A Commentary and Suggestions

We need to understand this wonderful culture. I understand how Italians think of time as a flowing river and not a commodity to spend nor save. I understand about the midday heat--it's a very hot and humid country. In the past when agriculture was the major part of most Italians lives, it was respectful of nature and biological rhythms to rest in the middle of the day rather than waste a body's resources to the heat of the day.

But this is a modern Italy. There is air conditioning--that actually works! (In fact, we recently installed the same type of air conditioning units as in Italy, which are efficient and effective!) Italians have the beauty and history of Italy to grow the their economy--through tourism. Consider that tourists from other countries have certain expectations, even those visiting to explore your wonderful lifestyle.

There might be a certain degree of lost jobs profits in your riposa--but I am speaking only of areas where tourism is a mainstay of your local economy. There is a way to embrace your culture while growing your nation and moving forward to the benefit of all Italians. The World Travel & Tourism Council says that tourism brings in over $203 billion a year for Italy, an impact larger than that of the communication services, chemicals manufacturing, automotive manufacturing, higher education, and mining industries.

My advice to Italians:  Keep your shops and restaurants open during the day in tourism dependent areas. Embrace the idea of employees taking turns with their lunch breaks. Find ways to truly serve the tourists that are bringing so much wealth to your country without expecting them to just put up with lack of comfort or proper services just because that's the status quo.

On another touchy subject: Ensure that public rest room facilities and trains have fixtures that are as functional and beautiful as your homes and the apartments we rented. Make certain they are well stocked with toilet paper--and toilet seats. To be honest, some public toilets were simply shameful. And please put an end to the squat-down, so called "Turkish toilet". Please? It's not great for handicapped or the aged among us.

As for restaurants, we want to experience your cuisine--not fast food chains. Support the Slow Food efforts in your country and  your local restaurateurs by helping them realize that by staying open during hours when visitors to Italy are used to eating, that will only help your economy. I'm not saying to change your entire way of life... just adapt to your main market--tourists.

I write this with tutto dovuto rispetto, and with a goal to share your wonderful culture with as many voyagers as possible.

--Jerry Finzi


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from Italy Magazine...

by Silvia Donati

New rooms opening, a valuable collection finally on view, compelling exhibitions, and, alas, a price increase: here’s what’s new at the Uffizi for 2018.

Let’s start with some not-so-good news: peak season ticket prices (March 1 through October 31) are now €20 (an increase of more than 50% since they previously cost €8). (If you travel in the low season - November 1 to February 28 - then the cost drops to €12.)  
But hey, art is priceless, and the art contained in the Uffizi even more so.

And now there’s even more incredible art to see there, thanks to the opening of eight new rooms devoted to Caravaggio and 17th-century painting. Painted in a bright cinnabar red meant to evoke the fervor of that century, but also a color that was often used in fabrics and wallpapers depicted in paintings at the time, the rooms contain such Caravaggio masterpieces as La Medusa, Il Bacco and Il Sacrificio di Isacco, alongside works by Annibale Carracci, Guido Reni, Gherardo Delle Notti, Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck, and Artemisia Gentileschi, in a confrontation between Florentine and Italian art with European art.

More welcome news comes with the recent opening to the general public of ...

Read MORE HERE...

If you are a world traveler, a lover of art and have someone special with oddball, special sensitivities--just like you--then perhaps here is a gift your lover will really love. A fully articulated Michelangelo's David Action Figure by Figma. Well know to nerds and comic book fans worldwide, Figma produces both static and pose-able action figures of nearly every type of pulp, TV and movie hero. But now, in their Table Museum series, they are offering several classical art sculptures as articulated models.

The David is the fourth artwork to join the series along with Venus de Milo and Rodin's The Thinker. David has smooth, pose-able joints that can move from his classic pose to an endless variety of action poses. Even his eyes can be moved to change the direction of his gaze. A special base and arm parts are included for the classic pose, but various other hand parts are also included. His sling is also included, allowing you to pose him ready to take a shot.

The first in the their series was the Le Penseur (The Thinker) by Rodin. For the first time after pondering his problem, the Thinker can actually get up and do something about it! But for Valentine's Day, perhaps you'd like to see him with a special someone... How about a wonderful Goddess from the Greek island of Milos--Venus herself. Of course, you'd get the classic upper torso without arms, but in her kit you also get additional parts such as her missing arm parts, an apple and various hand parts.

Pose your Venus with the bronzed body of Thinker or pair her with The David. Either way, these are unique gifts for that special someone who is also an art lover.

Available on Amazon.



Happy Valentine's Day...

--Jerry Finzi

We planned on going to Italy even before our son, Lucas was born, but because of a sudden illness, we had to call it off. Then in 2014, we planned our three week Voyage to Italy, but this time, with our 12 year old son along with some typical goals... see the art, architecture, learn the history and search out my father's roots in Molfetta down in Puglia. We knew it would be a great time, giving us fantastic memories, but as this blog shows, it has changed our lives in many ways. Here are a few ways that a Voyage to Italy might change you forever:

