Recipes: Patate Fritte a Sfoglia (Potato Chips) and Patate Fritte Rustica (Rustic French Fries)10/3/2016 In Italy, there are indeed "French fries", as there are all over the world at this point. Years ago when I took a French language course, my teacher, who professed to be an expert of everything French, told me that there were, in fact, no "French fries" in France--it was an American thing. Yea, right. Of course, when I traveled 3000 miles around France on a moped, I learned something about French life--they certainly did have fries there... only they called them "frittes". (The same "teacher" also suggested that I would never see turkey on a menu--even though the French have great dinde {turkey} dishes--and that corn is only reserved to feed the pigs. Googling "recettes de maïs" will find over 60 million hits for "corn recipes".) Steak-frittes was something that I grew to detest, as it was the low rent district of French cuisine--as common as a burger cooked on a flat-top in an American diner. I spent the unfortunate week on the Cote d'Atlantique stuck in a seaside hotel during a five-day deluge, with a room on the court just above the kitchen where pretty much all they cooked was steak-frittes. I couldn't stand the smell of a deep fryer and "frittes" for decades after that. But of course, life goes on, things change... I learned to be a fairly good cook, and eventually learned to deep-fry, although I tend to reserve deep-frying for special occasions (I'm into heart-healthy eating). If I learned to make "french fries", I was determined to learn the best way to make them--crispy, not greasy, using a heart-healthy fat like canola oil. I've also been a long-time fan of home-made potato chips when served in a restaurant or a great roadside fast food stand. This was another goal when learning to deep fry... Over the course of the last couple of years, I have learned to make both rustic style potato fries and potato chips. In Italian, "French fries" translates as patate fritte (literally, fried potatoes). "Potato chips" can translate rather technically as patate fritte a sfoglia (literally, fried puff pastry potatoes), or chips di patate. In reality, you can just call them "chips" with an Italian accent (pronounced "keeps"). So first, I thought I would share with you how to make my fantastic, twice-fried Patate Fritte Rustica (modeled after the "Famine Fries" I've enjoyed at Celtic festivals... Ok, so call me a universal kind of guy). Patate Fritte Rustica (Makes about 4-6 servings) Ingredients 3 large Idaho style baking potatoes, washed & dried, with the skin on 1 gallon of canola oil for frying Spicing Your choice (to taste) of: Sea salt & fresh ground pepper Old Bay brand spice for an authentic, New England flavor, sprinkle a bit of malt vinegar & salt Italian spice mixture (sea salt, dried oregano, dried basil, crushed red pepper flakes) You may use either an electric deep fryer or a large stock pot to fry your potatoes. If using an electric fryer, follow instructions and be careful not to overfill higher than the oil level lines inside the fryer). If you use a stock pot, you only need to fill with oil to a dept of about 2-3" to safely fry your potatoes. Be VERY careful with hot oil! Never overload your oil with potatoes, and NEVER add wet potatoes or you might have spatter and a boil-over!
The Potato and Italy The potato is a recent addition to the European cuisine, ever since the Spaniards brought back potatoes from the New World in the 15oos. They are grown and eaten all over Europe and the rest of the world today, with Italy both growing and consuming about 20% less than the United States. It's a wonder that potatoes are grown in the Mediterranean climate of Italy since they were originally brought back from the high altitude of the Andes. It's even more amazing that most of Italy's production of potatoes takes place in the southern part of the country--Campania, Sicily and Puglia. A more interesting fact is that the potato is Italy's second largest crop, right behind the tomato. Chips di Patate (Makes about 4-6 servings) Ingredients 3 large Idaho style baking potatoes, washed and dried, with the skin on. 1 gallon of canola oil for frying Spicing You have the same options for spicing your chips as in the recipe for Patate Fritte Rustica above. Use either a large stock pot or electric deep fryer for frying your chips. You will also need a mandoline for thinly slicing your potato chips. (Caution when using a mandoline!)
That's all there is to it. I hope you try both recipes... let us know how they turned out. Here's a couple of tips:
Ciao e buon appetito! --Jerry Finzi Copyright, 2016 - All rights reserved, Jerry Finzi/Grand Voyage Italy
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Ok, so this isn't really a recipe, per se. It's a suggestion to eat a light lunch, Italian Style. It's about getting together some simple ingredients and putting together a tasty, healthy lunch platter for yourself and your kids. Think of this style of lunch as an indoor picnic... with or without the blanket--your choice. There have actually been rainy or snowy days when we've actually put our picnic blanket down on the kitchen or living room floor and sat down to have our Italian scampagnata (picnic outing) right inside the house.
Usually, we get together this type of lunch when we aren't sure what to have, but then notice a bunch of great things in the fridge. This time, it was some fresh figs I had just bought, a bit of leftover ricotta from this week's lasagna, a drizzle of honey and a tiny dribble of a precious bottle of aged balsamic that we bought two years ago in Tuscany... then cut up some cheese, ciabatta, sausage and an yellow heirloom tomato... some oregano and sea salt on the tomatoes, then toss in a few pimento stuffed olives, and presto! A lunch fit for "we three", as we call ourselves. Pair with a bit of gassata (sparkling water) and put on an Italian cooking show on the big screen TV... Now, that's how to have a great piccolo pranzo! --Jerry Finzi This is my simple recipe for a fairly authentic Pizza Margherita Napoletana, just like you might find on the streets of Naples. The ingredients are simple, the techniques are simple, the taste is amazing...
