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We're All About Italy

ITALY SPEAKS: Naples Stoops to Matching Dog Poop DNA with the Owners. Taking a dog bite out of organized crime. 

2/22/2015

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No Sh*t. This is a messy story about a messy city. DNA samples will be taken by special city poop inspectors. Who wouldn't like that job. Wonder if they work by commission or by the kilo?

--from Mother Nature Network

In an Italian city struggling with debt, pollution and a mafia-run waste disposal industry, officials turn to DNA testing to help deter poop-scoop negligence amongst dog owners.

It would appear that city officials in Naples, the gritty Italian port city best known for its pickpockets, pizza, and horrendous garbage problem, are really laying down the law when it comes to animal waste that’s been left to bake under the Mediterranean sun on city sidewalks by neglectful dog owners.   As reported by the New York Times, Naples has launched a DNA database to help police nab — and fine —scofflaws who habitually fail to retrieve and properly dispose of canine cacca. While the scheme is now in its infancy, officials hope to eventually build a database of all the roughly 80,000 dogs in the city, allowing them to easily match an offending poop with an irresponsible person:   The idea is that every dog in the city will be given a blood test for DNA profiling in order to create a database of dogs and owners. When an offending pile is discovered, it will be scraped up and subjected to DNA testing. If a match is made in the database, the owner will face a fine of up to 500 euros, or about $685.   If this all seems vaguely familiar, it’s because some poop-plagued condo associations and apartment rental complexes in the U.S. and elsewhere have also started to employed similar DNA matching services to help put the fear into residents prone to scoop-shirking. In the seaside community of Ipswich, Mass. one super-fired-up — or "rabid" as one anonymous resident puts it — animal control officer is pushing for the town to invest in a DNA database that would enable him to go after offenders. But dog feces-based forensics in a bustling city — Italy’s third largest — of over 960,000 residents is an entirely different creature to be sure.   And officials such as vice mayor Tommaso Sodano are very well aware of this.   “I know some people find it funny that with all the problems the city has, we would focus on dog poop. I know that,” Sodano explains to the Times. Responding to critics who believe that the campaign is an egregious waste of money and resources, Sodano fully admits that Naples has larger and more pressing issues to tackle than deterring dog poop — issues like a crumbling infrastructure, political corruption, and, of course, the Camorra crime syndicate. But he believes that efforts to make the debt-ridden city more beautiful and “demonstrate municipal solving problem” are also important.   To date, the campaign has taken effect in the well-heeled hillside quarters of Vomero and Arenella where plainclothes police officers and city health workers take to the streets with a watchful eye for errant turds — or “presences” as Enrico Del Gaudio of the Municipal Police refers to them. “Now, when I walk the streets, the presences have greatly diminished,” Del Gaudio explains of the campaign’s success thus far. “Before, it was like an obstacle course. Every day, a child would walk into school with a little gift under her shoe.”   While officials continue to build their DNA database, the city’s veterinary hospital is busy taking blood samples from pooches to add to the registry — about 200 dogs are accounted far thus far. And for the most part, residents who bring their dogs in for testing are supportive of the campaign. Or at least they’re pretending to be supportive. Says dog owner Maria Teresa Ceccarelli: “It’s really disgusting. I don’t see people walking their dogs. I just see the results in the street.”   Via [NYT]  
--Matt Hickman
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Italian Animals Don't Speak English

2/20/2015

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Here is an odd tale.... or tail, should I say. It's a tale of a visitor going to Italy and finding out that animals talk, screech, bark and chirp differently there.

On my first day waking up in the agritourismo, I  heard a welcome country sort of sound. To me, I heard, "Cock-a-doodle-doo!). Obviously a rooster waking with the sunrise. When I mentioned it to the padrone later on, he nods his head and says, "Si, that was the gallo with his morning 'chicchirichí'"!
(kee-kee-ree-keee). "Ok", I nod.