1. If you thought you were eating "Italian food" before, you'll learn that you were wrong. Chicken parmesan, spaghetti and meatballs and pasta swimming in Alfredo sauce are not Italian dishes. You'll realize that if--and when--you eat these, you are really enjoying Italian-American dishes. A totally different thing.
2. You will appreciate fresh pasta more--especially if you make it yourself.
3. You will at long last really know how to slow down.
4. You won't want to pay extremely high prices for restaurants after learning how easy it is to implement the simple philosophy of Italian food preparation in your own kitchen.
5. You will learn that you can get along with less... more fresh food requires a smaller fridge; you don't need a huge gas-guzzling car; and that 22' high entrance hall in your McMansion will start to seem very ridiculous.
6. You will learn to recognize opportunities to relax and take in a view--learning to always make time to soak in the simple pleasures like a vista, a sunset, beautiful architecture or natural wonders.
7. You will be humbled at your place in history after seeing buildings still standing--and often still being used--after 2000 years. The oldest structures (Pennsylvania stone colonials) in my area are no more than 300 years old.
8. Your lunches will seem amazingly inadequate and short. You will want to have a job close enough to allow you to go home for lunch.
9. You will begin to understand the Italian meaning behind your own "bella figura" and always try to appear well attired and attractive rather than going out in public in sweat pants and unkempt, wet hair.
10. You will learn the advantage of a mid-day nap.
11. You will want to have simpler breakfasts... an espresso and a sweet pastry.
12. You might start keeping your home neater and cleaner. Italians even remove their shoes when home, walking on well cleaned tile floors.
13. You will want to make your own pizzas, and when you don't, you will want to order individual pizzas with simpler toppings... basil, prosciutto, fresh mozzarella.
14. You will want to learn all about soccer and watch international matches.
15. You will begin to see how much of an overpriced, un-Italian joke Starbucks really is.
16. You will no longer drink to excess, but rather have a cocktail or two (perhaps a Negroni?) with friends. You will start to select your bottles of wine based on how well they pair with your meals. Beer will lose its appeal.
17. You will eat more slowly, especially in good restaurants.
18. You will learn how to pronounce Italian words properly: broosh-KET-ah rather than broosh-etta, ree-COTT-ah rather than ri-cutta and eS-PRES-so instead of eX-presso.
19. A measly two week vacation will seem very inadequate after learning of the mandatory 31 days given to Italian workers.
20. You will never be satisfied by the fruit and veggies in your local supermarket again.
21. You will learn to absolutely love cheeses--especially from sheep.
22. American sodas will forever taste too sweet to you.
23. You will never be afraid or timid on the road again. You will drive with the confidence of a Grand Prix race driver.
24. You will learn to taste your food before automatically putting salt on it.
25. If you've always thought that complex French cuisine was the ultimate in fine dining and cooking, you'll find yourself replacing that whole view with the simplicity of Italian techniques.
26. The peanut butter will be shoved to the rear of the shelf, while Nutella comes to the front.
27. You will want to have meals with larger numbers of family and friends than ever before.
28. If you're a guy, you will feel fine about giving your friends big hugs and expect the same back.
29. Men... you might want to try wearing a Speedo again.
30. You will find yourself thinking about time in a different way... when it flows past, like a river, there is nothing you can do to get it back. There's always domani.
31. If you've never cooked before--you will. If you have cooked before, you will cook better.
32. You will never look at supermarket variety olive oils in the same way again.
33. You will have learned how a walk after dinner is good for your soul, your family and your health.
34. You will want to ask your family elders about their past, their romances, their family history and of course, you'll want them to write down their recipes for you.
35. If you're a man, you will compliment women more--even your mother. If you're a woman, you'll flirt more.
36. You will look at older people differently, and possibly even look forward to that stage in your own life.
37. You will find yourself learning more and more Italian words and phrases... and perhaps take a lesson or two, in preparation for your next trip back to Italy.

--Jerry Finzi

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When we traveled throughout Italy, we found either no Internet access and barely any TV, or when they existed, they were usually satellite or antenna based systems--read: S L O W. In large cities, like Rome or Florence, no problem. There were decent speeds and a decent number of cable channels--often the internet packages are bundled with TV. Our best Internet and TV was in our Rome rental apartment--our worst was in rural areas of Campania, Basilicata and Puglia.

Out in the countryside, in small villages all over Italy, we would see satellite dishes or small flat antenna units mounted on roofs that picked up the signals from either a satellite hovering above in space, or a tall tower in the nearby local area--a Wide Area Network of sorts. 

Even when there is a decent connection, the WiFi system inside homes and hotels can be terribly slow with buggy connections. The reason is the thick, stone walls that most structures are made out of. It's a simple task to send WiFi throughout the three floors of my American 1868 vintage brick and timber home (and much more so in standard stud framed and dry-walled track homes), but WiFi signals don't pass through 1-2 foot thick stone walls and 2" thick clay tile floors easily.

Boosting the quality, stability and speed of broadband internet service is needed by most regions of Italy, not only for the locals, but for tourists who might be used to more reliable internet connections. It would also be a boon to business travelers, saving money to avoid cell phone data charges for mobile hot-spot use.

In 2012, it was reported that Italy ranked dead last in Europe when it came to truly high speed broadband coverage. In the rest of Europe, anywhere from 27% to 54% subscribe to services with speeds at 30Mbps or above. Italy? Only 14%. 

The Italian government is at long last partnering with telecom companies to fix the problem. The project is called Fiber for Italy project initially will reach 20 million people in Italy's 15 largest cities, followed by another 138 cities by 2018. The government has also started the Italia Digitale project, which will provide at least 50% of Italians with high-speed internet access by 2020. They even plan on extending the resulting fiber-optic network to rural areas, hopefully putting an end to tower and satellite based systems.

The Fiber for Italy project has three main objectives: implementing a digital national register, a database of all of Italy's citizens (will Grande Fratello be watching?); introducing a system that allows public sector suppliers submit invoices digitally; and creating a single digital identity for Italians to use when they interact with the state—no more separate logins for dealing with different government services.

Italians and tourists alike might have to wait for a few more years, but barring an Italexit, the collapse of the Euro, and with a real financial commitment (one company's bid is almost one billion dollars), perhaps high speed fiber-optic technology will finally arrive in the land of gelato, Michelangelo's David, pasta and pizza.

--Jerry Finzi

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Italy is hot--nearly tropical-hot. Pretty much all over the country, too. It's a real task to stay cool in Italy--a country where ice cubes in a drink are thought to give a mal di stomaco, causing tourists to ask for ice in their warm glasses of soda; air conditioning is rarely turned on, or when it is on, is set to 75 degrees (when it exists at all, that is); where a 68 degree evening is considered cold; where Italians don their puffy jackets and scarves when most Americans are in T-shirts and shorts; and where people eat such large, heavy lunches during summer that they need to close up shop and go home to take a nap for a few hours with their shutters drawn against the midday sun.

Before we took our trip to Italy, I researched the weather extensively... or so I thought. I had all sorts of long range forecasts, histories of statistics of previous years' weather and temps,  and even got first hand personal advice from Italians and travelers on the many online travel forums I frequented at the time. Nothing prepared me for the heat and humidity we encountered... and this was during three weeks in October! We saw many days in the 90s, usually with high humidity.

This got me thinking of my niece and her son... they are taking a tour of Italy and Greece in July. July! OMG! I don't know if I could do all the things we did in Italy in the heat of summer. Even in October, Pompeii was roasting us (thank the Lord for those fresh water fountains that were there), Amalfi made us sweat more than we thought our bodies could, and the Vatican Tour exhausted us beyond belief due to the extra BTUs produced by the throngs of tour groups pressing bodies like cattle trying to get through those narrow, un-airconditioned, stuffy, humid palace halls.

Curiously, in the southern province of Puglia, it seemed cooler than up in Tuscan or Rome--the sea breezes kept us more comfortable. Walking the streets of Rome we found especially grueling (like Manhattan, big cities hold heat), but not as awful as I imagine it must be to deal with the summer heat in Italia. In fact, summer temperatures in Rome can reach as high as 104F!