Ingredients To proof the yeast 1 cup warm water (at 115F) half packet or 1 teaspoon rapid rise yeast 1 tablespoon honey Mix the yeast and honey into the water in a 2 cup measure or small bowl. Set aside to rise. Place a baking steel (highly recommended) or a pizza stone onto the center rack of your oven, then preheat to 515F. For the dough 2 - 1/2 cups all purpose flour (you may also replace 1/2 cup all-purpose with 1/2 cup bread flour) 1 tablespoon salt 1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil For the toppings 1-1/2 cups pizza sauce (a thin marinara will do) 8 ounces sliced, part skim mozzarella (you can use the wide slicing notches on a box grater) 6-9 large, fresh basil leaves 1 tablespoon, dry oregano (Use chopped, fresh oregano if available) 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Thin slices of a sweet heirloom tomato
Remove from the oven, slice up your pizza using a pizza cutter wheel and serve with your favorite Chianti or Primativo. I hope you enjoy your pizza... let us know how it came out! Ciao! --Jerry Finzi We all love Lasagne around our home, but to us it's a treat saved for the colder months. It's just way too filling for summer, but with the end of Summer Lisa thought she'd add another dimension by adding some of the last eggplants from our garden and make us Eggplant Lasagna. Her version uses three cheeses... ricotta, Fontina and smoked mozzarella. Fantastic. Brava, Mama! She really knows how to take care of her boys... Ingredients 2 medium, firm eggplants 2 cups breadcrumbs 3 tablespoons Italian seasoning blend 2 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano 2 eggs, beaten well 3-4 tablespoons sea salt 1 cup canola oil (for frying) 1 box (8 ounces) of "oven ready" (no boil) Lasagna noodles 16 ounces part skim ricotta 1 cup grated fontina 1 cup grated smoked mozzarella 2 cups marinara sauce (you can also use our Pizza Sauce recipe HERE) Directions
Assembling the Lasagna
We had our lasagna with an amazing bottle of "Joha" Primativo by Guttarolo(2010). It was fairly expensive for us ($36 for the bottle), but to our surprise, it was worth it. It had a smooth feeling passing through our lips, was mellow on the tongue with a nice balance of acidity. As most Primativo wines, this had a hearty flavor with bits of musk, hay, and a touch of spice. A great pairing with Lisa's Eggplant Lasagna... If you make our recipe, let us know how it turned out. Buon Appetito! --Jerry Finzi This past Labor Day weekend, we had some close friends over for a barbecue. Since the main course might be fairly filling, we wanted to make a light, summery dessert. Lisa and I partnered up on this one. She came up with a fabulous dough for the crust and I put it all together... our Pesca Mirtillo Crostata, or Peach Blueberry Tart. This is actually a fairly easy dessert to make that will always impress company. It looks so elegant event though it is the ultimate in quick, easy recipes. Ingredients for the crust: 1 - 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (we use King Arthur's) 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 9 tablespoons unsalted butter (cold), cut into 1/4" slices 4 tablespoons ice water, plus one or two additional tablespoons, if needed for the filling: 4 large white peaches (if in season), sliced into 1/2" wedges (leave skin on) 1/2 cup fresh blueberries 1/4 cup cinnamon and sugar 2 tablespoons flour or cornstarch dash of nutmeg 1/4 cup seedless raspberry jam, heated and melted (for brushing the bottom of the crust) To finish off the crust 1 egg, beaten 2 tablespoons of turbinado sugar (for sprinkling on the crust) Making the crust
Preheat your oven to 400F. Making the filling
Assembling the Crostata
I served the crostata with a scoop of home made French vanilla ice cream... Lisa had hers with some Limoncello.
Let us know how yours turned out! Boun appetito! --Jerry Finzi Of course, the ultimate experience in buying food in Italy is to buy fresh in local town open air markets. But to do this, you need to be in the right town on the right day--these markets move from town to town with their schedules marked on signs where they take place. One town might have a market day once a week, while another larger one might have two, or even more than one market location. When shopping in a local alimentari (grocery store) in Italy, you won't need a shopping cart. These shops are fairly small, and if you're trying to shop the way the locals do, you'll arrive with your own mesh or fabric bag to put your groceries in--or a basket, if you're feeling nostalgic. They will have just about everything you need... water, sodas, cheeses (cut to order), deli meats, sausage, produce... even very good wine (we paid no more than 5 Euro per bottle and never had a bad bottle). Perfect for gathering things for a picnic or making your own meal back at your rental apartment. Then there's the small, in-town, chain mercato, lots smaller than American supermarkets. Think--convenience store merged with a food market. These are in city centers and are a bit tight on space. Surprisingly, what looks like a small shop entrance on the the exterior often opens up to a larger than expected store inside--still not "super" though. They might have smaller sized shopping carts or convertible basket-trolleys. You can still bring your own bags to carry your purchases in. The same is true of larger supermercarto, usually located at one end of a town or outside the town limits entirely, except the aisles are larger and they will offer shopping carts--for a loaner fee. The first time we experienced this we were quite surprised. The carts lock together in a specific area (usually near the entrance) and a 1 Euro coin is needed to unlock one for use. If you remove the cart from the store and leave it in the parking lot, the store keeps your 1 Euro. If you return it to its lockup, you can retrieve your coin. This seems to work--we rarely saw carts left in parking lots. Here's a hint: Keep a 1 Euro coin in your car at all times in case you really do need to use a shopping cart. People tend to shop differently in Italy and don't buy enough groceries for 1-2 weeks as many families do in the States. This is reflected in the smaller size of their refrigerators. Because of this, we rarely saw Italians with shopping carts overflowing with food, and in fact, rarely saw the carts being used at all, unless someone was buying a lot of overly heavy items. Most people tend to bring their own reusable mesh or fabric shopping bags, or even folding shopping carts like people did when I was a kid in the Fifties. In fact, virtually everywhere (I believe it's because of a law), if you