiet little town of Stabiae.
A westerly wind protected Herculaneum from the initial stage of the eruption, but then a giant cloud of hot ash and gas surged down the western flank of Vesuvius, engulfing the city and burning or asphyxiating all who remained. This lethal cloud was followed by a flood of volcanic mud and rock, burying the city.
The people who remained in Pompeii were killed on the morning of August 25 when a cloud of toxic gas poured into the city, suffocating all that remained. A flow of rock and ash followed, collapsing roofs and walls and burying the dead.
Much of what we know about the eruption comes from an account by Pliny the Younger, who was staying west along the Bay of Naples when Vesuvius exploded. In two letters to the historian Tacitus, he told of how “people covered their heads with pillows, the only defense against a shower of stones,” and of how “a dark and horrible cloud charged with combustible matter suddenly broke and set forth. Some bewailed their own fate. Others prayed to die.” Pliny, only 17 at the time, escaped the catastrophe and later became a noted Roman writer and administrator. His uncle, Pliny the Elder, was less lucky. Pliny the Elder, a celebrated naturalist, at the time of the eruption was the commander of the Roman fleet in the Bay of Naples. After Vesuvius exploded, he took his boats across the bay to Stabiae, to investigate the eruption and reassure terrified citizens. After going ashore, he was overcome by toxic gas and died.
According to Pliny the Younger’s account, the eruption lasted 18 hours. Pompeii was buried under 14 to 17 feet of ash and pumice, and the nearby seacoast was drastically changed. Herculaneum was buried under more than 60 feet of mud and volcanic material. Some residents of Pompeii later returned to dig out their destroyed homes and salvage their valuables, but many treasures were left and then forgotten.
In the 18th century, a well digger unearthed a marble statue on the site of Herculaneum. The local government excavated some other valuable art objects, but the project was abandoned. In 1748, a farmer found traces of Pompeii beneath his vineyard. Since then, excavations have gone on nearly without interruption until the present. In 1927, the Italian government resumed the excavation of Herculaneum, retrieving numerous art treasures, including bronze and marble statues and paintings.
A westerly wind protected Herculaneum from the initial stage of the eruption, but then a giant cloud of hot ash and gas surged down the western flank of Vesuvius, engulfing the city and burning or asphyxiating all who remained. This lethal cloud was followed by a flood of volcanic mud and rock, burying the city.
The people who remained in Pompeii were killed on the morning of August 25 when a cloud of toxic gas poured into the city, suffocating all that remained. A flow of rock and ash followed, collapsing roofs and walls and burying the dead.
Much of what we know about the eruption comes from an account by Pliny the Younger, who was staying west along the Bay of Naples when Vesuvius exploded. In two letters to the historian Tacitus, he told of how “people covered their heads with pillows, the only defense against a shower of stones,” and of how “a dark and horrible cloud charged with combustible matter suddenly broke and set forth. Some bewailed their own fate. Others prayed to die.” Pliny, only 17 at the time, escaped the catastrophe and later became a noted Roman writer and administrator. His uncle, Pliny the Elder, was less lucky. Pliny the Elder, a celebrated naturalist, at the time of the eruption was the commander of the Roman fleet in the Bay of Naples. After Vesuvius exploded, he took his boats across the bay to Stabiae, to investigate the eruption and reassure terrified citizens. After going ashore, he was overcome by toxic gas and died.
According to Pliny the Younger’s account, the eruption lasted 18 hours. Pompeii was buried under 14 to 17 feet of ash and pumice, and the nearby seacoast was drastically changed. Herculaneum was buried under more than 60 feet of mud and volcanic material. Some residents of Pompeii later returned to dig out their destroyed homes and salvage their valuables, but many treasures were left and then forgotten.
In the 18th century, a well digger unearthed a marble statue on the site of Herculaneum. The local government excavated some other valuable art objects, but the project was abandoned. In 1748, a farmer found traces of Pompeii beneath his vineyard. Since then, excavations have gone on nearly without interruption until the present. In 1927, the Italian government resumed the excavation of Herculaneum, retrieving numerous art treasures, including bronze and marble statues and paintings.
Lucas' Photo of a casting of one of Pompeii's victims
Vesuvius erupting in 1944 The remains of 2,000 men, women, and children were found at Pompeii. After perishing from asphyxiation, their bodies were covered with ash that hardened and preserved the outline of their bodies. Later, their bodies decomposed to skeletal remains, leaving a kind of plaster mold behind. Archaeologists who found these molds filled the hollows with plaster, revealing in grim detail the death pose of the victims of Vesuvius. The rest of the city is likewise frozen in time, and ordinary objects that tell the story of everyday life in Pompeii are as valuable to archaeologists as the great unearthed statues and frescoes. It was not until 1982 that the first human remains were found at Herculaneum, and these hundreds of skeletons bear ghastly burn marks that testifies to horrifying deaths.
Today, Mount Vesuvius is the only active volcano on the European mainland. Its last eruption was in 1944 and its last major eruption was in 1631. Another eruption is expected in the near future, would could be devastating for the 700,000 people who live in the “death zones” around Vesuvius.
Today, Mount Vesuvius is the only active volcano on the European mainland. Its last eruption was in 1944 and its last major eruption was in 1631. Another eruption is expected in the near future, would could be devastating for the 700,000 people who live in the “death zones” around Vesuvius.
Vesuvio as we saw it while driving up through the Amalfi mountain pass.
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They sure make renting a car in Italy look sexy, don't they?
The Naples reality. And no, those aren't awaiting rental cars.
Hertz in Italy is not the same Hertz in the States. They are independent brokers. They treat people politely on the surface but insult us with the slap on the face they call "Service". "For your convenience" really means "for our convenience". Returning a car to Florence, for example, is not convenient. Instead of being open 24 hours at train station and airport locations, they open at 8, close completely for a few hours at lunch (even when more than one person is manning the office and they could easily stagger lunch hours), and close by 7 at night. They complain about no jobs and failing economy... Gee... I wonder why it is failing?