So I would strongly recommend when planning a trip to Italy that you plan it in the shoulder season months in early spring--March, April, May--or the fall during late September, all of October up to the first 2 weeks of November. After that, the rainy season comes to most of Italy.

But in case you have to be in Italy during summer, I've put together some tips on beating the heat when in Italy during the hottest months... especially helpful for those of you traveling with very young or older people susceptible to overheating and exhaustion.

Avoid Long Lines When Possible:

There are many things to see in Rome, Florence and the rest of Italy that don't require standing on long lines. Think out of the box. Even if you throw away your "must see" list of the top tourist attractions, you will still enjoy yourself and get a good taste of Italian life.
Don't plan anything that requires long lines. I know this rules out things like the Vatican, the Uffizi in Florence, but believe me, I witnessed the long lines in October and can't imagine how much longer they get in the high tourist season. The lines at the Vatican can be three hours long unless you have booked a private tour, and even though St Peters is free to all, everyone has to go through the long lines for a security check... up to 3 hours in high season.  You can try going either early (before 9am) or later in the afternoon when the tourist groups are gone. They are open until 7pm, so if you get there for 5pm you'll have shorter lines and still have some time to walk through. On Sunday's if you want to attend mass, again, the earlier the better.

Drink Water, Lots of Water:

You should bring a refillable bottle and trust the fountains for refilling your bottle unless it says "non potabile". Buying water bottles or sodas at tourist snack wagons will begin to add up, so refilling your own will help hold down costs. (I recommend this Thermos brand bottle. With some ice it keeps drinks icy cold for hours). Select a travel bag with a large enough drink bottle pocket. You won't always find a vendor or bar when you need one, but you will find water fountains... many times, ancient Roman ones with brass faucets sticking out of them. Consider bringing a bandanna that you can wet and tie around your neck, or fold and soak it and put it under your kids' caps. Lucas loved this technique for keeping cool.

Think Like an Italian and take a Riposa:

Italians don't go out in the hottest part of the day. They take long 3 hour lunches called a riposa--a siesta, if you will. Most go home for lunch. Think like an Italian and don't plan a lunch in small towns after 12 noon or you won't be able to find a restaurant open for lunch (in larger cities like Rome or Florence this isn't a problem). But in most other towns, look for bars--in Italy, a bar is a place to get snacks, pastries, sandwiches and espresso. Plan picnic lunches and a rest period in the middle of the hot day. Sit under a tree, have your lunches, dangle your feet in a stream or fountain, or plan to visit a cool church. It's a bit cooler inside old castles and churches with their thick walls and marble floors. When you can, get out early to get your tourist things done, relax back in your hotel of rental apartment like an Italian, then go to museums and such after 4pm when most of the tour buses and cruise ship crowds are long gone.

Don't Walk During Midday:

Do your long walks in the morning and late in the day when the sun is low. Plan indoor things for midday... or even plan on spending restful time in your air conditioned hotel room until later in the day. You won't miss anything... Rome, Florence, Pisa, Amalfi, Venice... they're all still there later in the day and in the evening--and less crowded.

Water Pistols:

Yes, I'm serious. If you're traveling with a few little ones, pack a couple of small, good quality water pistols and let them shoot each other to their little hearts' content. They will have less tantrums and meltdowns if they're getting cool by getting wet. (On occasion, I'd sprinkle some water down my boy's neck to cool him down).  If you're tight on space, pack a couple of kitchen sized plastic hypos. They can suck water up from a fountain and shoot pretty far with these things.

Italian Water Parks:

Yes, they have water parks in Italy too. Beautiful, big ones. Personally, I think this would be something a family might want to do only if they are staying for an extended period of time in Italy... after all, it's not like you'd experience anything about the Italian culture in a modern water park. But if you are staying in a hub location for three weeks or more, you might want to take a break and treat the family to some wet, cool fun at a local water park.

For example, just to the east of Venice in the resort beach town of Jesolo is Aqualandia, a large seaside water park 2 huge lagoon sized pools with a tropical island and other water slide attractions. One of the oldest and most famous water parks is Aquafan in Riccione one quarter of the way down the Adriatic coast side of the Boot.  Again, I'd only recommend this for long term stays in Italy when your family needs a break from all the typical tourist activities and just wants to let loose and cool down. Personally, water theme parks are not my thing... I'd rather hit the real beaches in Italy...

 Shady Side of the Street:

Only "Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun"--that's what Noel Coward said. I'm sorry to say that my wife hasn't a clue as to what side of the street to walk on when it's hot and sunny. Lucas and Lisa might get miffed when I  turn a corner and abruptly say "let's walk on the other side". They don't notice the broiling sun on one side and the shade trees on the other. Maybe I notice because I'm a lot older than both of them put together, I'm carrying more weight than ever before, and have that little balding spot that burns way too easily when I forget my cap.  Perhaps the other reason is because light is my science--being a professional photographer. I pay attention to light and shadows.  Walk on the shady side and stay 15 - 20 degrees cooler. Some walks in Rome, for instance, are on very long, sunny boulevards. If you're lucky enough to be walking in a town like Bologna, you can walk for 0ver 40 miles of arcades and stay out of the sun.

Pack a Portable Fan:

A battery operated fan can be useful in many situations when traveling in Italy during the summer. You can use it on a train, especially regional lines whose air conditioning or ventilators might not be operating properly. You can put it on your table during meals pointing right at your face and neck. You can use it in hotel rooms where the A/C isn't up to snuff. If you've just endured a long walk up to the Centro Storico of a hilltown, you can find a shady place to sit, pop out your portable fan and cool down for a few minutes until your body temperature comes down a bit. Hint: Wipe your face and neck with a Wet One and enjoy the cooling evaporative effect as you point the fan at yourself.

Take a Head Shower:

When you are at your body's limits on how much heat you can endure, look for a public potable water fountain and hold your head under it... wetting your hair and all. If you're sweaty and worn out looking anyway, who cares about how your wet hair will look... just think about how refreshing it will feel. This type of head shower will work especially well in the public fountains in places like Pompeii or towns like Lucca.

Taxis and Car Services:

By all means, learn how to get a taxi in the large cities. Most cities like Rome have taxi stands where taxis wait on the cue (the one in front is the next one to take a fare). You don't hail a taxi in Rome unless they have a legal place to pull over. They are very affordable and will save both your feet and your sweat glands. Take a taxi up to a city center and then meander casually back to your starting point. In case your driver doesn't have his air conditioner set cool enough, ask "il condizionatore d'aria ... più fresco per favore?" (the air conditioner... cooler please?)