So he takes me over to his hen house. They produce organic eggs here, too. There are lots of chickens going "cluck, cluck, cluck", or so I thought. He says "I like-a to hear my galline (hens) laying eggs and saying coccodè" ("cock-o-day"). Then I know-a they are-a happy". Ok. Then he shows me their chicks in a sort of incubator setup to keep them warm. Lots of cheep, cheep, cheeps going on. He picks up one and cups it in his hand and mimics "Ahh, piccolo pulcino, pio, pio, pio". (pee-o, pee-o, pee-o). Uh huh.

He suddenly spied a hole down near the floor where a tiny mouse got in and is eating some feed. "Squit, squit, squit" he says as he tries to land a shovel on top of the little guy. All I heard was a "squeak, squeak" as the mouse disappears into a crack. "He's-a mangia here every day... piccolo topo demone!"

We walk down toward his field and one of his donkeys is having a little hissy fit... "eee, aww, ee, aww!" He goes right up to him, pats him on the rump and says "i-oo, i-oo (eee-oo, eee-oo), mio asino, calma, calma." I picture Shrek's buddy as I watch him calm right down and start nibbling on a weed. 

He wanted to show me his bee boxes near the pond, and as we get close I hear a "ribbit, ribbet". He notices me looking for the source of the croaking and says, "Ahh le rane... cra, cra! Over near-a the water." I see some crows passing overhead and of course he looks up and says "Ahh... Il corvo... cra, cra, cra". Mmmm.... In Italy I suppose frogs and crows are some sort of cousins. There are lots of cousins in Italy. Onwards toward the bee boxes, when I hear a wayward sheep say "Baa". Padrone mimics again.... "Hey, get back over there, mia pecora.... Bee... beee!" grabs him by his wool and lifts him back over the fence into the field. "Bee?" Does the sheep know we're going to see the bees? Somehow, I don't think so.

We get to the bee boxes and all I hear is "Bzzz... Bzzzzz" while he lets out, "zzzz.... zzzz... zzzz... see the ape? They won't sting. No worry We make-a our own miele here too!" Then the goose on the pond let's out a "Honk, Honk" and he answers back "Qua, Qua, oca!" and throws a crust of bread he had in his pocket to the long necked beauty.

As we wandered back around the main field and on toward the main house, I saw some cows laying down near the fence with a cat playing around their tail. Then he points amused and says "Look-a, the gatto, she plays with-a the mucca... miao, miao... MUuuuuuu...." At least some animals around here talk English!

As I get back to my little stone cottage, one of the many dogs on the farm runs up to me and barks, "
bau bau!" Wait a second. I'm actually starting to get the hang of this language! "Here boy", I call... "
venire qui, cane... bau, bau!" I give him a piece of sausage from my pocket. (Where'd that come from?)

(Gotta remember to buy some of that miele before I leave).


--Jerry Finzi

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Amalfi from the eyes of a bird: Drone Video over the Amalfi Coast

2/19/2015

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Here's some amazing views of the rugged, unbelievable landscape of the Amalfi Coast and its towns... Enjoy this little postcard. Arrivederci e la pace...
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Traveling in Italy with a Kid: Lessons Learned from Lucas During Our Voyage, Travel Tips for Kids in Italy