Then do they put pickup/return offices at a desk IN the train station? No. You have to drag your luggage several blocks from the station to their office through through the typically sleezy and dangerous streets to find them. Are there signs at the huge train station at least telling you which direction to head? No. (Naples Central is about a kilometer wide... Hertz about 1/4 mile away from the closest exit... over very rough cobbles). Also, when returning cars to Florence, you have to be incredibly careful about NOT driving into the ZTL (no drive zone, or Zona Traffico Limitato) or six months after your trip you'll get a very expensive summons from one of the many ZTL cameras. (BTW, these are legitimate fines, not scams. Learn about the ZTLs HERE and HERE).
And to top it all off, they never bring the car to you. In Chiusi we had to walk in the rain, dragging luggage over a quarter mile and get the car parked near a bridge. In Florence they actually give you a map to get to the garage. He told us it was a parking lot, but Lucas noticed the teeny Hertz sign on a garage building that also does hourly parking. He said it was a one minute walk only "30 meters" across the street and around the corner... it was more like 1000 meters. We had to pass all sorts of low-lifes, smells and filth. I was seriously worried about our safety. Oh yea... and that street in front of their office that we have to cross? No crosswalk... a very busy intersection with cars jostling to get onto the nearby interstrada.
Hertz in Italy is just a logo... a method used by schemers to latch onto a good company name and deliver a dumbed down, lazy Italian style service... "for your convenience... for your convenience..." Yea, right.
Oh... the last straw: months ago I booked a compact class Fiat 500L automatic for our southern part of the journey... especially to help navigate the twisty, mountainous, narrow roads of the Almafi Coast. They didn't have automatic in compact class so I wound up getting a a very wide Volvo SUV. It was diesel, which saves money on gas, but Lucas said it sounded just like his schoolbus (it did). Oh, and they gave it to me dirty... then asked if I wanted it washed. I said yes. He said "another 20 minutes" which in Italy means over an hour... or so. I said no since we still had to get over the mountains to our Amalfi apartment where the caretaker was expecting us as a set time.
Such is car renting in Italia. I'd love to hear from others about their experiences with other Italian rental companies (i.e., brokers) to see if it makes any difference. I doubt it, though. For instance, the Florence in-town location also had logos of other rental companies. The experience would be the same no matter what logo you decide to rent with.
--Jerry Finzi
P.S. If you like what you've read, please LIKE us on Facebook and SHARE us with your friends who might also be interested. Gratzie!
Then do they put pickup/return offices at a desk IN the train station? No. You have to drag your luggage several blocks from the station to their office through through the typically sleezy and dangerous streets to find them. Are there signs at the huge train station at least telling you which direction to head? No. (Naples Central is about a kilometer wide... Hertz about 1/4 mile away from the closest exit... over very rough cobbles). Also, when returning cars to Florence, you have to be incredibly careful about NOT driving into the ZTL (no drive zone, or Zona Traffico Limitato) or six months after your trip you'll get a very expensive summons from one of the many ZTL cameras. (BTW, these are legitimate fines, not scams. Learn about the ZTLs HERE and HERE).
And to top it all off, they never bring the car to you. In Chiusi we had to walk in the rain, dragging luggage over a quarter mile and get the car parked near a bridge. In Florence they actually give you a map to get to the garage. He told us it was a parking lot, but Lucas noticed the teeny Hertz sign on a garage building that also does hourly parking. He said it was a one minute walk only "30 meters" across the street and around the corner... it was more like 1000 meters. We had to pass all sorts of low-lifes, smells and filth. I was seriously worried about our safety. Oh yea... and that street in front of their office that we have to cross? No crosswalk... a very busy intersection with cars jostling to get onto the nearby interstrada.
Hertz in Italy is just a logo... a method used by schemers to latch onto a good company name and deliver a dumbed down, lazy Italian style service... "for your convenience... for your convenience..." Yea, right.
Oh... the last straw: months ago I booked a compact class Fiat 500L automatic for our southern part of the journey... especially to help navigate the twisty, mountainous, narrow roads of the Almafi Coast. They didn't have automatic in compact class so I wound up getting a a very wide Volvo SUV. It was diesel, which saves money on gas, but Lucas said it sounded just like his schoolbus (it did). Oh, and they gave it to me dirty... then asked if I wanted it washed. I said yes. He said "another 20 minutes" which in Italy means over an hour... or so. I said no since we still had to get over the mountains to our Amalfi apartment where the caretaker was expecting us as a set time.
Such is car renting in Italia. I'd love to hear from others about their experiences with other Italian rental companies (i.e., brokers) to see if it makes any difference. I doubt it, though. For instance, the Florence in-town location also had logos of other rental companies. The experience would be the same no matter what logo you decide to rent with.
--Jerry Finzi
P.S. If you like what you've read, please LIKE us on Facebook and SHARE us with your friends who might also be interested. Gratzie!
To get out of Amalfi we had to put up with more twisty madness and twisted drivers. I can't describe how dangerously these fools drive considering the narrowness of the roads and the abundance of blind curves. Lisa shot a video that captured the insanity... including a near head-on collision. Once we headed south of Sorrento on the highway, things became more normal... well almost.
Over half a mile long and 400 feet high---one of the many bridges in Basilicata. The highway was six lanes wide in places. Ahh... cruise control, come to Babbo. Actually, I was amazed that the South had such a great highway--huge bridges crossing over deep ravines, and lots of tunnels going through the mountains. Italy has always turned their backs--and the government wallets--on the South. But, get this... every several miles there were lane closures, switching lanes over to the opposite side of the highway, with no construction or workers in sight. There was one such detour that funneled 3 lanes down to a single narrow lane, with concrete and metal guard rails that were inches wider than my Volvo XC60 SUV. I actually stopped completely... thinking I was going to scrape the sides of the car. The collision sensor was making that flat line sound! I JUST made it... and somehow the small box truck behind me made it, too. This stuff is nuts.