For more about taxis in Rome, read Rome Taxiphobia: Much Ado About Nothing.

Besides taxi stands, ask your hotel for the numbers of the best radio taxi services. They work like Uber--call them, tell them your location (more often, you need to do this in Italian!) and they will show up within minutes. The taxi meter starts running when the taxi driver starts out toward your location. You can also try Uber in Rome and Florence.

In places like the Amalfi Coast, use a car service instead of using the bus. The buses are not always on time and you might find yourself waiting for a long time standing in the bright sun on the side of a very narrow, busy, curvy road.

One Word... GELATO:

That's right. One of the easiest ways to cool down is find a gelateria (which won't be too hard as they are everywhere and pretty much are always open) and ask for a scoop (or two) of your favorite flavor. I'm sure you'll even find flavors that you didn't know were your favorite! And don't worry about gelato spoiling your kid's appetites. Gelato, although having less air makes it taste richer than ice cream, is far lower in fat and sugar than ice cream. Have gelato at 5 or 6pm before the 7:30 Italian dinnertime starts. And there's a lot more than just gelato... granita, semifreddo, sorbetto, grattachetta, shakerato (ice espresso). Check out my blog post Frozen... to learn more.

Close the Shutters:

If you are staying in a hotel room or apartment or villa, they will most likely all have shutters. In the U.S. shutters have devolved into being only a decoration, screwed in the open position. In Italy they actually work and are a necessity. Close shutters in your rooms before going out for the day and your home away from home will be cooler when you get back. This is especially important for the midday period. There are a lot of family lunches and naps going on behind all those drawn shutters in Italian towns.

Take Rest Stops on Steps and Inclined Walkways:

There are lots of steps and sloped walkways in Italy. Hilltowns are everywhere. If you are driving, most parking lots are outside the lower party of hilltowns--you aren't permitted to drive in the historic centers (centro storico). There will be a lot of walking uphill and lots of steps. For example, in Positano (on the Amalfi Coast) there are over 2000 steps that many climb to get high above the town to see the amazing views of the sea. On the Isle of Capri there are steep switchback paths that you need to walk to get down to the beach.  Many towns in Italy have similar paths that used to be used for donkeys but are still used for getting from one place to another.

Air Conditioning:

Air conditioning in Italy isn't the same as here at home. First of all, Italians don't like drafts and might keep the air conditioning turned off completely or the temperature set at 78F (25C) instead 68F (20C). I even ran into one hotel that had a master control... you had to call the desk to have them turn it on, and they couldn't change the thermostat. It was one set temperature that definitely wasn't refreshing at all. If their system is broken down, chances are it won't be fixed during your stay.
 
The best air conditioning I've found is in the bigger cities and from "split duct" systems... the kind where you see a big bulky air handler unit mounted high on one wall. The radiator-looking systems barely cool at all. You might inquire about they type of air conditioning before booking an apartment, especially if you're planning a longer stay.  Even in shops, restaurants and museums, I found most air conditioning systems to be way under par from what we're used to in the States. When you do find a very cool setup, savor it... you may not find it again.

The Italian Coast and Beaches:

There are 4722 miles of coastline in Italy, some of it are rugged and rocky, but most of it are beaches... everything from fine snow white sand to pink, to black to pebbles to rocky. You can take your pick from the chic Lido beaches of Venice to the Italian Riveria to the miles of pristine sand and rocky cove beaches of Puglia.  Some beaches are packed like sardines with Italian families on their August holiday, many are overbuilt and crowded, while much of the Italian coastline (including Sicily and Sardinia) have mile after mile of some of the most unspoiled beaches anywhere in the world. And the great thing is (as in Puglia) many are just there for the taking. Free. Mother nature's gift to the tired and overheated traveler. If you want a natural beach experience, check out the Maremma in Tuscany (A Tuscan Beach Vacation: The Maremma). Don't forget to pack swim suits for summer travel!

Head North to the Italian Alps:

For nature lovers, trekkers, bikers and even skiers (at higher elevations), there is a great opportunity to stay cool in the Italian summer--the Italian Alps. With over 300 sunny days a year and much cooler temperatures than the rest of Italy, the Italian Alps, with its mix of Italian and South Tyrolean cuisine, is a wonderful way to beat the heat. The food here very different--there might be risotto, lardo (an paper thin-sliced herbed, cured lard) fonduta (Italian style fondue), Canederli (a sort of Matzo ball dumpling in broth), fontina and goat cheeses, sausages, wines and of course, beer. But the real star of the show up north is the world famous, UNESCO World Heritage Dolomites--amazing, jagged pinnacles jutting up from the top of Italy's boot. While there, you can ride cable cars up from the valley or enjoy adventure sports like paragliding, zip-lining, mountain climbing, river rafting and glacier trekking.

Forget the Soda and Drink Gassata:

First of all, American style sweet sodas might taste the same in Italy, but can be very costly, especially when purchased at street vendors in tourist areas and in restaurants. Another thing on sodas... you will not find diet soda. I didn't see one brand of diet soday in all of Italy when we were there. Instead, order large bottles of "gassata" or "frizzante" (both mean sparkling water). Order one large bottle with meals. If you want plain water, order a bottle of "aqua naturale". Add the word "fresci" or "freddo" to ensure that the bottle they bring has "fresh" or "cold" come from a fridge. Local alimentari (grocery stores) will have large bottles of gassata in their cooler or you can buy a large bottle to bring back to your hotel fridge. The only other soda I'd recommend in Italy is Fanta Aranciata (orange). It is different in Italy--and better--made with natural orange juice... a light, refreshing, sparkling orangeade.  Personally, I find the Sanpellegrino orange and lemon sodas way too acidic.

So, if you insist on going to Italy during the hottest time of the year, please stay cool and slow down. You might even have to knock some things off your list, but you'll have a much better time and stay healthier.

Stay cool, or as Italians put it, mantenere il sangue freddo! (Keep your blood cool)

--Jerry Finzi

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In Italy, Internet service is rare, sluggish and prone to weather-related problems (most services are satellite based systems--easier to install with all those stone walls). But soon there may be another option to get connected while visiting your favorite tourist sites. 
Even though Italy is short on cash, in 2017 it is going to start providing high-speed internet access at major tourist attractions, including all of its UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Also in the plan to get connected: seaside resorts, historic cities, airports and train stations. 