2/18/2015

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Impromptu picnic in Basilicata. Bread, cheeses, sausage, fruite, tomatoes, gassata (sparking water) and Aranciata soda.
I don't know about other parents, but in our little famiglia we are inseparable--we love being together. That's a big plus when you commit to being stuck on planes, trains, automobiles and in small apartments or hotel rooms together. But we planned well, we have a great kid in Lucas, and he helped us know what his needs were as we went along. So, here's some lessons learned--mostly Lucas teaching us--that might help with your family's trip to la Bella Italia.
Food:
Thankfully, if you have a child who wasn't raised on McDonalds, take-out or Chuck-e-Cheese pizza, Lunchables and Pop Tarts, you are ahead of the game, as we were with Lucas. So far, the only food he balked at was a whole lobster staring him in the eye up in Mystic, Connecticut. We were right in thinking Italian cuisine would not be a concern for Lucas. So, what will keep your kiddie well fed?
  1. Healthy, fun snacks in the car, train or plane. Have extra in your mule bag--all the time.
  2. The same with drinks. Always carry one or two--Italy can be hot. When a kid starts acting up or fussing he might just be thirsty.
  3. Lunch. It's often difficult to find any restaurant open at lunchtime--Italians close shop and go to their own homes to eat and nap from 12  until 3pm! Look for bars instead. Bars are more like coffee shops in Italy. They usually have some sort of snacks or sandwiches around lunchtime.
  4. Restaurants don't open until 7pm or later in Italy, so allow a substantial snack in mid to late afternoon, like Gelato. There are gelaterias everywhere. BTW, In Rome you will be able to find lunch, but the same goes for dinner--They start dinner at 7-7:30pm.
  5. Picnics. Prepare for the times when you won't find a place to eat. Pick up stuff at the market, supermarket or alimentari in the morning and plan on having a picnic lunch. We think Lucas loved our picnics the best. 
  6. In smaller towns, alimentari (local markets) will be closed on Sundays. Do your shopping on Saturday so you have supplies for cooking,  picnics, drinks and snacks.
  7. If you are traveling by train, make sure you get on the train with a bunch of snacks and drinks. They offer very little for snacks and drink (and the drinks are usually warm).
  8. Visit local alimentari and let your son or daughter pick out snacks and drinks that look new and interesting to them. In places like train stations they might even see the odd bag of Lays chips, but there are other Italian brands that will serve them well. During your stay in Italy they'll develop their own favorite Italian brands. Take them to a supermercado and let them explore. They'll tell you what they want along with finding it all new and different.
  9. Fruit from the alimentari and outdoor markets. Stock up when you can. They might actually start to enjoy eating fruit if they haven't before. Italy has some great produce. The cheeses are amazing. And don't forget the sausages.
  10. Pasta and Pizza. Ok, this is Italy after all. Keep them away from the burgers and fries and have they will have fun having a plate sized pizza all to themselves. Try having them fold in in quarters like Italians do. Have them try pastas with different shapes, fillings or sauces than they aren't used to. It's all good. Order something different for yourself and offer a reward if they try some of what you are having. Broaden their palette!
  11. Drinks: Bring Thermos brand bottles to keep things cold. With a little ice they will keep drinks cold for many hours. You can refill water bottles from many public fountains in Italy. Just make sure it isn't marked "non potabile". Buy large bottles of water or sodas to save money. In restaurants, don't buy individual sodas or water, instead buy una grande bottiglia di acqua for the table. Water comes in two types, naturale and gassata. (normal and fizzy). If they really want a soda, I'd recommend Fanta. In Italy it's made with fresh orange juice.
  12. Cook at "home". If you are staying in apartments or an agriturismo, plan on cooking your own meals (have the kids help) and then afterwards, do what Italians do--take a walk after dinner on the main street or in the piazza. This is called the passeggiata, and is the time people watch, window shop and to have more gelato!
  13. Cooking classes. Search out classes to make pizza or pasta or even cheese. The kids will love it. Many agriturismo have classes custom made for the young foodies in your family
    .



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Lucas arrives in Rome, driving past the Colosseum
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Minecraft Colosseum
Entertainment:
Electronics. By all means, this is no time to limit their iPod or smart phone use. Before you leave home, let them shop for and install some new games. Lucas kept one of our Kindles in the back seat of our car with Minecraft to keep him from getting bored. And he still put it down when passing by beautiful vistas, castles, and through crazy, windy roads like in Amalfi. Here's what tech things helped him from getting bored:

  1. Minecraft
  2. Scrabble
  3. Hangman
  4. Angry Birds (several versions)
  5. Weebly (so he could blog between stops)
  6. A really good smart phone camera app. (Some take hdr images which are higher quality).
  7. His own video camera (we got him a cheap Sony before we left)
  8. His own camera (He used myPentax WG-1 camera on the trip--it's indestructable and waterproof.)
  9. iPod (even a small one held all of his They Might Be Giants collection and much more)
  10. A few favorite cartoon series or movies on tablets. 
  11. Word games. Sure, I-Spy is a classic, but lately we like the one where you pick a theme (let's say, Roman Life) and then take turns naming things... the first letter has to match the last letter of the last person's word. So... Circus Maximus... S... Senator... R... Romulus... and so on. 
PictureContemplating the past at Ignazia
Education (disguised as FUN):

This is tricky. If you make them think you are going someplace just for their education, they'll shut down and act bored. We let Lucas choose some of his "must see" places while we were planning the trip. The Leaning Tower of Pisa and the Da Vinci Museum in Vinci were his top ones. Here are some other ideas from our trip:

  1. Castles. There are castles everywhere. While Lucas was used to seeing things from the Revolutionary War period at home in Pennsylvania, he was blown away by castles 500 years or more old. He especially like the raised fortress village of Monteriggioni and its towers.
  2. Colosseum. This really wowed him. He learned history naturally, just by being there and visualizing the blood and gore below us. He thought it was interesting how the Popes stole the marble from the Colosseum to built St. Peters. In the little museum there he saw ancient casks they carried documents in--like backpacks.
  3. Ignazia in Puglia. He loved the museum there. Seeing 2000 year old coins and a back fascinated him. Common things like toothpicks and frying pans let him feel the ancient world. Outside there were tombs and 1000 year old olive trees.
  4. Vatican Tour. Although I think our guide could have done more to entertain Lucas, he still picked up a lot of facts and was amazing seeing a bath tub that could fit 20 people, 2000 year old sculptures of dogs (he collects dog figurines), and that amazing Sistine Chapel, where he learned how Michelangelo lay on his back while painting and remembered that he was standing where they just elected the new Pope. He was shocked when he realized the three dimensional architectural details surrounding the windows were actually flat paint.  
  5. Pompeii. Although it was a rough, hot day, he still had fun learning about the caldarium, frigitorium, and vomitorium, and imagining Romans taking a cold bath, a hot bath and then throwing up. He filled his water bottle from ancient fountains and jumped over the cross walk stepping stones. He saw the grooves left by chariots. Then he was struck by the plaster casts of people frozen in time under the ash at the moment they were buried in the eruption.  
  6. Amalfi Ceramics: Lucas had already taken a couple of pottery and wheel throwing classes so one thing we knew we had to do is visit Solemene  Ceramics factory in Vietri sul Mare. He even got a chance to watch the craftsmen painting plates and helped putting handles on cups. Hopefully, seeing all the various types of tiles and ceramics there will inspire him when he takes another class.
  7. Supermarkets. Yes, supermarkets. He learned about the different types of fruits and vegetables sold there, and how the milk is not refrigerated, and enjoyed an entire aisle full of chocolates. The huge cheese displays made him salivate. He loved trying to read the signs and figure out prices too. By the end of the trip he was doing Euro to Dollars better than Lisa. He was also amused at how we had to pay for plastic shopping bags and wear plastic gloves to handle fruit.
  8. Blogging to his class. While we were away, he was sending emails and blogging to his classmates. Whenever we had decent WiFi, he would respond to his classmates questions. While we were in Pompeii, he actually took one of his classmates on a video tour of the  tombs via Skype.