want a plastic shopping bag, you have to ask for one, and pay an extra 10 cents/Euro apiece. Essentially, you tell the checkout clerk beforehand how many bags you need so she can ring them up. And keep in mind, there are no bag boys in Italy. You bag your own groceries, unless you look befuddled and dumbfounded, like most newcomer tourists look--then you might have a nice lady helping you (or she might get very impatient, you never know.) If two of you are shopping, do like I do with Lucas--I load the groceries onto the belt area, he bags them. (Read my article about the trend toward "Zero-Packaging" and "Zero Waste" markets in Europe HERE). There is also another class of supermarket called the Hypermercato or for short Ipermercato (EE-perr-mher-COT-o). These are like the mega stores we have, Super-Walmart, BJs, etc. They are usually in an industrial area or well away from town centers and are as big as anything in the U.S. If you're vacationing in Italy, even for a prolonged stay in one location, you shouldn't ever need to waste your time in one of these--unless you're just curios about how similar or different they are from similar stores at home. I should also address buying and pesatura, or weighing your produce in larger supermercadi. First of all, it's customary (for hygiene reasons) not to touch the produce with your bare hands. For this reason, you will see signs saying something like, "Servitevi - Per motivi d'Igiene Non Toccare La Merce" Self Service - for reasons of hygiene Do Not Touch the merchandise (A good phrase to remember, there are "Non Toccare" signs in other types of shops, too. ) Somewhere near the fruits and veggies you will see plastic gloves. Put one on the hand you intend to use to pick up your selections and use the other hand to hold the bag to put them into. Now, for pesatura: look around for a scale, and place your bag on the the scale. Above the scale there will be a panel with pictures of the fruit and vegetables on sale that day. Press the the corresponding picture button and you'll get a label printed out. Stick it on your bag. Repeat with your other items. One last tip: Now all supermarkets take credit cards. Some only use their own store cards--like some COOP locations. There should be an ATM nearby, so this shouldn't be much of a problem. Besides, to really experience the Italian lifestyle, try to steer clear from supermercati, even though the quality of produce in them is much superior from what is typically found in U.S. supermarkets. My best experiences have been shopping in local Mama e Papa alimentari, with the ultimate experience being the open air markets.
Happy shopping... and don't forget to buy a mesh shopping bag before heading to Italy. --Jerry Finzi If you liked this article, please share it with your friends! Ciao! You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr Copyright 2016 - Jerry Finzi/Grand Voyage Italy - All Rights Reserved According a study to the University of British Columbia's Department of Psychology, the effects of a morning coffee or espresso as a stimulant to sharpen a worker's concentration and work product won't necessarily work on every worker. The study found that caffeine and other similar stimulants (like amphetamines) don't actually raise motivational levels in the workplace. For employees who are naturally motivated toward their jobs, a morning dose of caffeine might actually have the reverse effect and turn them into slackers. So, if you're normally a productive person, think twice about having a doppio-dose of espresso.
Sometimes, the best rewards come from loving your job... --Jerry Finzi Here are just two of the 12 varieties of heirloom tomatoes my son, Lucas and I grew this year. This is a large platter to give some size relationship.
The globe shaped tomatoes are Giant Belgium and range from 2" to 4" in diameter. I've been growing Belgium for about 20 years... seed-saving every year. This year, I went for volume rather than size, so I didn't remove any tomato "babies" (which would allow the remaining tomatoes to grow much larger). In years when I've gone for size and left only a third of the tomato pips on the vine, Belgium produced 1-2 pound fruits. The other tomato is a fairly new favorite of mine--Jersey Devil. I've been growing it for the last 4 years or so. It is a horn, pepper shaped tomato with a sweet flavor which can be used for both sauces and slicing. This year, they have grown up to 6" long. I will say that this year I've had a terrible problem with blight and am considering solarizing my tomato beds to kill the fungus. I started with 3 raised beds and last year put in 3 more smaller beds, and sadly discovered the blight is in most of my beds. Rotating my crops every three years used to keep disease at bay, but I now have to try something radical. Either solarize the beds (covering with clear plastic, which heats and kills organisms) for the entire next year's growing season, or completely relocate my veggie garden to somewhere else on our property. The choices for new location is limited because we've planted many varieties of trees during our 17 years on our property, giving us both privacy and our own private arboretum. There are only three areas left with enough sun for a productive vegetable garden. Wish me luck! --Jerry Finzi When I was a boy, my Dad had a large fig tree in our little backyard in the city where we lived. He would love eating the rip figs right from the tree, squishing it open between his two thumbs to show me the rich, sweet and colorful seedy fruit inside. Now as a kid, I was never all that partial to figs. I thought they were too mushy--it was a texture thing. As an adult, I discovered there's nothing like figs and cheese... especially when paired with some fresh ricotta and drizzled with honey. Of course, I'm talking about fresh figs... the dried figs are very sweet and would be best left as an ingredient in other dishes or baked goods, the way raisins are used. We lived just across the Hudson River from Manhattan. Winters were very cold back then. I remember Dad wrapping his fig tree very carefully to "put it to bed" for the winter--stuffing newspapers in between the branches, then wrapping with burlap, and then wrapping again with an old carpet. He'd cover the whole thing with a tarp. This would keep out the cold and snow and prevent the branches from freezing all the way to the ground. In the early spring, Dad would unwrap the tree carefully and if he did it properly, the branches only died back a few inches. As soon as it got warm, the tree would put out leaves again... the cycle renewing itself. Some would dig long trenches and kneel the fig