But is this just a scheme to get Italian Big Brother watching and following even more people? The Italian government in fact wants to create a nationwide WI-fi network, which users can access via a single personal login, but according to La Repubblica, such a system will allow data to be collected on where tourists are spending their time, and perhaps it's own citizens.

Officials claim that the system would make it easier for people to enjoy Italy's natural and cultural attractions. According to Antonello Giacomelli, from the Economic Development Ministry,  "We need to integrate services as much as possible because the digital element is part of the complete visitor experience."

Really? My son Lucas, my wife and I just used our imaginations and our own senses to delve into the history and majesty of the Colosseum when we visited--I had no desire to get on my smart phone to do some surfing. We already have Google tracking us like this. If I even look at a camera I'm interested in, I will then be barrages with camera ads on virtually every site I go onto that uses Googles data. I wouldn't want that after visiting historic sites in Italy (or the Taj Mahal, for that matter... apparently, this is a worldwide effort linking public WiFi with data mining and advertising).

Italy has more World Heritage Sites than any other country--51 at this writing--from Pompeii and Herculaneum, to Palladian villas, the cave city of Matera and Sicily's Mount Etna.

This project is odd when you consider that Italy has a problem with state funding for the upkeep of its historic sites and have already used corporate moneys to restore the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain and more. Perhaps it's a scheme to sell the data from such a national WiFi system to pay for their maintenance.

As for me, I don't need WiFi when visiting such sites and soaking in the historic significance and culture.

Turn off your smart phones and just feel the history beneath your feet!


--Jerry Finzi

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Copyright Jerry Finzi/Grand Voyage Italy - 2016

When shopping in Italy, or any country in the EU, you will always be paying the VAT (Value Added Tax), or, as it's called in Italy, the IVA. Look at the bottom of your Italian shopping receipt and you'll see the tax line item for the IVA. Keeping track of these receipts--and the tax you paid for your purchases--could save you money the next time you travel in Italy. All European Union have a VAT that they levy on purchases, with each country setting its own rate. The VAT rate in Italy is currently at 22%, and will rise to 24% in 2017. The tax is applied to travel expenses, meals, and merchandise. As you can see, that 22% can really start to add up. The good news is that if you are not a resident of the EU, you can get some of that VAT money back. You see, tourists aren't obliged to pay the tax, but because the VAT/IVA is incorporated into the price of nearly everything you purchase, the tax is simply part of the purchase price... the only way to get it back is filling out forms, and following the somewhat complex rules.

What Purchases Qualify for a VAT Refund in Italy?

First, you cannot get a refund on the tax on accommodations or food in Italy.  There is an exception when traveling for business in Europe, but we won't get into that here. Any other purchases you make in Italy where you see the “IVA” added, are eligible for a VAT refund at the end of your vacation, including souvenirs, ceramics, clothing, jewelry, leather and even some services.

Keep in mind that there’s a minimum amount required in order to claim an IVA/VAT refund--currently in Italy the minimum purchase amount to submit a VAT refund is €154.94--all spent in one store at one time. So, for instance, if I want to buy an Italian guitar while in Italy, this would fit right in. It would also work when buying ceramics in a single shop Vetri Sul Mare on the Amalfi Coast--a town with many ceramics craftsmen (but won't work if buying a few things in several different shops). There are many interesting and unique shops in Rome, Venice or Florence that have a wide array of gifts perfect for the Voyager--either for yourself or gifts for loved ones back home. Planing your shopping sprees in shops that have a wide array of products is a great way to make purchase in one shop beyond the €154.94 minimum.

Other rules also need to be followed:

• Anything you bring back out of the EU is for personal use only (how would they know?)
  
• Purchases must be able to be exported (carried) in your personal luggage (If packed in your check-in luggage, you must open them at customs).
  
• Items must be reported and go through customs.
• Items must leave the EU within three months of the date of the purchase.

There are actually many merchants that will instantly remove the IVA tax as soon as you show them your Non-EU passport. Use your passport as leverage, making them believe you won't make the purchase if they won't remove the tax amount. This is one way to circumvent the entire refund process. But many vendors simply don't want to bother with the paperwork on their end. Keep in mind, however, that even if the merchant is willing to take the VAT amount off the purchase price, you’ll still need to get the receipt stamped at customs before you leave the country. Keep your receipts with each item purchased.

How to Get a VAT Refund in Italy

Here's why many people don't even bother about getting a refund--it can be a real hassle.

First, you need to ask the vendor about getting a VAT refund before leaving the shop. They  need to give you a separate receipt--a copy known as a fattura--in addition to the one that comes out of the cash register. The fattura should include your name (use your passport as I.D.) and the amount of the IVA/VAT tax for the purchase. If there are blanks on the “fattura” for you to fill out, ask what information you need to fill in. Keep all forms and receipts, including the additional “fattura” receipts, in a secure place.

Ok... now part requires extra time at the airport when leaving Italy:

Gather together all your purchases (a soft, collapsible duffle works well for smaller carry-on purchases that might be fragile or valuable), along with their respective receipts and forms and then bring them to the local customs office at the airport.

When it’s your turn at the front of the special customs line, you’ll present all your receipts (and your purchased goods for inspection, if that’s required) and they’ll stamp everything. You then need to get those stamped receipts back to the merchant where you initially purchased the items. Yes--believe it or not. Many bigger stores work with companies with branches at airports and other international gateways in Italy (Global Refund and Premier Tax Free are two of the most common), which means you’ll need to take your stamped receipts to the appropriate agency’s office in the airport in order to get a refund on the VAT. You’ll either get a refund in cash right then, or they’ll refund your credit card. They take a small cut of the total amount. If, on the other hand, the merchant from whom you made your purchase doesn’t work with one of those in-airport agencies, then you’ll need to mail your receipts back to them directly, either from the airport before you leave or from home. 

I know what you're thinking... That you may never hear from the merchant again and never see a refund anyway. This is possible, but many shops are fairly honest and will honor the request for a VAT refund. You might get a refund sent to you in Euros, requiring a fee for converting to dollars again. Complicated, right? This is why many people forget about VAT refunds. It is a real hassle. Of course, this is even more incentive to use your Passport as leverage when making the original purchases... try really hard to get them to take the VAT off voluntarily, or you won't buy. It does work.

How Do I Avoid All This Hassle?

The best way to avoid the hassle is to shop in stores that display a Tax Free Shopping or Euro Tax Free sign in their window. There are enough shops with this logo displayed in the larger Italian cities to satisfy your shopping needs.