PictureJet lag napping after a car to the plane to a taxi to the train.
Resting:

Basically, we had a talk to Lucas before the trip and told him that when he felt tired, not to fight it and have a catnap. This helped prepare him, so when in the car, he would nap for a short while then feel refreshed. Once in a railway station he was so exhausted, he gave in to my pleading just to lay his head down on his rolled up jacket right at our cafe table. He was out like a light for about 1/2 an hour which really helped him. More ideas:


  1. Keep a tight bedtime schedule. When it was time to go to bed, we made him. He usually fell asleep right away. No staying up late especially if we were getting an early morning start.
  2. In the car, we would tell Lucas to put his headset on and listen to some music. This definitely relaxed him. He would also watch some videos, which took his mind off of the hecktic traveling we were going through at that moment.
  3. Trains are easy. let them run around at first, play some video games, and then they will naturally get sleepy and have a nap.

ACCOMMODATIONS:

  1. Apartments are best: In large cities like Rome, most hotels are fine for children, but if you are staying for more than three or four days, I would suggest an apartment is better to afford the children a sense of "home" while they are far away from theirs. Don't forget to let them bring their stuffed buddies or special blanket. Lucas brought three of his stuffed dogs from his "dog pound" at home, but left Cushie, his favorite bear at home for fear of losing him.
  2. Separate rooms: If possible, give your kids their own rooms. This will give parents privacy when needed, but also allows you to get the kids to bed early while you stay up planning the next day, blogging, checking emails and the like--without interruptions. And set strict bedtimes. Remember, at the beginning of the trip their will be the jet lag factor.
  3. Agritourismos: These are basically working farms, although there is a rash of "luxury" agritourismos that are simply properties that have been rehabbed and turned into chic resorts with pools, cheap wines to buy and rarely much for children to do. A true argritourismo  is a working farm and gives the kids the opportunity to interact with farm animals, make cheese, help pick produce in the gardens, play with cats, dogs.... you get the idea. Many have classes just for kids... making cheese, making pasta, pizza, etc.
  4. Hotels: Hotels in Italy are, for the most part, simple affairs. The rooms are just rooms, with extra beds for the kids. They rarely have game rooms or pools. The in-house restaurants are often stuffy places, making families with kids feel unwelcome.  I would recommend against staying in hotels for traveling families.

TRANSPORTATION:

  1. Planes: In most cases, there are 7 seats to an aisle with jetliners flying to Italy. It would be best to book early enough to get an entire row, for up to a family of 2 parents and 5 kids. In this way you would have line of sight to all the kids without having to jump up and look around to check on the kids (and less disturbance to your neighbors.) It's also easier to get up to go to the rest room from 2 aisles. For our flights, we booked the center aisle or 3 across with myself and Lisa on either side of Lucas so he felt secure and confident on the flight. (We did have some scary moments of turbulence where he did a death grip of my hands for minutes at a time).  Introduce your kids to the rest rooms as soon as possible during the flight so they feel comfortable in case of the inevitable (we don't want them to hold it in, do we?) Definitely bring familiar snacks on board, especially for the departing trip.... and of course, bring their smart phones, tablets and such.  
  2. Car services and Taxis: Make sure they know they are in another country and coach them in trying our their Italian phrases, even if it's just squeaking out their little "grazie" when the driver holds the door for them. Suggest the ask questions... does the driver have kids? What sports do they like? Do they play Minecraft? These interactions can help them start enjoying the differences--or similarities--in the culture right away.
  3. Trains: Train stations are very busy places so keep your kids very close. You do not want them getting lost in a strange place when language might be a problem. If your child is old enough, make certain that they have a cell phone activated for Italy with your own cell number programmed into its memory. Practice them calling you in case they are lost. As for the rest, get them a hot chocolate and cornetto, find a nice spot to wait for the train and play word games until the train comes. Once on the train make sure they check out the rest rooms. On older trains they'll want to see that their #1 and #2 goes right onto the tracks. On the more modern ones, they'll love the futuristic buttons ans sliding doors.
  4. Car Rentals: If you have a large family, sure, go ahead and rent a mini-van. You'll need the space. But do the research beforehand and book the smallest car possible after considering number of passengers and trunk space for the pieces of luggage you are dragging along. (Most of us over pack when going to Europe, so consider paring things down!) For "we three", our favorite car was the best fit... a Fiat 500 L (Italians call it the "cinque cento Large"). Lucas loved the raised "theater seating" in back that improved his view. I loved the economy and the relative narrow size. (Wide vehicles don't fit well on Italy's narrow streets, and allow a little extra breathing room for Italians who pass down the middle of the road even if there are cars driving on both sides of the road.) I also loved that the glovebox was also a chiller for water or soda bottles! Don't forget to bring your favorite mp3 files. Most cars in Italy have accessory jacks for plugging them in. 