Anyway, the rest of the drive to Castelmezzano was beautiful. Bigger and more rugged mountains lined our path. This was like the West in the U.S.... big sky and mountains. Some were bald and rocky, others were forested. Then there were dizzyingly high peaks with villages clinging to their cliffs.
Anyway, the rest of the drive to Castelmezzano was beautiful. Bigger and more rugged mountains lined our path. This was like the West in the U.S.... big sky and mountains. Some were bald and rocky, others were forested. Then there were dizzyingly high peaks with villages clinging to their cliffs.
So close and yet so far: Romagnano al Monte ghost town. We took a side detour to a ghost town I had heard about hanging on one of these sort of cliffs, 2000 feet above a steep valley. It became a ghost after an earthquake decades ago. But as we pulled into the village some officials were just leaving and locking a huge gate that had been recently installed. They said it was to protect the historic site from vandals and that it was too dangerous. I had seen lots of pics from people visiting this site and we had supplies for a picnic overlooking that incredible view. They must have locked the place up fairly recently. What a shame. The men were very nice and their leader told us to follow one of their cars to a nearby rustic picnic area that turned out to be really nice. Bread, olives, cheese, tomatoes, fruit, "gassata" (sparking water) and Fanta... lunch was simple but great. (By the way, Fanta here is NOT like the chemical tasting stuff in the U.S. It actually has orange juice from Italian oranges in it. Very light and refreshing.)
Flight of the Angels Pulling in to Castelmezzano was great... uphill twisty roads but more sheep than crazy drivers. Our first views took our breath away. What a mystical setting. A village tucked under amazing dolomite pinnacles. We were able to pull right up to the hotel an unload... parking a short walk down in the village parking. The reception was on the 5th floor... our room was down on the first. At the desk, Lucas tasted the huge block of salt that someone turned into a glowing lamp. Salty with a soft glow. This was an upside down, fairly modest hotel clinging to a cliff with views of the dolomites outside our windows. At least there was an elevator.
Dinner was a bit stuffy and formal but food was good. As this was mid October, the hotel seemed to have only 3 rooms booked. I suppose they get busy in the summer with people flocking here to do the zipline (more on that below). Afterwards the highlight was walking the passagiata with the locals (we were the only tourists) and coming upon the piazza overlooking the cliffs and village just as all the lights were lit. A Christmas village illuminated right before our eyes. I got some great pics using my tiny backpack tripod. We then walked a bit on the little streets, so narrow that you had to hug the walls if a small car came past.
The next morning we drove to the nearby sister clifftown of Pietrapertosa via an amazing twisty and dangerous road (one part was undercut from a landslide... I drove quick over that.) Even this drive was an enjoyable adventure with just us on the roads--aside from the sheep and goats. I tried taking a photo of a line of sheep heading toward our road to cross... as soon as I got out of the car I heard one of the "sheep" give two sharp barks. It was the sheep dog warning of the danger. The sheep stopped dead in their tracks and would not move as long as the didn't get the all clear.
The views of Pietrapertosa were even more astounding than Castelmezzano. I'll be sure to post some pics... words can't do it justice. The pinnacles were ornate and many. Some looked like faces... others just impress with the volcanic uplift that created them. The views from the road is amazing. In some parts of the village the cliffs lean and hang right over the houses!
There is even a zipline that runs between the two towns called the Flight of the Angel (volodellangelo.com). You lay flat in a harness--Superman style--and fly at over 70 MPH! I had hoped to do it myself but it was a bit of a logistic problem... You need to decide which direction you want to travel in. There are lines going both ways but in different locations due to the downward pitch of the line needed to go from one town to the other. I couldn't figure out how to get back and forth--and one of the roads between the two towns is closed. (Yea... that's my story and I'm stickin' to it... yea, that's the ticket.)
We then drove into a broad high plateau to move to our next amazement... the cave city of Matera, where we would spend the night in a cave hotel....
--Jerry F.
P.S. If you enjoyed reading this post, please LIKE us on Facebook and SHARE it with friends who might be interested. Gratzie!
Dinner was a bit stuffy and formal but food was good. As this was mid October, the hotel seemed to have only 3 rooms booked. I suppose they get busy in the summer with people flocking here to do the zipline (more on that below). Afterwards the highlight was walking the passagiata with the locals (we were the only tourists) and coming upon the piazza overlooking the cliffs and village just as all the lights were lit. A Christmas village illuminated right before our eyes. I got some great pics using my tiny backpack tripod. We then walked a bit on the little streets, so narrow that you had to hug the walls if a small car came past.
The next morning we drove to the nearby sister clifftown of Pietrapertosa via an amazing twisty and dangerous road (one part was undercut from a landslide... I drove quick over that.) Even this drive was an enjoyable adventure with just us on the roads--aside from the sheep and goats. I tried taking a photo of a line of sheep heading toward our road to cross... as soon as I got out of the car I heard one of the "sheep" give two sharp barks. It was the sheep dog warning of the danger. The sheep stopped dead in their tracks and would not move as long as the didn't get the all clear.
The views of Pietrapertosa were even more astounding than Castelmezzano. I'll be sure to post some pics... words can't do it justice. The pinnacles were ornate and many. Some looked like faces... others just impress with the volcanic uplift that created them. The views from the road is amazing. In some parts of the village the cliffs lean and hang right over the houses!
There is even a zipline that runs between the two towns called the Flight of the Angel (volodellangelo.com). You lay flat in a harness--Superman style--and fly at over 70 MPH! I had hoped to do it myself but it was a bit of a logistic problem... You need to decide which direction you want to travel in. There are lines going both ways but in different locations due to the downward pitch of the line needed to go from one town to the other. I couldn't figure out how to get back and forth--and one of the roads between the two towns is closed. (Yea... that's my story and I'm stickin' to it... yea, that's the ticket.)