In these Tax Free Shopping stores, you’ll need to show your passport when you make your purchase, and they will give you a check for the VAT amount along with the receipt for the goods. When you get to the airport, you’ll need to go to the line at the customs office for VAT refunds and have your receipts stamped, and then take the receipts--along with the  check the merchant gave you--to the “Tax Free” booth in the airport where they’ll give you cash for that check. These booths are typically near the airport’s Duty-Free Shop. That's a bit easier, right?

Tax Free Shopping Card...  No need to fill in paperwork in shops!

Ok, so after going through all of the above, here's an even simpler way to do some tax free shopping in Italy...

Whether you’re a frequent international shopper or planning a special trip abroad, you can easily save both time and money when you shop tax free with the new Shop Tax Free Blue Card. Membership is free!

The Shop Tax Free Blue Card allows you to claim your tax savings without the hassle of filling in Tax Free Forms by hand in busy shops each time you buy something. With a swipe of your card all your details will automatically be filled out on your Tax Free Form which is then printed out for you by the sales assistant.  In this way, language communication problems and mistakes are avoided and you save time and money for a more convenient and enjoyable Tax Free Shopping trip.

Global Blue works with around 270,000 stores worldwide so you can enjoy the benefits at participating shops and take advantage of member only promotions.

LINK: Shop Tax Free Blue Card sign-up

 There's an App for Tax Refunds

The Global Blue App from Google Play (for Android) and iOS (for iPhone and iPad) connects travelers to the world of Tax Free Shopping with just one click. Global Blue’s app will guide travelers to the very best stores in many European cities, with full contact details and interactive maps. You can search the app for stores by location, product or brand.

The Global Blue App also helps a shopper to figure out their savings with the Tax Refund Calculator and step-by-step instructions on how to complete the Tax Free Shopping service. A re-engineered Refund Tracker is coming soon. Do a search in your favorite app store on Global Blue.

So, there you have it... a fairly intensive introduction to getting your VAT taxes refunded in Italy. For more information: Global Blue Q&A

--Jerry Finzi

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Copyright Jerry Finzi/Grand Voyage Italy - 2016

When I first heard of the concept of Jus Sanguinis, I was intrigued by the concept of having dual citizenship. I wondered why someone--especially an American--would want this. Were there any downsides? Benefits?

So I looked into it a bit. There are definitely benefits to having an Italian passport:

• Live, work, retire, go to school, and travel freely in 27 European Union (EU) countries
• Reconnect with your cultural background and strengthen the fabric of your heritage
• Travel safer abroad
• Pass on the lifelong gift of Italian Dual Citizenship to other members of your family--One of the most basic reasons why Italian dual citizenship is beneficial is the fact that you get to pass it on to your children (and their children and their children's children in perpetuity) in an unbroken line of Italian citizenship.
• College education is available for Italian citizens in state supported universities for as little as 1500 Euro per semester. As long as Italy is a member of the EU, you can also attend EU universities in other EU countries as well.
  
• Access financial investment rights available only to EU citizens
• For the uninsured or under-insured, healthcare in the U.S. can be expensive. As an Italian citizen, you are entitled to apply for your tessera sanitaria to receive Italian healthcare which is world class and much more affordable when compared to healthcare in the U.S.
  
• Seek health care/drug treatments that may not be available in the United States.
• Access educational benefits, including potentially free higher education
• Leverage tax shelters and benefits
• Benefits when purchasing property in Italy. Having Italian dual citizenship entitles you to much less paperwork and legal hassles when buying or renting property.

According to Italian law, a qualified person can claim their Italian citizenship through Jus Sanguinis, the Right of Blood.   The basic principle is that Italian citizenship is passed from father (or mother, only since 1948) to their children, even if those descendants gained citizenship in another country (such as in the U.S.) simply by being born there.   The key is that the ascendant born in Italy and who immigrated to the US must have been an Italian citizen (i.e. not been naturalized as a US citizen) when his or her child was born.  Italian women did not win the right to pass on citizenship to their children until 1948. Therefore, people born prior to Jan. 1st, 1948, can only claim citizenship from their paternal line, while those born on or after Jan. 1st, 1948, can claim from either their maternal or paternal line.

There are many circumstances under which a descendant of an Italian citizen can qualify, but it might be difficult to provide the dates and many documents to satisfy the Italian regulations.  Many people who have attempted to get their Italian citizenship have reported the process can easily take a couple of years and well over $1000 in fees to research and gain copies of documents, and in hiring a representative in Italy to act on your behalf in obtaining all the required Italian documents.

The Legal Principals

Jus sanguinis is Latin for "the Right of Blood", a legal principle of nationality law in which citizenship is not determined by place of birth, but by having one or both parents who are (or once were) citizens of the state. Children at birth may automatically be citizens if their parents have (or had previously) state citizenship or national identities of ethnic, cultural or other origins.

The nationality law of Italy bestows citizenship jure sanguinis. There is no limit of generations for the citizenship via blood. However, the first citizens of the modern Italian state were alive on 17 March 1861 when the state was officially formed, and for this reason all claims of Italian citizenship by jure sanguinis must stem from an ancestor who was living after March 16, 1861. Each descendant of the ancestor through whom citizenship is claimed jure sanguinis could pass Italian citizenship to the next generation only if this descendant was entitled to Italian citizenship at the time of the birth of the next person in the line. So if any person in the line lost the Italian citizenship and then had a child, that child did not inherit Italian citizen jure sanguinis, except if the child could inherit the citizenship from the other parent.

Cases of dual citizenship were possible, which is to say, for example, that a person in the line could have had Italian and Canadian citizenship concurrently. Minor children of Italian citizens were at risk of losing Italian citizenship if the child's parent naturalized in another country, unless the child was subject to an exception to this risk—and children born and residing in a country where they held dual citizenship by jus soli were subject to such an exception since 1 July 1912.

Until 1 January 1948, Italian law did not generally permit women to pass on citizenship. Persons born before that date are in most cases not Italian citizens jure sanguinis if their line of descent from an Italian citizen depends on a female at some point before 1948. On several occasions, this limitation of deriving Italian citizenship only from fathers before 1948 has been successfully challenged in court.

For more information:
MyItalianCitizenship.com
Read this case history of how one person succeeded in getting their Italian citizenship.

--Jerry Finzi

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Talking on the phone in any foreign country can be intimidating, especially if you're not all that fluent with the language. But there are other considerations besides the language itself. There's the manner in which you use the phone. In Italy, there are particular ways to say things along with a whole set of proper phone etiquette.