I hope this helps you plan for a trip with your kids. Kids are flexible when they fall, and very flexible when they travel. Besides, give your kids a trip to Italy and it will change their lives forever.

--Jerry

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And a bit of authentic music from Italia...

2/18/2015

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Tamborello (hand drum) and Zampogna (Italian bagpipe). Enjoy!
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Real Spaghetti Grows on Trees: Spaghetti Harvest

2/16/2015

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A vintage film of an authentic spaghetti harvest. Enjoy!
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Italian Cult... er... Culture, Customs and the Way Things Are Done in Italy

2/15/2015

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Just so you know how things are done in Italy, and so you aren't called a stranieri (foreigner) to your face, here's some customary ways of doing things when in the country of green, white and red:
If you are a femme fashionista, it is perfectly acceptable to wear 6-inch stilettos while negotiating the cobblestone streets.

Sneakers are never worn in public places (unless you're going shopping or to an amusement park).

Cappuccino is ordered before 11 am. It's considered a breakfast drink because it contains milk.

When ordering pasta dishes with fish, do not ask for Parmesan cheese. It's just not done. 

A restaurant in Tuscany chef will only make lasagna with béchamel cream--unless you pay extra.

A restaurant in the South will only use pomodoro (tomato) sauce in lasagna--unless you ask nicely.
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Limoncello is for “old ladies”--and tourists.

Prosecco should only be drunk before dinner (and after a hot air balloon ride). 

If you say you don't drink in Italy, you'll still get a glass of wine. It's equal to water.

Older men may drink wine with their morning cornetto--they've earned that right.

It's perfectly acceptable to buy a beer and drink it while filling your gas tank.

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Stop signs may be ignored. Same goes for stop lights. The same for no passing signs.

Strangers say buongiorno . Friends say ciao.

One shake is enough when meeting someone.

When meeting, a kiss on each cheek is acceptable--if you are close friends.
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If invited to an Italian's home for dinner, bring pastry, flowers or chocolates.

Never wear jeans to a church or classy restaurant.

Shorts are worn only at the beach. If you do wear them you'll be marked as a tourista.

Never telephone someone between 2 and 4 pm. They'll be napping.

Complimenting an Italian's baby is considered a curse if not followed by
"Dio la benedica" (God bless).
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Never place a loaf of bread upside down or stab it with a knife. It represents the body of Christ.

Laying a hat on someone's bed will cause a death.

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Italians do not keep birds as pets because of their malocchio (evil eye).
In snack shops and bars, order what you want first, pay for it at the cashier, then take the receipt to the person filling the orders. They will put a little tear in it so you don't try to use the receipt again.

In Italy having wall to wall carpets is thought of as being disgusting and unhealthy.
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Italian women think the rest of the world is rude not to have bidets.
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Wearing red underwear on New Year's Eve will bring love.

Drafts (called 'colpo d'aria' ) are considered life threatening, so wear a scarf or puffy jacket. 

If you hear a cat sneeze you are blessed with good luck.

Men should never shave on Friday. Women don't have to shave under their arms.

Fingernails should not be cut on a Thursday.
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If you hear a cat sneeze you are blessed with good luck.

A bride will accept cash to be danced with at her wedding. No credit cards, please.

It is polite to eat with forearms (not elbows) resting on the table.

It's considered rude to keep your hands in your lap at the dinner table.