trees over and then put the layering on top, but Dad always thought this was overkill. Fig History In the beginning, there was the Fig. In fact, some Biblical scholars believe the Fig was the Forbidden Fruit, not the apple. One only needs to consider that it's perhaps the sweetest fruit on the planet, and to ponder the sensual flesh inside the fruit to understand why it may have well been Forbidden by God Himself. The edible fig is also one of the first plants cultivated by humans as far back as 11,000 years ago! That's about a thousand years before wheat, rye or peas were farmed. Figs were grown throughout the Middle East and of course from Greece to Italian peninsular. Cato the Elder wrote about figs that were cultivated during the time of the Roman Empire and even listed the varieties: Mariscan, African, Herculanean, Saguntine, and Black Tellanian. Fruits were eaten fresh, of course, but what made figs a valuable food source was their long storage capabilities when dried. Obviously healthy, figs are full of calcium, potassium and fiber. They were also used to produce foie gras by force feeding geese to fatten their livers. In time, figs would be grown from India all the way across the Mediterranean to Portugal. After the discovery of the New World, figs crossed the Atlantic and were grown as a steady supply of nutritious food. Fig trees can easily get through a seasonal drought, and the Mediterranean climate in Italy is best for them. Old specimens can reach gigantic proportions and grow from 40 to over 100 feet tall. When planted in colder climates, they have to be protected from the cold or they will die back nearly to the ground, putting out new shoots the next spring, but taking a large toll on the shorter cold climate's fruit production season. Its aggressive root system in warmer climates can do damage to property and foundations of buildings so they are not normally grown in urban settings. In some parts of the Orient, figs have even overgrown houses and temples. The cantankerous roots are what allows the fig to survive even in dry, rocky landscapes. A little known fact about wild figs is that for the most part, they are sterile and need a particular species of wasp to enter inside the fruiting body in order to be able to spread pollen from plant to plant. For this reason, all cultivated figs bought from growers are clones of a mother plant--that is, they are grown from branch cuttings of a plant that is a know variety for good fruit production. If cared for properly, fig trees can produce two crops of figs each year. Fig Use in Recipes Fresh figs must be eaten within a short period of time simply because they don't keep well. Dried figs last for a year or more. Fig jams are a delicious way to keep the taste of figs on hand any time of the year. Cooked figs in ancient times were used as a sweetener as we use sugar today, and can be used in a similar fashion by modern chefs. Of course, we all know the iconic Fig Newton, so we can get a fix of fig that way, but nowadays the humble fig is being elevated into alta cucina by chefs worldwide. Here are a few ways to use figs: Lisa and I grew a fig tree at our last home and enjoyed the fresh fruits. After doing the research for this article and remembering how my Dad grew and loved figs, I'm thinking that next spring I'll put in a couple of young trees in my current garden. I'll let you know how that goes... Lunga vita il fico! --Jerry Finzi You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr Copyright 2015-16, Jerry Finzi - All Rights Reserved
Shakerato We all know that Italians love their espresso, and we also know that Italians also have a fear of ice--especially in a drink. "Heaven forbid", your Nonna would warn, against getting a stomach ache or worse--a chill. Nonna's warning aside, there is a great way to beat the heat if you're espresso inclined--the Shakerato. It's the closet thing to iced coffee that you will find in Italy. A basic Shakerato is made by combining hot espresso, sugar, a shakerful of ice, and then shaking vigorously in a cocktail shaker until a froth forms. Some get fancy with the Shakerato by adding chocolate syrup or using gelato in place of ice. Many baristas will even add some Amaretto or cream. Typically, your Shakerato will be served in a champagne flute. Recipe 2 shots espresso 1 teaspoon superfine sugar shaker of ice Optional: Amaretto or liquor of your own choosing Fill a cocktail shaker with ice, pour in the hot espresso and sugar, (and a shot of liquor of choice) then shake vigorously until frothy. Pour into a chilled martini glass and serve. Original Negroni and the Negroni Sbagliato The Negroni has become the go-to Italian cocktail, even out of Italy. It is considered an aperitif, to build your appetite before a meal. Recipe one part gin one part vermouth rosso (red or semi-sweet) one part Campari Garnished with orange peel. Variation: To make a Boulevardier, the gin is replaced with bourbon. The Negroni Sbagliato is a later, lighter version of the Negroni. The word Sbagliato means “mistaken” or "bungled" in Italian, referring to this drink's origin. In 1968, a busy bartender at Milan’s famous Bar Basso, made a mistake making a Negroni, and reached for a bottle of bubbly Prosecco instead of gin. If you like fizzy drinks, you'll love this one. Recipe 1 part Prosecco 1 part vermouth 1 part Campari Stir and serve with ice or "straight up". Spritz During the 19th century when the Austro-Hungarian Empire controlled the Veneto, the Spritz was born in Padua. Germans had a taste for lighter wines than the heavier, often sweeter wines of the Veneto, to they had their drinks served with a spritzen--a spray of soda water--to lighten them up. The classic Spritz version is made with Aperol, but other choices are Campari, Cynar or Select. In fact, when a person orders a Spritz in Italy, they are expected to tell the barista their liquor of choice. Recipe 3 parts Prosecco 2 parts Aperol (or other liquor) 1 splash soda water Stir and serve up or on the rocks, with a garnish of orange or lemon slice or an olive. Sgroppino In Venice, the custom is to have some sgropin (sorbet) in between meal courses to cleanse the palette. In the local Venetian dialect there are many words that mariners use, especially relating to nautical knots. The dialect word, sgroppino means "little un-knotter"--supposedly, the drink unties knots in your stomach during large feasts. Recipe 1/3 cup lemon sorbet 3 ounces Prosecco 1-ounce vodka Whisk together by hand or with an electric hand mixer, then pout into a frosty champagne flute. Top with a sprig of mint or slice of lemon or lime. Bellini In Italy, summer is the time for