First of all, when you pick up a phone and answer it, you use a word that lets the person on the other end know that you are ready to talk.  That word is "Pronto" (literally, "ready"). There is good reason for using this particular word in Italy. You would never use "ciao" simply because it would be vague in this situation. "Ciao" can mean both "hello" and a very casual, "bye-bye".  So, instead, Italians let you know they are ready to speak or listen. When answering the phone, say "pronto".

It is also possible when calling someone who is younger with a more casual attitude toward etiquette, or perhaps a local auto repair shop answering the phone in a hurry, you might hear someone say "Dimmi!" when answering their phone. This literally means "Tell me!" If you hear this, don't be put off by it... it's just a more casual, modern style of answering the phone.  

When you have initiated the phone call, after hearing the other party say "pronto", you may then use "ciao" (hello), "salve" (a more casual "hello"), "buongiorno" (good day/good morning), "buon pomeriggio" (good afternoon) or "Buonasera" (good evening) before introducing yourself. Italians are formal with strangers, so don't pass this step by.

The next step is introducing yourself. Say either "mio nome è (your name)" or "mi chiamo (your name)". The first has some liaison that merges the "nome" with the "è"... since they both make the same "ay" sound (NOM-ay and ay), so I would pronounce it as "ME-o NOM-ay Jerry Finzi". And remember that the "ch" has a "K" sound, so "mi chiamo" would be "ME kee-AMmo.... ".

Another way to introduce yourself would be to simply say, "Ciao, sono Jerry Finzi" (Hello, I am Jerry Finzi".)

When you pronounce your own name, learn to say it the way an Italian would. I need to roll the "rr" in "Jerry" and pronounce the "z" almost like a "T" sound, the way Italians do. A great tool is Google Translate where you can enter your own name and then, by pressing the speaker button, hear it pronounced in Italian. If you don't try to pronounce your name like an Italian, they may not be able to easily spell it when writing it down.  Oh yes... and learn how to pronounce the Italian alphabet. The letters are the same, but you pronounce them very differently when you spell out a word. Here's a video to help you learn how to say the alphabet in Italian:

Ok, so they know who you are, but how do you ask to speak to the person you need? Say "Posso parlare con Jerry Finzi?" (May I speak with Jerry Finzi?) or "Potrei parlare con Jerry Finzi?" (May I talk to Jerry Finzi?)

Ok, so you can't speak much--or any--Italian, and want to speak to someone who speaks English. You can say, "Posso parlare con qualcuno che parli inglese, per favore?" (Can I speak with someone who speaks English, please?) or "C'è qualcuno che parla inglese?" (Is there someone who speaks English?")

Of course, use the word "grazie" (thanks) when appropriate to respond when people are helpful and responsive. Do not mispronounce it as "GRAT-zee" or "GRAT-zee-ah"("grazia" means "grace"). Instead, try to pronounce it properly as "GRAT-zee-ay". The "ay" is there, but soft at the end. If you listen carefully to locals, you'll notice the three syllables.

The end a conversation, say "ciao" (an informal "bye-bye") or "arrivederci" ("goodbye" - more formal or businesslike). To thank them for helping you, say "Grazie per l’aiuto".  (Thank you for the help.)

You can also use "Buona giornata" meaning "have a good day" (not "buongiornata", which means "good morning" or "buongiorno" meaning "good day/morning"--more commonly used as greetings). Essentially, when you separate "buonA" in front of the time of day "pomeariggio" as example), you are saying "have a good ____".

Here is a bit tip for when you have to make a very important call and need to say very specific things--for business, medical emergencies, asking directions, etc.). Use Google Translate ahead of time to translate some phrases for you to use during your conversation, and then save them in Translate's phrasebook as a favorite by pressing the star button. You can then use the phrasebook like a script to keep you on track during the conversation.

If you need to leave a voice mail message, keep it short. Italians think it's rude to leave long, rambling messages.

Ring... Ring...

"Jerry Finzi qui. Richiamerò più tardi. Non chiamarmi, ti chiamo."
(Jerry Finzi here. I'll call again later. Don't call me, I'll call you.  )

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Copyright 2016 - Grand Voyage Italy/Jerry Finzi - All Rights Reserved

Ok, so Waverly Labs is taking cash for "pre-orders" of its Pilot System, and it's not a proven technology--yet. But let's hope this product reaches the marketplace and actually works. It's a cool looking earbud device that you can set to translate from one language into another--in "real time" (with a slight delay, according to the video demo). It would allow two people to actually have a decent conversation even though they both speak in different tongues.

The inventor is pushing this for two language, cross translations, but I think this is also a great tool for people (like me) who already know a lot of basic phrases and responses in a particular language, and want to fill in the gaps when people speak to them. For example, it would be great for me if I had to go into a situation that requires a bit more jargon or nuance--like at an auto repair shop or doctor's office. I could hold my own in restaurants and shops with Italian, but a doctor might talk too fast with too many specialized words that I never learned or have forgotten. This device might help...

With its smart phone app, it's possible to quickly toggle between languages quickly. This would have been helpful when I had a lunch in Altamura at a table with new friends speaking 4 different languages.

I hope this product makes it to market... and I hope it actually works well. For $129, I think its price point is right on.

--JF

--Jerry Finzi

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Anyway, the big moment came when we were about to enter the Sistine Chapel. Oddly, tour guides are not allowed to speak inside the Chapel. Because of this, guides need to explain what visitors are about to see before they even get close to the Chapel. Marcello briefed us in a dark chamber by pulling out a book and turning the pages as he explained what we are about to see. (The shorthand version). You'd think with all their millions in revenue the Vatican Museum would install a proper orientation exhibit to educate visitors before they enter... videos, slides, displays, etc. Heck, even our local canal barge museum has an orientation video before you take a ride on the canal, and the Crayola Factory in a nearby town has excellent, world class multi-media presentations! I mean, after this is the Vatican!

After Marcello finished showing us photos in his dog-eared art book, he led us through more rooms and then upstairs (no elevator... people with walking issues need to be ready for this) and into the crowded Sistine Chapel, saying he would meet us near a back door in 10 minutes or so. Ten minutes? When I was a young man, I heard of people spending all day, often laying on the floor with binoculars to soak in the wonder of the Ceiling. Ten minutes?

We were now on our own--with about 1000 or more other people from large tour groups... shoving Chinese, rude Italians and pushy Germans (forgive me, but I'm just pointing out my observations). After a little while we luckily found seats against a side wall (Knees to Babbo, "Thank You!") and sat gazing up at the magnificence of Michelangelo's genius. Lucas was surprised when he realized that the architectural details like moldings and columns were all Trompe-l'œil  (tricks of the eye)... all painted to look three dimensional. He also liked the Creation of Man... the famous God touching the hand of Man scene. I loved the Temptation of Adam panel. The bright colors of the restoration of about 20 years ago brought out all the amazing bright colors of the frescoes. Before that, the frescoes were covered with half a millennium of candle soot.