We then drove into a broad high plateau to move to our next amazement... the cave city of Matera, where we would spend the night in a cave hotel....
--Jerry F.
P.S. If you enjoyed reading this post, please LIKE us on Facebook and SHARE it with friends who might be interested. Gratzie!
One of the many castings of a Pompeii eruption victim.
Rough cobbles, high curbs and three crosswalk stones. Today we got out early to see Pompeii... or so we thought. The plan was to park at the rear Porto Anfiteatro entrance early (a rear entrance), before the tour buses dump their hoards at the main entrance. We would walk quickly to the main entrance (Porta Marina) and then work our way toward Anfiteatro before being swamped by the masses at our backs. Well, that didn't work. (Thanks a lot, Rick Steves, for the lame suggestion). The walk up hill was very rough and we kept being distracted by seeing all the fantastic sights. The ancient cobbles and high curbs were difficult to navigate--not quickly, anyway. Plus we weren't early enough... the hoards of cruise ship tourists, texting Swedish schoolgirls and pushy Chinese nouveau riche swarmed the place.
The going was very tough. I've read about the cobbles in Pompeii, but my Lord are they rough on your feet. They are eroded at the edges so badly that I felt like I was hopping stones across a stream. Some are high, some low. They are also rutted by chariot wheels... fascinating to ponder but hard on your ankles. Steps are a foot or more high... tough on knees. Some curbs are even higher. The ancient sidewalks are very eroded and uneven. Combine this with stones jutting out of the soil and tripping you. Lucas almost tripped once on a rock jutting up... I almost tripped three times. There is rock dust over everything so the rocks are hard to see. There are groups of three stones crossing the streets in places. These were used to cross the street and not get your feet wet--there would be water flowing through the streets for waste removal.
The history is amazing though. My favorite was the baths. Ancient pipes, hollow heated floors, walls and ceilings in the Caldorium. The baths also had lots of intact frescos and bas reliefs. Lucas was fascinated by the plaster casts of the people buried under ash. There was even a dog writhing on his back... frozen in time at the moment the hot ash took his life.
I also loved the street-side shops with marble bar tops with amphorae built into the counters. You could picture customers coming up and buying beer, wine and snacks. The wells all over the site are beautiful... each has the water coming out of the mouth of masks... and the water is potable. We filled our thermos 4 times and Lucas and I wet our caps. It was pretty hot today.
The going was very tough. I've read about the cobbles in Pompeii, but my Lord are they rough on your feet. They are eroded at the edges so badly that I felt like I was hopping stones across a stream. Some are high, some low. They are also rutted by chariot wheels... fascinating to ponder but hard on your ankles. Steps are a foot or more high... tough on knees. Some curbs are even higher. The ancient sidewalks are very eroded and uneven. Combine this with stones jutting out of the soil and tripping you. Lucas almost tripped once on a rock jutting up... I almost tripped three times. There is rock dust over everything so the rocks are hard to see. There are groups of three stones crossing the streets in places. These were used to cross the street and not get your feet wet--there would be water flowing through the streets for waste removal.
The history is amazing though. My favorite was the baths. Ancient pipes, hollow heated floors, walls and ceilings in the Caldorium. The baths also had lots of intact frescos and bas reliefs. Lucas was fascinated by the plaster casts of the people buried under ash. There was even a dog writhing on his back... frozen in time at the moment the hot ash took his life.
I also loved the street-side shops with marble bar tops with amphorae built into the counters. You could picture customers coming up and buying beer, wine and snacks. The wells all over the site are beautiful... each has the water coming out of the mouth of masks... and the water is potable. We filled our thermos 4 times and Lucas and I wet our caps. It was pretty hot today.
Fountains of Pompeii... Refreshing.
Lucas doing the photographer thing at Pompeii. That's my boy! They also had a gated shed will thousands of artifacts from the city... mostly amphorae, but also columns, fountains and other treasures. They should really spend the money on a museum at Pompeii. Most of the artifacts and statues are in the Naples National Archaeological Museum--a city I'd never return to. Here's a link to some photos of what they removed from Pompeii.
Afterwards we took a ride toward Sorrento. We found it to be overly chic, with stylish designer shops galore... not our thing. Plus, we must have driven around the town three times trying to get to the main street. The one way streets really lock you in to making turns you don't want to take. So we headed up the twisty roads toward Masse Lubrense, a massive mountain area above Sorrento dotted with workaday village and views. We bought pastries for tomorrow's breakfast and headed down the pass toward the Amalfi Coast again.
We got to one point where you could see both sides of Sorrento Peninsula at the same time. Gulf of Naples and Vesuvius on one side, the Tyrrhenian Sea on the other. I couldn't believe the views. As we drove down the coast road again--the western area we hadn't been on before--I was struck by how much more natural the environment was. Huge light colored cliffs... caves... rugged pinnacles of stone jutting up from the sea and the mountainsides. And more curvy roads and insanely dangerous drivers--the locals pass you on inside curves, outside curves, when oncoming cars are approaching, in curved tunnels, they'll pass you while another car is passing, even when people are walking on the narrow side of the road, or when a huge bus is coming round the bend! And if you drive carefully around the hair-pin turns yourself, they'll ride your butt a couple of feet from your rear bumper--and then pass you!
I was so tired when we got back. I'm proud to say that I drove these amazing roads and the amazing landscape and the villages clinging for dear life from the cliffs above the sea... but I'll be happy to leave Amalfi tomorrow... Once in life is enough.
--Jerry F.
Don't forget to SHARE this post with your friends, and let us know what you think by leaving a COMMENT. Gratzie!