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When picking out fruit to buy in a supermarket, you must put on plastic gloves. They supply them free.
You must pay for plastic bags at supermarkets--usually 10 cents Euro.

After picking out produce in a supermarket, you must go to a sticker machine and punch in the number for that item, then put the sticker on your bag (which you will pay for later).

In restaurants, you may "own" your table for the entire evening.

Italian waiters won't bring the check until you ask for it, and then they aren't in a rush to get it to you.
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Two Italian men walking arm in arm aren't necessarily gay, but are likely close friends or relatives.

In Italy you won't be able to find the end of a line because there isn't one.

Italians will point using all four fingers and consider pointing with one finger impolite.

A bar in Italy is more like a coffee shop or ice cream shop.

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Most young Italian men claim, "sono Cattolico ma non pratico"--they are Catholic but don't go to church.

Restaurants don't open until after what Americans think of as dinner time.

Restaurants will charge you for bread, water, butter, the tablecloth, forks, knives and plates.

Italians rarely leave tips.

Italians never cut spaghetti but twirl.

You may drink safely from public fountains with faucets attached.
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Texting while driving a car, taxi or scooter is acceptable and wide spread.

Everyone smokes. Everyone.

All unmarried Italian men and Mama's Boys and typically live with Mama until they get married.

Unlike the 10 or more children of our immigrant grandparents, Italians rarely have more than one child.


--Jerry Finzi

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When Life Gives Them Lemons, Italians Make Limoncello

2/11/2015

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The history of lemons in Sorrento an Amalfi
It's impossible to go to the Amalfi Coast or the Sorrento peninsula without seeing lemons and lemon products everywhere. There are terraced lemon groves carved into virtually every steep mountainside--you'll know the lemon groves by their dark netting hung over them. This helps to prevent frost damage in winter and sun scald in summer. Most Sorrento and Amalfi than lemons are larger than what we Americans are used to, but you will also see grotesque shaped lemons and absolutely gargantuan lemons, nearly the the size of a  football. There are highly acidic varieties along with some so low in acid and sweet that you can eat them as fruit. All lemons coming from Amalfi must be certified as being from the sfusato family of lemons (sfusato means spindle, describing the lemons' wool spindle shape).
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My homage to Magritte and Lemons
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The Giants of Amalfi. Did Odysseus defeat these giants, too?
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Lemons were well known to the Romans and Amalfi lemons were being tasted and written about in the 1600s. They were used on ships to prevent scurvy outbreaks. From this time onwards, lemon cultivation on a large scale transformed the rugged cliff sides of Sorrento and Amalfi into the terraced groves and villages that we see today. Production and harvesting was a village wide occupation, with women carrying loads of lemons as heavy as 100 pounds in baskets on their shoulders down--or up-to their village. Considering the steep steps and paths that wind their way throughout the rugged coastline, the cultivation was--and still is--a monumental task.  The port town of Minori shipped lemons to all parts of Italy.

When you get to Amalfi and Sorrento there will be no shortage of lemon products... scented soaps, flavored honeys,  lemon olive oil, perfumes, body wash, hard candy, marmalade, sodas, and of course, the famous Limoncello, a lemony drink that is even made in a lot of households around Amalfi--each having their own "secret" family recipe. As popular as Limoncello is, we didn't like the few we sampled as being very high proof and overpowering, reminding me of Grappa. A less alcoholic, (at around 16% alcohol) creamier version also exists, known as Crema di Limoncello, but we haven't tried it ourselves. Surprisingly, the drink came into being only about 100 years ago. It is made by combining lemon peels (the zest without the pith) with grain alcohol and letting the mixture steep for a month or more. Combining with a sugar syrup finishes the concoction.