marrying your favorite fruit to your favorite alcoholic liquor. Peaches are a natural for this technique. In 1948, bartender Giuseppe Cipriani, developed a new cocktail by combining a peach puree (he loved white peaches) with the Italian bubbly, Prosecco, and served it as his Harry’s Bar in Venice. Supposedly, he named it after the pink hue in many of Renaissance painter Bellini’s masterpieces. Recipe 2 parts Prosecco 1 part peach puree It couldn't be simpler, as most great Italian things are... Stir and serve in a chilled glass. Limoncello Now, technically, Limoncello isn't a mixed cocktail--you don't mix it, you make it yourself. Making Limoncello has been a tradition in southern Italy, namely around the gulf of Naples and the Amalfi Coast, for at least a hundred years, although some claim that until the 1980s, the drink was made by only a handful of families in Campania. The huge, wrinkled, thick skinned Sfusato lemons grown in the Amalfi area are typically used, but you can use any lemons that are bright in both fragrance and color. Limoncello is considered a digestivo, meant for aiding digestion at the end of a meal, always served chilled, but is also used as an ingredient in mixed cocktails. Of course, you can find it and pay high prices for the better bottles imported directly from Italy, but I thought it would be more fun to give you a recipe to make it right in your own home. Recipe Ingredients: 10 lemons 1 (750-ml) bottle vodka 3 - 1/2 cups water 3 - 1/2 cups sugar (add more if you'd like it sweeter) The Italian way to make Limoncello is with grain alcohol, but most in the States use vodka--your choice. As the Italians do, select the best, most fragrant lemons (organic, if you can find them) and then wash them with a brush and water in the kitchen sink. Using a standard type of vegetable peeler, remove the zest (not the white pith) and steep them in the alcohol/vodka for 4 days. Afterwards, strain the peels from the liquid through a fine mesh cheesecloth. Discard the peels. Stir the water and sugar in a large saucepan over medium heat until a simple syrup develops--around 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. Then add the syrup into the lemon mixture. Transfer the limoncello to bottles. (Stores like Marshall's/Home Stores usually sells decorative bottles perfect for bottling your limoncello.) You can add some spiraled peels of lemon into the bottles. Seal the bottles... they will store well like any liquor--for several years--that is, if you can go that long without drinking it! Variation: Crema di Limoncello You can replace the water when making the simple syrup with whole milk and add vanilla to make a creamy version of Limoncello. So there you have it... several great Italian cocktails to have when you visit Italia or when relaxing on your backyard deck. Enjoy them with friends and great food. And remember, don't drink and drive--especially when on the Amalfi Coast Road...
Ciao! --Jerry Finzi You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr Copyright Jerry Finzi/Grand Voyage Italy - 2016 Around the July 4th holiday weekend, Lucas wanted to test his brand new ice pop mold kit. No cheap plastic molds for this young Foodie... this is a professional quality kit that Lucas purchased with his own savings. The result was fantastic: His cherry (with real cherry chunks), lemonade and blueberry Flag-Pops! Real cool!
Puntarelle are the young sprouts in the form of a head, and a close relative of chicory. This slightly bitter, crunchy salad green was mentioned in Roman literature around 1550 BC by Pliny. While originally a wild member of the chicory family, it has been cultivated for many hundreds of years and can be considered one of Rome's favorite veggies, primarily used in Insalata Puntarella. Grown all around the Mediterranean basin, in Italy it's primarily grown in Puglia. In the Lazio region it is known as Cicoria Catalogna, due to it's popularity in Spain. It loves lots of sun but not a lot of water, with the spouts coming during the fairly mild Mediterranean winter, in January and February. In the kitchen, you can prepare Puntarelle raw seasoned with salt, oil and vinegar, or prepared Roman style... by cutting the bottom root off the head, then peeling away the dirty outer leaves as you would a head of lettuce. It's best to taste one of the inner leaves to see if they are too bitter or not. If you want less bitter taste, peel off a bit more. The best parts are toward the center--with feathery tops. You cut them from the base and then slice them lengthwise like a julienne cut. Soak them in a bowl of cold water until they curl up. You can then dress your insalata with olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and some garlic. Some anchovies with a squeeze of lemon works well, too. You can also use them in cooked recipes, as in a frittata. The leaves can be sautéed with sausage and orecchiette as is done in Puglia, or winter soups with beans and garlic. They can be difficult to find in the States, but not impossible. Being grown in California, they are appearing more and more in gourmet green grocers in the larger cities. Rapini, Broccoli di Rapa, Broccoli Rape (or Rabe) and Cime di Rapa Yes, essentially they are all the same... aside from the fact that there are many varieties grown and whether or not the plants were overwintered (sweet) or not (bitter). The plant has more in common with mustard greens than broccoli (perhaps a distant relation), yet in Italy, Cime di Rape translates as Turnip Greens, even though they have little to do with turnips, either. Basically, Rapini looks like a bunch of turnip or mustard greens with bunches of small, broccoli looking florets. In the U.S. you can find several varieties sold under the name Broccoli Rabe ("raab"). Rapini is commonly used in mostly southern Italian cuisine and has a bitter taste (unless picked during the winter or early spring). The leaves, buds, and stems are all edible. The trick to calming its bitterness is boiling as you do pasta--in salted water. After draining or squeezing out excess water, you can add olive oil, garlic, and some dried pepperoncini. Use Rapini for in pasta sauces, omelettes, frittatas, soups and polenta. While in Italy, my son, Lucas and I came across a vegetable that we thought looked like stalks of celery--it was labeled cardy. Otherwise known as cardoon, it might also be found as artichoke thistle, cardone, cardoni, carduni, or cardi. A member of the sunflower family, the leaves are very much like the spiny thistle. There are many cultivated types but in some parts of the world it grows wild and can actually be an invasive species. In the western