Afterwards we took a ride toward Sorrento. We found it to be overly chic, with stylish designer shops galore... not our thing. Plus, we must have driven around the town three times trying to get to the main street. The one way streets really lock you in to making turns you don't want to take. So we headed up the twisty roads toward Masse Lubrense, a massive mountain area above Sorrento dotted with workaday village and views. We bought pastries for tomorrow's breakfast and headed down the pass toward the Amalfi Coast again.
We got to one point where you could see both sides of Sorrento Peninsula at the same time. Gulf of Naples and Vesuvius on one side, the Tyrrhenian Sea on the other. I couldn't believe the views. As we drove down the coast road again--the western area we hadn't been on before--I was struck by how much more natural the environment was. Huge light colored cliffs... caves... rugged pinnacles of stone jutting up from the sea and the mountainsides. And more curvy roads and insanely dangerous drivers--the locals pass you on inside curves, outside curves, when oncoming cars are approaching, in curved tunnels, they'll pass you while another car is passing, even when people are walking on the narrow side of the road, or when a huge bus is coming round the bend! And if you drive carefully around the hair-pin turns yourself, they'll ride your butt a couple of feet from your rear bumper--and then pass you!
I was so tired when we got back. I'm proud to say that I drove these amazing roads and the amazing landscape and the villages clinging for dear life from the cliffs above the sea... but I'll be happy to leave Amalfi tomorrow... Once in life is enough.
--Jerry F.
Don't forget to SHARE this post with your friends, and let us know what you think by leaving a COMMENT. Gratzie!
Driving back down to the Amalfi Coast road from Masse Lubrense.
Taking a day trip from our Amalfi Coast apartment, we headed out toward Pompeii... over the mountains and a short autostrada drive away. I've read about all sorts of scams in Italy, many done by gypsies. This one was unexpected... a real shocker:
On the way to Pompeii, I was about to pull into the toll booth of the Autostrada, I noticed a young woman standing, texting, leaning with her back to the toll machine... and the car in front of us almost brushing her pregnant looking belly with their side mirror. Huh?
At first I thought she was ticket taker outside her booth, then it dawned on me. She a gypsy trying to scam people! The way she was leaning and pushing her belly into the car's side mirror, she was forcing drivers to pull out too far from the machine to put money into. Then she takes the money out of your hand to "help", gets the change for you, and pockets some. You have to remember here that when you get change the coins could be 1 or 2 euro pieces... that's $1.27 - $2.60 each coin she pockets. I imagine if you try to put a really big bill in she'd just grab the cash and run over to the lanes in the opposite direction. I guarantee the belly is phony. It looked very squishy when the car mirror pushed into it--like foam.
So, when she tried this with me I growled my very best "Va via!" ("hit the road!") and she shrunk away from my car. I opened my door so I could reach the toll machine and sped off when the toll gate lifted. Imagine this happening at any U.S. highway tollbooth (Again, don't Italians need jobs? How about toll keepers or guards?) I can't stand these human leaches.
By the way, I should mention that while I did carry my wallet in my front pants pocket, I did opt to use a flatter money clip wallet to carry just essentials for each day: our main "points" credit card (with no transfer fees), our dedicated ATM card (we opened an account just for this trip with limited funds in it) and daily cash. I had one of those money belt pouches with me, but never really used it. Instead, I bought a leg wallet from Amazon and used it all the time. The leg wallet was able to carry all of our backup cards (though Lisa kept one in her PacSafe mule bag as another backup) along with all our extra cash. There were only a few days I didn't wear it---when it was too hot for pants and I wore shorts.
We were lucky in Italy. We never got robbed but caught a few trying at times. The best advice I can give is learn the simple expression, "Va Via!" Don't just say it... growl it or yell it. Make noise. There are gypsies dressed as makeshift nuns around the Vatican holding cups for handouts. You can tell their habits aren't correct. In general, do NOT give handouts! These beggars might have a partner who just saw where you keep your money. Charity remains at home--when you travel.
There are other gypsies that toss babies to you to catch (just dolls) and while you are distracted, their kids snatch your purse, camera, etc. There are people at train stations that try to "help" with luggage or with those ticket machines... just don't let anyone help you. Oh, and don't be suckered into taking pictures of or with those fake gladiators outside the Colosseum. They will strong arm you into paying huge fees just to take a picture of them. They are pretty aggressive. Now that I think of it, that guy who was crowding us in the Colosseum gift shop was more than likely trying to pick our pockets.
Toll booth gypsies. Who knew? You see, there are many types of scammers and many ways to pick our pockets without actually putting a hand in there...
--Jerry Finzi
Don't forget to SHARE this post with your friends, and let us know what you think by leaving a COMMENT. Gratzie!
On the way to Pompeii, I was about to pull into the toll booth of the Autostrada, I noticed a young woman standing, texting, leaning with her back to the toll machine... and the car in front of us almost brushing her pregnant looking belly with their side mirror. Huh?
At first I thought she was ticket taker outside her booth, then it dawned on me. She a gypsy trying to scam people! The way she was leaning and pushing her belly into the car's side mirror, she was forcing drivers to pull out too far from the machine to put money into. Then she takes the money out of your hand to "help", gets the change for you, and pockets some. You have to remember here that when you get change the coins could be 1 or 2 euro pieces... that's $1.27 - $2.60 each coin she pockets. I imagine if you try to put a really big bill in she'd just grab the cash and run over to the lanes in the opposite direction. I guarantee the belly is phony. It looked very squishy when the car mirror pushed into it--like foam.
So, when she tried this with me I growled my very best "Va via!" ("hit the road!") and she shrunk away from my car. I opened my door so I could reach the toll machine and sped off when the toll gate lifted. Imagine this happening at any U.S. highway tollbooth (Again, don't Italians need jobs? How about toll keepers or guards?) I can't stand these human leaches.