Afterwards, we went outside and around to the front entrance to St.Peter's Basilica. The place is immense. You could almost fit Yankee Stadium inside. The art was mostly beautiful, the rest I found to be ostentatious. The grandeur is overtly in your face--majestic by design. The craftsmanship in everything is unbelievable, and a bit disturbing to thin of the enormous resources the Church spent to have them made by artists and craftsmen throughout history (instead of taking care of the truly needy?)  The huge dome can easily fit the Statue of Liberty inside. Some sculptures and angels are huge. The marble columns are massive. The bronze doors are enormous. Amazingly, because of the crowds, the echoing chatter, the picture-taking and the signs warning of pickpockets in the Basilica, I didn't feel God here.

Marcello was still in his bore-them-with-obscure-details mode, Lucas was thirsty and hot, Lisa was hot and having a near melt-down, and my knees were out for the count and my sweat had dehydrated me beyond belief. I can imagine how many people collapse in this place from exhaustion and heat, but unlike Disney theme parks, I didn't see even a single defibrillator station anywhere. 

We told Marcello we were going to cut this part of the tour short--Short? We were going over 5 hours! We said good bye to Marcello outside and above the Square and after a stop at the Vatican Post office to get Lucas some stamps, we headed off to find cooling refreshments. We waded through shepherds and their tourist flocks and several gypsies dressed as nuns looking for handouts, African hawkers selling cheap junk and finally saw The Line... of people trying to get through the security check and into the Basilica. It was six people thick and going from one side of St Peters to the other, where it then went into corralled switchback lines, zig-zagging back and forth. It looked like about 50,000 people trying to enter a single entrance to a major league baseball stadium. Incredible! I've heard the wait on line can be 3 hours long...

Now we knew for sure that our not so private tour was worth it just to avoid those hours on that unbearably long line. Was the Vatican Tour itself worth it? I'm not so sure. Of course, as an artist, a lifetime dream of seeing the Sistine Chapel was realized... but not in a way where I could appreciate the art in a meditative manner, as I did when I was a kid and would sit for long periods studying a painting I liked.

I didn't appreciate being swallowed up by the ever-rushing tour groups, effectively nullifying our "private tour". I really hated how poor the Museum is in terms of climate control and protecting these treasures... for example, walking through the bedrooms of the Popes, the beautiful ceramic tile floors have been worn clear through the top layers of color from the thousands of shoes walking on them. I saw graffiti around some windows. The 16 foot tall windows being wide open to the humidity and pollution was horrible.

And I really thought that visiting the seat of the Catholic faith itself--St. Peters--would be a more moving experience. It was loud, crowded, and we were in fear of pickpockets (even Marcello warned us). Perhaps they should treat this like a museum, too... and limit how many people enter at one time. It's a functioning place of worship, so anyone can walk right in (after the long wait in line). In general, I get the feeling that the Vatican will increase the number of tourists, making matters worse. Perhaps there is a marketing manager in a hot office somewhere setting new goals for 100 million dollars a year. 

We bought some gassata (sparkling water) from a street vendor to cool down, then grabbed a taxi at the taxi stand across the piazza, and went back to our apartment to refresh ourselves. Snacks and a nap brought an end to this day of agony and ecstasy.

--Jerry Finzi


Click HERE to see some amazing High Resolution images of the Sistine Chapel!

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Before we traveled to Italy, I researched about all sorts of things... especially how people scam and cheat. There are lots of warnings online about taxi cheats. I just wanted to report that after having used car services, radio taxis, taxis from a taxi station and even hailing a taxi that we spotted with his roof light on (free), we have not been cheated.

The radio taxis always show up on time with the help of their sophisticated gps unit. The car service I used costs barely more than a city taxi and is very professional. (transfercruiserome.com) If you see a taxi with its roof light lit, try hailing... as long as you are standing where they can pull over without blocking traffic (in other words, not on a narrow side street). There was one time I tried hailing a taxi on a crowded side street... one with barely any sidewalks (a common thing in Italy). The driver looked at me like I was crazy. Sure... he had no place to pull over. Lesson learned.

And just in case, always look at the meter for the "tarrifa 1" to be lit up. Within the city walls "tarrifa 1" is the correct lower rate. If you see "tarrifa 2" or "tarrifa 3" lit up for a trip inside the city limits of Rome, beware... you've got a crook trying to double or triple the rate. Tarrifa 2 and 3 are used for trips outside the walls, into the suburbs or to the airport.

In general, I've found the drivers to be talkative, friendly, helpful and responsive when you at least try to speak some Italian. I'm sure they are more used to tourists who don't attempt even the most basic Italian words and expressions. Looking back, I wish I had taken photos of the drivers... I still remember their faces and smiles. By the way, unlike in Manhattan, every taxi driver was actually an Italian.

--Jerry Finzi

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This is something you'll need to know if you are planning on staying in Italy for an extended period of time--especially if you will be interacting on a regular basis with Italians with your smart device. As I witnessed myself when I voyaged through Italy, Italians love their smart phones. Of course, the kids have them, but I even saw a farmer in a remote area using his--and not just talking on the phone, but texting while tending his sheep. In Rome I saw a well dressed young professional woman in Rome texting while driving her Vespa. Our taxi drivers texted while driving. Italians send 60 million texts a year! Italian kids, much like American kids, are often sending SMS messages to each other while standing on the same street corner. If you intend to communicate via text in Italy, you've got a lot of studying to do... first, the Italian language, and second the particular manner in which Italians abbreviate...

There is a pretty big learning curve when learning Italian texting abbreviations and you need a fairly decent working knowledge of the Italian language itself as a foundation.

Here is a typical Italian text message I found as a sample... Try to figure out what is being said using the chart I've included below it.

Translation:
Ci sei? Non ti vedo più da tanto! La prossima volta rispondi per favore perché ti voglio bene e mi manchi! Grazie e baci.

Are you there? I haven't seen you for a long time! Next time, please answer my message because I love you and I miss you! Thanks and kisses.

My suggestion in case you're planning on a long stay in Italy: Learn as much Italian as you can and... find yourself a 16 year old that speaks good English to help with the most current texting abbreviations. After all, this is a new language--it's a language of the young.

Bouna fortuna! You'll need it!

--Jerry Finzi

If you enjoyed this post, please share it with your friends. Grazie!