and central Mediterranean region it was domesticated in ancient times. Cardoon leaf stalks can be served steamed or braised, and taste very much like artichokes with some bitterness. Especially during the Christmas holiday, people from the Abruzzi region serve a traditional cardoon soup with meatballs in chicken broth. Often an egg is mixed into the soup (called stracciatella, my Dad used to love this). There are even casserole dishes which feature baked cardoon with onions, cheese or a bechamel sauce. Agretti, also called Barba Di Frate (or Friar's Beard) in Italy are the edible grass-like leaves of the Salsola soda plant. Agretti is actually a cold weather green typically grown in saltwater irrigated land around the Mediterranean Basin. In the kitchen, it is boiled, then placed in ice water to preserve the color and eaten as a leafy vegetable. It has a slight crunch similar to sprouts. It can be eaten raw with its taste described as being grassy and a bit salty. The most common way to prepare after boiling is to dress with olive oil, salt and lemon for a refreshing side dish with fish or chicken. Let's state the obvious here... The coolest thing about Romanesco is its spiraling buds, each containing more even smaller buds (does the "Fibonacci sequence" ring a bell?). The Romanesco (often called Cavolo Romanesco Broccoli or Roman Cauliflower) is a product of genetic breeding by 16th century Italian farmers. Romanesco is in season during from late summer to early fall, and it can often be found at local farmers’ markets in the eastern coast of the United States. Although it looks like cauliflower with a similar texture, in fact, it tastes like broccoli. And as with most Italian recipes, simple is best. Boiled or steamed, florets tossed with pasta, lemon, olive oil and pepper and you have a great meal. Cavolo nero is also known in Italy as Lacinato or Nero de Toscana, but can be found as black kale, black cabbage or Tuscan kale. It is related to its popular cousin, Cavolo Fiore (similar to cauliflower). It has long, deeply textured black leaves and was originally grown in Tuscany by the Etruscans in 600 BC. Very similar to kale, it is used in many traditional Italian dishes, from soups to main courses. Like with other kales, Cavolo Nero is blanched briefly in boiling water and then sautéed with EVO, garlic or anchovies. It can be used equally well in pasta dishes, salads (raw) and soups. In Tuscany, it is often an ingredient in a thick soup called ribollita. from todayprimetimes.com The Tomato Tree is also known as the Cyphomandra Betacea Sendt. This plant is the most well known among the family of 30 species. It is included in the family of Solanaceae. It is known of different names all over the world. Some of the names are the tree tomato, tomate extranjero, tomato granadilla, tomate, pix, granadilla, caxlan and tomate de arbol. However, shorty after the plant was found in New Zealand, it was named tamarillo and in the commercial world, it is known by that name ever since. The tomato tree is smaller than other trees however it is different from the other tomatoes as it has a branch that is half woody. This plant has an attractive look. It has the ability to grow quite fast but it has shallow root and might be perfect to be paired with other deep rooted plants. When fully grown, the plant can reach 10 to 18 feet in average or 3 – 5.5 meter. However, there has been noted that some of the biggest tomato tree can reach the height of 25 feet or 7.5 meter. This brittle tree has musky, odorous, heart-shaped leaves. The fruits of the tomato tree are long stalked and can be borne single or also in clusters of as little as 3 and as many as 12. The fruits are not round like most of the tomatoes, rather it has an oval egg shaped like. There are quite a variety of fruit skin colors. There are the blood red, yellow, orange, solid deep purple and a mix or red and yellow. However, the skin of the fruit is tough and is not pleasant, therefore, one will need to peel the skins before consumption. The tomato tree is not a tropical plant, rather it is a subtropical one. It has the ability to grow healthily on the land that is of 5000 to 10000 feet above sea level in Ecuador, or 1000 – 3000 feet in Puerto Rico, 1000 to 7500 feet in India, and 6000 feet in Haiti. Among those areas, it is in Haiti that the fruit can grow the best. It needs the temperature of above 10 degree Celsius to grow. When there are frosts, the small branches will be killed, but the main branches as well as the main stem will live if the frost is not too long or too frequent. When we visited the Amalfi Coast the lemons were everywhere.... on the terraced gardens, along the roadside, growing in pots, being sold from three wheeled vendors, overfilling crates outside of neighborhood Alimentari, in the gift shops in the form of soaps and scents, and in bottles of Limoncello. It's also in the food--in kitchens and ristoranti everywhere along the Amalfi Coast and in most of Campagnia where the world famous huge Sfusato lemons are grown. After recently seeing an episode of David Rocco's Amalfi Getaway in which he prepared 'Ndunderi (ricotta gnocchi) with a lemon sauce, I was inspired to create my own lemon sauce for use with pasta. I wanted to make it lemony, spicy and fragrant, the way I remember the flavors of the Amalfi Coast. I remember when we first stopped our car along the Coast Road and looked out at the rugged cliffs meeting that shimmering seascape... I was dumbstruck. I almost cried from the fact that I was actually standing there in this glorious environment. I wanted to create flavors that took me back to that moment... a mix of amazing beauty and the danger of the cliffs and the curvy road ahead. A blend of sweet tartness with some decent heat. I set to work... First I threw together some ingredients: 3/4 pound of cut up chicken breasts, salted and peppered with Lemon Pepper zest of 3 large lemons (the most fragrant you can find) The juice of two of the lemons 3 tablespoons of lemon flavored olive oil (for sautéing) 1/2 teaspoon pepperoncino (red pepper flakes) 2 whole cloves of garlic (paper removed) 1 cup of a fruity white wine (I used a French Sancerre we happened to have) 1 cup of Low Fat Half & Half (or heavy cream) 1 pound of a textured pasta to hold the sauce well (we used a large, imported Radiatore) 1 teaspoon basil 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano So, first I started with a big pot for the pasta with lots of water and a few tablespoons of salt.... covering the pot almost all the way, with the flame up high. (While doing all of the following prep, pay attention to when your water boils