By the way, I should mention that while I did carry my wallet in my front pants pocket, I did opt to use a flatter money clip wallet to carry just essentials for each day: our main "points" credit card (with no transfer fees), our dedicated ATM card (we opened an account just for this trip with limited funds in it) and daily cash. I had one of those money belt pouches with me, but never really used it. Instead, I bought a leg wallet from Amazon and used it all the time. The leg wallet was able to carry all of our backup cards (though Lisa kept one in her PacSafe mule bag as another backup) along with all our extra cash. There were only a few days I didn't wear it---when it was too hot for pants and I wore shorts.
We were lucky in Italy. We never got robbed but caught a few trying at times. The best advice I can give is learn the simple expression, "Va Via!" Don't just say it... growl it or yell it. Make noise. There are gypsies dressed as makeshift nuns around the Vatican holding cups for handouts. You can tell their habits aren't correct. In general, do NOT give handouts! These beggars might have a partner who just saw where you keep your money. Charity remains at home--when you travel.
There are other gypsies that toss babies to you to catch (just dolls) and while you are distracted, their kids snatch your purse, camera, etc. There are people at train stations that try to "help" with luggage or with those ticket machines... just don't let anyone help you. Oh, and don't be suckered into taking pictures of or with those fake gladiators outside the Colosseum. They will strong arm you into paying huge fees just to take a picture of them. They are pretty aggressive. Now that I think of it, that guy who was crowding us in the Colosseum gift shop was more than likely trying to pick our pockets.
Toll booth gypsies. Who knew? You see, there are many types of scammers and many ways to pick our pockets without actually putting a hand in there...
--Jerry Finzi
Don't forget to SHARE this post with your friends, and let us know what you think by leaving a COMMENT. Gratzie!
This guy is going to be hit up for paying 20-30 Euro for having his friend take a picture of him while he poses with the gladiator scammers.
A disturbing painting of Vesuvius on the wall at Le Cicale.
"We Three" on the terrace at Le Cicale. Yesterday we got out of Naples as fast as we could... the Interstrada got us past Mount Vesuvius (the top was in the clouds) and helped get us to the mountain pass that took us to the Amalfi Coast and La Cicale, our apartment above the Tyrrhenian Sea for the next three days. The roads up were very curvy with more and more switchbacks bringing us to higher altitudes. The rugged mountains and cliffs amazed us. Then the hill villages came... where the real people of Amalfi do their living... and shopping. We took advantage and stopped for bread, pasta, butter, eggs and various supplies. The shopkeepers were very sweet, helpful and friendly even considering the language barrier.
We got to Cicale and no one was there at first... so we called. Then Stefania (Lucas calls her "with the hairy armpits") showed up and took a while to show us around. It was odd, she spent too much time showing us each and every room, nook and cranny. She seemed on the nosy side. (We were tired and just wanted to cook a meal, eat and hit the sack.) After about half an hour, I managed to get her to leave us in peace in our new apartment.
Cicale is amazing... 2000 feet above the sea, a private balcony on each bedroom and our own terrace overlooking the sea. The views are breathtaking. You look our over the glistening Tyrrhenian and barely see the horizon blending into the sky. There is a view down into our cut in the mountains into the Furore Fiord and the amazing bridge that travels over it. The Fiord is a jagged cut out of the mountain that has a little sandy beach under the bridge.
We got to Cicale and no one was there at first... so we called. Then Stefania (Lucas calls her "with the hairy armpits") showed up and took a while to show us around. It was odd, she spent too much time showing us each and every room, nook and cranny. She seemed on the nosy side. (We were tired and just wanted to cook a meal, eat and hit the sack.) After about half an hour, I managed to get her to leave us in peace in our new apartment.
Cicale is amazing... 2000 feet above the sea, a private balcony on each bedroom and our own terrace overlooking the sea. The views are breathtaking. You look our over the glistening Tyrrhenian and barely see the horizon blending into the sky. There is a view down into our cut in the mountains into the Furore Fiord and the amazing bridge that travels over it. The Fiord is a jagged cut out of the mountain that has a little sandy beach under the bridge.
There is a fully equipped kitchen (with oven), bath and shower, two big bedrooms and tons of decorative Amalfi tile (they're known for ceramics and lemons here). Two large shuttered patio doors lead our onto our private terrace. A great place to eat and watch the sea. Each bedroom has double doors that lead out onto private Juliet balconies. However, as usual, there is spotty Internet, spotty water heater, no ice cube trays and no air conditioning here... although sleeping should be cool with the shutters and sea breezes. I'd hate to stay here in summer, though. Unlike our last place, Cicale came with a nice assortment of coffee, tea jams, breads and basic kitchen spices. And we went shopping before we got here so we are ready to cook!
Night time fell and so did we...
The next morning I awoke to a glistening sea sunrise, the smell of more olive prunings being burned, an old neighbor on the terraced house below us coming out and picking tomatoes, the beep beep of cars going around the downhill curve we are on, wall climbing lizards and flowering bougainvillea. We had jam, honey, nutella, sweet bread and cornettos for collatzione and headed out into paradise--at least it LOOKS like paradise...
Night time fell and so did we...
The next morning I awoke to a glistening sea sunrise, the smell of more olive prunings being burned, an old neighbor on the terraced house below us coming out and picking tomatoes, the beep beep of cars going around the downhill curve we are on, wall climbing lizards and flowering bougainvillea. We had jam, honey, nutella, sweet bread and cornettos for collatzione and headed out into paradise--at least it LOOKS like paradise...
Lisa was beside herself with each curve and near miss I maneuvered. Most roads are at the edge of cliffs 500-2000 feet high above the sea, with either a low stone wall or a weak looking metal fence between us and going airborne. Sure, I have an automatic, which helps, but it's a very wide car for these roads. There are times when oncoming cars force you so far over to the wall or cliff face that my parking collision sensor alarms trip off.
