Nisida: The Flooded Volcano of Naples

In the time of the Romans, politician and military leader Lucius Licinius Lucullus built a villa on the collapsed and flooded island volcano of Nisida. Another general, Marcus Iunius Brutus (of et tu Brute? fame) also built a villa there for holidays. You might say this was the Cape David of the day where the military leaders went to vacation, to rest, recharge and ponder their next battle while they enjoyed the comfort and pleasures of this island in the sea.

Brutus's wife Porcia, committed suicide sometime after learning of Brutus' plan to assassinate Julius Caesar. Some historians think Brutus and Cassius hatched their plan here on Nisida. Some of the archaeological remains on Nisida are supposedly of Brutus' villa.
Since then, there have been monasteries, a castle and even a prison on the island. Artists and noblemen would flock to it and even Cervantes was inspired by its mystery and charm. Today there is a rehabilitation center on the island for young boys at risk where they learn trades such as carpentry, ceramics, glass-making and other skills. The NATO Maritime Command also has it's headquarters on the island.

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Nisida is a volcanic island near Cape Posillipo southeast of Naples. The crescent shaped island is connected to the mainland by a stone bridge. Being a volcano, there is a flooded crater forming the bay of Porto Paone on the southwest side--a small cove, really. It's small--a bit more than a half mile across and juts out of the Tyrrhenian Sea to a height of 350 feet.

You can park and walk to the island on the stone bridge or go by boat--renting one at the nearby marina. There is also a large public beach on the mainland facing Nisida and a few restaurants. As with many parts of Italy, some of the area is covered in graffiti and looks worse for wear, but then again, this is Naples. If you walk to the island, you can hike in the non-restricted areas and take in the views of Naples and the surrounding bay and islands. The pebbled beach is surrounded by clean crystal clear water. You can relax in a private shady spot in the woods that cover the island nearly down to the beach. If you sail, you can rent small sailboats and cruise the waters around the island, but if you go by boat, be sure to check out the arch and the grottoes cut into the far side of the island.

And, for a little side trip to this Naples side trip... Check out the views on the mainland from Parco Virgiliano, and urban park overlooking the bay and Nisida from it's perch 500 feet on top of another volcanic bluff. The views are staggering.

--Jerry Finzi

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