and then add the pasta). Next, I got the lemon zest ready and set it aside. A microplane is far better for this task than one of those old fashioned zesters. It gives a much finer, moist and fragrant zest. I placed about 3 tablespoons of the lemon olive oil in a 12" non-stick saute pan, sprinkled in the pepperoncino and turned the heat to medium. I cut up some white chicken breasts into short strips and salted them, then sprinkled with lemon-pepper mix. Adding the chicken to the hot pan, I sautéed them until I got some decent color on the first side (about 3 minutes), then, after I turned the pieces of chicken over, I added the two garlic cloves into the oil and then sprinkled the chicken with the lemon zest and continued to cook, tossing as needed for another minute or so. You can now squeeze in the juice from two of the lemons use your hands as a filter to keep the seeds from falling into the sauce. Then it was time to add the wine. If you can, get a bottle of Costa d'Amalfi white wine... as this was a spur of the moment, middle of the week recipe, I used the Sancerre I had in my clay wine storage tiles. Turn the heat up to high before you add the wine.... you want to burn off the alcohol. You can flame it by tilting the pan or just wait until the wine reduces a bit, then add the Half and Half (or heavy cream). Continue cooking to reduce the sauce, but depending on how textured your pasta is, you don't want this sauce too thick. You want it to get into all the crevices of the pasta. I would leave it thicker for something smooth, like ravioli. After a few minutes, your sauce should look like the photo below... creamy and coating the chicken well, but not thick or pasty. If you've gone too far, either add some more wine or a tablespoon of water to loosen it up a bit. Hopefully, your pasta should be ready by the end of cooking your chicken. If it's not, take your chicken and sauce off the flame, cover and set aside. Once the pasta is ready, drain in a colander, then combine well in a large pasta serving bowl. Toss in the Parmagiano Reggiano and basil and mix well. That's it... your Amalfi Lemon Pasta and Chicken is ready to serve. I hope you enjoy the bit of heat. Lucas and I thought it was perfect but Lisa thought I should have backed off a bit on the red pepper flakes. If you're not that into heat, perhaps use half the pepperoncino. And definitely half the rest of the bottle of wine with your meal... The Sancerre was a perfect compliment to the chicken, pasta and lemon fragrance.
Allora, buon appetito! --Jerry Finzi If you enjoyed this recipe, please share it with your friends and tell them to visit us... ciao! You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr Copyright 2016 - Jerry Finzi - All Rights Reserved We've grown our own basil for years now and of course, we all love pesto. One of the most basic ways to have pesto is with pasta, and our favorite is Insalata di Pasta con Pesto with Tuna and Heirloom Tomatoes. To begin, you have to grab a bunch of basil from the garden (or buy a large bunch from a supermarket or farmer's market). I usually cut the top leaf stalks off of about 4 plants in my garden when I want to make some pesto. I would guess when I remove the stems, it gives me about 2 cups of fresh basil leaves. The first step in making pesto is to pull all the leaves off their stems. The stems would make it stringy... you want only the leaves. For this reason, I prefer to grow Lettuce Leaf Basil when I can find spring plants or grow it from seed. The larger leaves that variety make it easy to harvest enough for a quick pesto meal. I've grown all sorts of other basils in the past, but some--like lemon basil--have such tiny leaves it's not worth the hassle of harvesting enough for a meal. (The following pesto recipe will make enough for 3-4 meals, depending how you are using the pesto.) I use a salad spinner to wash and then to spin the leaves dry. After spinning several times, they are dry enough to place into a blender or food processor. (Your choice). I add about 1 cup of an extra virgin olive oil and then, instead of pignoli nuts, I add 1 - 1/2 cups of walnuts. They are cheaper and I like the flavor better. Add a pinch of salt, about 10 grinds of fresh black pepper and then start to pulse the mixture. If you like, you can squeeze some fresh lemon or lime into the mix to brighten the flavors. Pay attention to the texture of your pesto. You want it to be like a thick paste and depending on your personal preference, you might like it a bit chunkier or very smooth. I prefer the slight crunch of the walnuts, so I don't go all that smooth with my mixing. If it looks like the pesto is too thick to can always drizzle in a bit more extra virgin olive oil to thin it out. When you are nearly at your final texture, add about 1 cup of your favorite grated cheese... Pecorino Romano, Locatelli or my favorite, Parmigiano-Reggiano. You might even try a dry sharp Provolone. Do a few final pulses to get the texture you want--I like it a bit grittier when used with pasta directly, but more smooth if I'm going to use it as an ingredient in a creamy pesto sauce, for ravioli or gnocchi, for instance. Now, to make the salad itself. Boil a big pot of water for your favorite pasta. This time we used an unusual imported bowtie pasta, but you can use any farfalle, radiatore, fusilli or campanelli, or even penne rigati, as long as the shape has ridges to hold the sauce. As your pasta cooks, prepare the salad ingredients... You'll use about 1 cup (or a bit more if you like) of the pesto--this recipe makes enough pesto for about 3 meals. Just keep the rest in a plastic container and top it off with olive oil to prevent oxidation. After you've put your pesto into a large serving bowl, add 1 tin or jar of a good quality, Italian imported tuna and some cut up tomatoes. I used a variety of heirloom cherry sized tomatoes I'm growing this year. If you like, you could also add black pitted olives and even some steamed (or canned and microwaved) string beans or Italian flat beans. Drain the cooked pasta and pour over the salad ingredients. Using a large serving spoon, toss gently while turning the pasta bowl several times to coat the pasta with all the ingredients. I usually top it off with more grated or flakes of Parmigiano-Reggiano. You can chill this a bit or serve at room temperature. Your choice. Try a good quality chianti with this dish, or perhaps a light soda made from seltzer and one of your favorite Torani syrop flavors. (We love having a Sodastream unit in the house for this reason...) Ecco qui... my simple, fresh and very tasty summer Insalata di Pasta con Pesto! Buon appetito!