By the way, even though it seems like the Italians are driving at breakneck speeds, it's really slow going on the Amalfi Coast. Even though the entire Coast Road from the Masse Lubrense mountain to Salerno is only about 30 miles, it could easily take you 3 hours to travel the whole thing (more in the stagnant summer traffic). This is what makes these crazy, speeding, careless Italian drivers even more ridiculous. Even though their mindset is as if they are in the Mille Miglia or Grand Prix, their average speed on the Coast Road is about 10 miles an hour. Speed like crazy 'til you hug the next car's rear bumper... then wait a minute or three until... yes... pass him on the next curve! Bravo! Ok... now the next rear bumper...
While the driving is the hell in this paradise, the views are astounding. I just can't look for too long while I'm driving. Still, this place is one of the most beautiful I've ever been to. The architecture, the tiled domes on the churches, the rugged cliffs above, the terraced olive and lemon groves, the rocky shoreline and sea below and the castle towers on just about every promontory. In places it's like I've walked right into a Maxfield Parrish painting. The driving. Well, the driving is hell. I love driving curvy roads, but it's not so much the roads as dealing with the drivers here. First of all, I am SO glad I have an automatic for Amalfi driving. One less thing to think about while maneuvering on roads barely wide enough for a Fiat 500, no less huge buses. Our Volvo SUV is way to wide for comfort here. I wish I had gotten a Fiat 500L like I had originally reserved. Most roads have dangerous curves and drastic changes in altitude via switchbacks... on one road alone I counted six hairpin switchbacks bringing up over a thousand feet. Some of the hairpin turns are so sharp that the turning circle of the Volvo can barely make it across both lanes. And the drivers... they are crazy! Pazzo! The locals go speeding around blind curves, crossing over lines (if there are any lines), hugging your rear and passing where there isn't space to pass--and on curves, too! The motorcyclists and scooters are even worse. They ride right down the middle as it it's another invisible lane. People are in the habit of beeping several times when going around blind curves. There are also convex mirrors on lots of turns but they don't help much.
And then there are the tourist buses. I read once that these buses are narrow--specially built for narrow Italian roads like the Coast Drive. Nonsense. These are huge. Some are like those monster buses you see taking rock groups on tours in the States. I also read that--for safety--they only went one direction on the Coast Road. Again.. nonsense. I've seen them going both ways, so it's possible you have a bus tailgating you while another is trying to come in the opposite direction taking up more than one lane. I've even seen tandem trailers on the Amalfi Coast Road. How they get through the very tight one lane villages is beyond me.
By the way, even though it seems like the Italians are driving at breakneck speeds, it's really slow going on the Amalfi Coast. Even though the entire Coast Road from the Masse Lubrense mountain to Salerno is only about 30 miles, it could easily take you 3 hours to travel the whole thing (more in the stagnant summer traffic). This is what makes these crazy, speeding, careless Italian drivers even more ridiculous. Even though their mindset is as if they are in the Mille Miglia or Grand Prix, their average speed on the Coast Road is about 10 miles an hour. Speed like crazy 'til you hug the next car's rear bumper... then wait a minute or three until... yes... pass him on the next curve! Bravo! Ok... now the next rear bumper...
While the driving is the hell in this paradise, the views are astounding. I just can't look for too long while I'm driving. Still, this place is one of the most beautiful I've ever been to. The architecture, the tiled domes on the churches, the rugged cliffs above, the terraced olive and lemon groves, the rocky shoreline and sea below and the castle towers on just about every promontory. In places it's like I've walked right into a Maxfield Parrish painting. The driving. Well, the driving is hell. I love driving curvy roads, but it's not so much the roads as dealing with the drivers here. First of all, I am SO glad I have an automatic for Amalfi driving. One less thing to think about while maneuvering on roads barely wide enough for a Fiat 500, no less huge buses. Our Volvo SUV is way to wide for comfort here. I wish I had gotten a Fiat 500L like I had originally reserved. Most roads have dangerous curves and drastic changes in altitude via switchbacks... on one road alone I counted six hairpin switchbacks bringing up over a thousand feet. Some of the hairpin turns are so sharp that the turning circle of the Volvo can barely make it across both lanes. And the drivers... they are crazy! Pazzo! The locals go speeding around blind curves, crossing over lines (if there are any lines), hugging your rear and passing where there isn't space to pass--and on curves, too! The motorcyclists and scooters are even worse. They ride right down the middle as it it's another invisible lane. People are in the habit of beeping several times when going around blind curves. There are also convex mirrors on lots of turns but they don't help much.
And then there are the tourist buses. I read once that these buses are narrow--specially built for narrow Italian roads like the Coast Drive. Nonsense. These are huge. Some are like those monster buses you see taking rock groups on tours in the States. I also read that--for safety--they only went one direction on the Coast Road. Again.. nonsense. I've seen them going both ways, so it's possible you have a bus tailgating you while another is trying to come in the opposite direction taking up more than one lane. I've even seen tandem trailers on the Amalfi Coast Road. How they get through the very tight one lane villages is beyond me.
Lisa was beside herself with each curve and near miss I maneuvered. Most roads are at the edge of cliffs 500-2000 feet high above the sea, with either a low stone wall or a weak looking metal fence between us and going airborne. Sure, I have an automatic, which helps, but it's a very wide car for these roads. There are times when oncoming cars force you so far over to the wall or cliff face that my parking collision sensor alarms trip off.
By the way, even though it seems like the Italians are driving at breakneck speeds, it's really slow going on the Amalfi Coast. Even though the entire Coast Road from the Masse Lubrense mountain to Salerno is only about 30 miles, it could easily take you 3 hours to travel the whole thing (more in the stagnant summer traffic). This is what makes these crazy, speeding, careless Italian drivers even more ridiculous. Even though their mindset is as if they are in the Mille Miglia or Grand Prix, their average speed on the Coast Road is about 10 miles an hour. Speed like crazy 'til you hug the next car's rear bumper... then wait a minute or three until... yes... pass him on the next curve! Bravo! Ok... now the next rear bumper...