And surely you will find the local cuisine takes full advantage of lemons... flavoring fish dishes, chicken, cakes, pastries, and custards  Lemons can flavor ricotta drizzled with honey and zest will be found on top of ravioli. Mozzarella is smoked between lemon leaves. There are a multitude of lemon themed products as well... ceramic plates and tiles, tableware, aprons, T-shirts, face creams, napkins, glassware, clothing... the list goes on.
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Limoncello is all about choice
Ok, so I thought for those of you who would like to try and have your own Amalfi adventure, I'd post a recipe for Limoncello...
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Ingredients for Amalfi Limoncello
10-12 organic lemons (you'll use the skins)
1 quart
pure grain alcohol (or Vodka)
2 quarts water
3 cups of sugar
Directions

  1. Rinse and dry the lemons. Peel the lemons with a sharp knife or lemon zester, being careful to use only the yellow part of the peel... the white part will make your limoncello bitter.
  2. Place the lemon zest in a glass container, add the alcohol, and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Hide it in a cool dark place for a month. Remember to check on it now and then and give the jar a little shake to distribute the lemon oil through the alcohol; after only a few days it will already take on a yellow color.
  3. After the month is up, make the syrup: bring the 2 liters of water to a simmer in a large pot, and pour in the sugar. Stir to completely dissolve. Set aside to completely cool.
  4. Strain the alcohol & lemon peel mixture through a fine sieve. Strain the alcohol liquid again through a paper towel or coffee filter over a funnel.In a large glass container, mix the cool sugar syrup with the alcohol.
  5. Put the jar of limoncello back in its cool dark hiding place for at least a week and up to another month (if you want the authentic stuff, then YES, another month).
  6. If the mixture is cloudy, you will need to filter it again. Then taste the limoncello. If it seems right, then it's ready to be bottled (if not, add more sugar syrup to taste.)
  7. Pour the limoncello into smaller bottles and keep one in the freezer for drinking, while the others can be stashed away for gifts.
  8. Limoncello seems to mellow as it ages, so the longer you keep it the better it gets.

There you have it... enjoy, and cent'anno!   --Jerry Finzi

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Hand Gestures: Speaking Italian Like a Native, Without Words

2/6/2015

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PictureGiancarlo Gianini
We've all seen Italians talking with their hands, waving them wildly in the air, sometimes right into the face of the person they are talking to. To the onlooker it seems random, yet it does seem tied into their facial expressions, which will change swiftly depending on the gesture being used. It's led people to paint a caricature of every Italian, although most Italian Americans don't have a clue about this unwritten language. Yes, it's a language in and of itself.

PictureMarcello Mastroianni
Where did it start. What's the reason?

It more than likely started in the port cities of Italy after the Roman Empire. I say after, because before that Latin was a widely spread language. After the fall of the Roman Empire, imported languages started taking over, as conquerors and
immigrants came from many different parts of the ancient world: The Carolingians (mixing early German and French into northern Italy), The Visigoths (mixing German, Spanish and French), the Normans (descending from Vikings from Northern France, they took over Southern Italy), Saracens (Muslims that invaded southern Italy and settled in Sicily), the German tribes (in pre-Christian times and in the middle ages), French (taking over northern Italy in the 1400s) and Austrians.  leaving Latin behind.

Latin itself morphed into what we now call the Italian language. But even "modern" Italy didn't become a cohesive nation until the 1860s, and still today Italians are very region-centric, with many varied dialects still spoken throughout the country. One example I witnessed is on the train from Bari to Rome. The announcements were in three languages: English, Italian and Southern Dialect. And believe me, Dialect sounds very different than "proper" Italian--my Dad spoke it. 
My Mom couldn't understand him.

Again, the port cities, like Naples, Venice, Bari or Palermo needed a way to communicate with the many different people, all speaking different tongues. 
Every so often a a new population and ruling class would be established, depending on who the conqueror was. Hand gestures became a necessity in Italy, and it remains today a large part of how people communicate. For this reason, this might make things easier on travelers to Italy as Italians have many ways of getting people to understand what they are saying.

Finally, here is a charming Italian gent illustrating the many subtleties of hand gestures. You could learn to have an entire conversation without words!


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