While the driving is the hell in this paradise, the views are astounding. I just can't look for too long while I'm driving. Still, this place is one of the most beautiful I've ever been to. The architecture, the tiled domes on the churches, the rugged cliffs above, the terraced olive and lemon groves, the rocky shoreline and sea below and the castle towers on just about every promontory. In places it's like I've walked right into a Maxfield Parrish painting.
By the way, even though it seems like the Italians are driving at breakneck speeds, it's really slow going on the Amalfi Coast. Even though the entire Coast Road from the Masse Lubrense mountain to Salerno is only about 30 miles, it could easily take you 3 hours to travel the whole thing (more in the stagnant summer traffic). This is what makes these crazy, speeding, careless Italian drivers even more ridiculous. Even though their mindset is as if they are in the Mille Miglia or Grand Prix, their average speed on the Coast Road is about 10 miles an hour. Speed like crazy 'til you hug the next car's rear bumper... then wait a minute or three until... yes... pass him on the next curve! Bravo! Ok... now the next rear bumper...
While the driving is the hell in this paradise, the views are astounding. I just can't look for too long while I'm driving. Still, this place is one of the most beautiful I've ever been to. The architecture, the tiled domes on the churches, the rugged cliffs above, the terraced olive and lemon groves, the rocky shoreline and sea below and the castle towers on just about every promontory. In places it's like I've walked right into a Maxfield Parrish painting.
One of the craziest drives was the one heading up to Ravello, a very artsy and musically important town clinging to the cliffs high above the sea. We strolled through Rufulo Gardens for its beautiful gardens, architecture and amazing views. The views from the terraced garden walls were unbelievable... like we were up on top of the beanstalk in the Giant's cloud looking down. We then had a simple lunch on the Piazza listening to street musicians singing old fashioned songs like Volare, but still lots of fun.
We then drove to a treat for Lucas--Vietri sul Mare, a town know for ceramics and tiles. (Lucas has taken several pottery classes.) We first visited the Solimene Ceremica factory. The building itself is a work of art looking like a modern interpretation of a castle covered with tile. It was designed and built by built in 1954 but looks like it was designed and built this year, aside from its deferred maintenance.
The place was full of pottery workers... few customers. It's not exactly a retail space, although you can walk right in. We saw all sorts of pottery and tiles... masks, fish, mermaids, monsters and of course bowls and other vessels. We wandered around and went to each worker to watch them work... one even let Lucas try his hand at putting a handle on a cup. Lucas was impressed with their bowl molding machine and how fast the artisans painted each plate with brightly colored glaze. One worker was making glaze in a huge vat, which made the 5 gallon buckets of glaze in Lucas' pottery class seem tiny. We tried to catch a girl's attention in the office to ask about buying something, but she ignored us. There were no prices on anything, although all sorts of things were strewn all around the place. It was impossible to buy things here. (A note from December, 2014: I finally bought Lisa some Solimene pasta bowls from an importer for Christmas at ridiculous prices... and she loves them).
Next we walked on a nearby street where every other shop is selling ceramics... most were artisan shops. Every shop facade was a one of a kind work of art in tile. We bought some things from one shop (a chicken pitcher and some mini bowls for Lucas' classmates) and started to head back to Le Cicale for another home cooked meal.
The place was full of pottery workers... few customers. It's not exactly a retail space, although you can walk right in. We saw all sorts of pottery and tiles... masks, fish, mermaids, monsters and of course bowls and other vessels. We wandered around and went to each worker to watch them work... one even let Lucas try his hand at putting a handle on a cup. Lucas was impressed with their bowl molding machine and how fast the artisans painted each plate with brightly colored glaze. One worker was making glaze in a huge vat, which made the 5 gallon buckets of glaze in Lucas' pottery class seem tiny. We tried to catch a girl's attention in the office to ask about buying something, but she ignored us. There were no prices on anything, although all sorts of things were strewn all around the place. It was impossible to buy things here. (A note from December, 2014: I finally bought Lisa some Solimene pasta bowls from an importer for Christmas at ridiculous prices... and she loves them).
Next we walked on a nearby street where every other shop is selling ceramics... most were artisan shops. Every shop facade was a one of a kind work of art in tile. We bought some things from one shop (a chicken pitcher and some mini bowls for Lucas' classmates) and started to head back to Le Cicale for another home cooked meal.
Of course, the ride home was tense... 15 minutes of traffic before we could even turn around to go back in the opposite direction on the Coast Road. This time I was graceful as a dancer around each curve... like a boxer bobbing and weaving to avoid the oncoming idiots. We made it back safely, thank God.
Dinner tonight was gnocchi with tomatoes, provolone, speck (smoked prosciutto), wine and bruschetta... all bought for about 10 bucks at little alimentari in Vietri sul Mare--including 3 euro for the nice bottle of Montepulciano wine. Buona notte, tutti...
--Jerry Finzi
P.S. If you like what you've read, please LIKE us on Facebook and SHARE us with your friends who might also be interested. Gratzie!
Dinner tonight was gnocchi with tomatoes, provolone, speck (smoked prosciutto), wine and bruschetta... all bought for about 10 bucks at little alimentari in Vietri sul Mare--including 3 euro for the nice bottle of Montepulciano wine. Buona notte, tutti...
--Jerry Finzi
P.S. If you like what you've read, please LIKE us on Facebook and SHARE us with your friends who might also be interested. Gratzie!
Here we will share our experiences on the Sorrento peninsula and the Amalfi Coast. We are looking forward to the drive along the curvy scenic roads of this region, the cliff-hugging towns, where Odysseus came upon the Sirens and giant lemons grow.
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