--Jerry Finzi If you enjoyed this recipe, please share it with your friends and tell them to visit us... ciao! You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr Copyright 2016 - Jerry Finzi - All Rights Reserved Last night we just wanted a simple meal... all-American hot dogs on the grill. But I wanted something better than just fries to go with them. We've been getting our crop of heirloom tomatoes in, so I thought, why not? Pig out on the hot dogs, but relax and enjoy summer Italian style with a caprese salad!
Sure, I could have just sliced up some mozzarella and tomatoes and tossed some basil on top, but I wanted to give Lucas and Lisa a treat... especially Lisa. She's been working so hard lately battling her corporate dragons. She deserved something special. She deserved a smile. What can make a woman smile more than flowers? Fiori Caprese con Pomodori Antichi This is really simple but requires a steady hand and a bit of finesse positioning everything. Nothing fancy, really... anyone can do it. I placed 4 slices of mozzarella on the plate laid out in a cross pattern. Then I went to the garden and pulled some large basil leaves--4 for each plate. Positioned them on top of the cheese, then arranged various types of heirloom cherry tomatoes (in Italian, Antichi Pomodori ) that I had picked earlier in the day... The yellow are Olivette (a mild, egg shaped yellow) and the red are Mahogany Roma (a sweet "black" pear shape). A sprinkling of a balsamic that we brought back from Pienza in Tuscany and some oregano and they were good to go. In the end, the hot dogs were good, my Fiori Caprese con Pomodori Antichi was better, but Lisa's smile was the best... --Jerry Finzi You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr Copyright 2016 - Jerry Finzi - All Rights Reserved Last week, our son, Lucas had friends coming over and he was thinking creatively about a special snack... no more pretzels and juice boxes for this teen. His Family Consumer Sciences class at the end of the school year made Monkey Bread, but he wanted to make it even better at home by modifying my basic pizza dough recipe into a sweet bread dough. Good idea. He went to work. I helped him modify my Basic Thin Crust Pizza Dough with the following changes: Warm water was increased to 1 - 1/2 cups. We added 1/2 cup of whole milk. Instead of the honey, we added 1 tablespoon sugar to the yeast when proofing, and an additional 3 tablespoons sugar to the flour in the mixing bowl. For flour, we used only bread flour--about 3 - 3-1/2 cups until you get a rather sticky dough. When mixing the yeast and flour in the bowl, we added 1/2 stick of unsalted butter, melted. Melt the other 1/2 stick of butter and set aside for the cinnamon coating. Other than that, make the dough as you would in my Basic Pizza Dough recipe. After the dough rises, use olive oil to coat the insides of a non-stick cupcake or muffin pan. In a medium sized bowl, mix the 1/2 stick of butter with a cinnamon-sugar mix... about 1 cup should do. If you don't have cinnamon-sugar, use 1/3 cup cinnamon and 2/3 cup sugar. If you like, you can add another spice... a touch of allspice, perhaps. Turn out the dough onto a well floured work table, then cut 2" thick "ropes" and roll them thinner to about 3/4 - 1" thick. Cut them into 2-3 long pieces. Coat them with the cinnamon-sugar and butter and place them randomly in each compartment of your pan... pile them just over the top of the rim. When done, you can either spray the top with a butter spray, or place a couple of small dabs of butter on top. When done, cover with plastic wrap and set aside to rise for about 1 hour. When doubled in size, bake in a preheated 350 F oven for 35 minutes or until nicely browned and when a cake tester comes out clean. These are best when served warm. If making the day before, wrap in foil and re-heat in a 350 F oven for 15 minutes. Enjoy! --Jerry and Lucas Finzi You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr Copyright 2016 - Jerry Finzi - All Rights Reserved When you hear the word Pecorino, if you're like most people, you think of cheese. And since pecora means sheep, the best Pecorino from Italy is always made from 100% sheep’s milk (sadly, poor American imitations are made from cow's milk.) We fell in love with Pecorino cheese when visiting Pienza in Tuscany. Pecorino is king there. It's taste is nutty, sweet and creamy on the tongue, even if well aged. Pecorino dates back several thousand years, when people first started making cheese from sheep's milk. But there is another kind of Pecorino--a variety of grape and wine. Pecorino is a light-skinned grape used in Italy's Marche and Abruzzo, along the east coastline. The classic Pecorino is dry, a bit floral and straw colored, often with a bit of anise flavor. Even thought it has been cultivated for hundreds of years, the typical low yields caused it to be mostly replaced by other more productive varieties. Many thought the Pecorino grape had fell into obscurity or possible extinction. But in the 1980s, a Marche producer discovered some forgotten vines in an overgrown vineyard. Cuttings were taken, propagated, and wine was again produced in the early 1990s. Since then, the variety has grown and gotten a strong following. Pecorino is now grown in Marche, Abruzzo, Umbria and Tuscany. The Pecorino grape grows best in higher altitudes and has a high acidity along with a high sugar content. The sugar helps create a high level of alcohol, with the acidity balancing it all out. In the end, Pecorino still means both--wine and cheese--so you can have a double dose. Both go very well together, proven by the fact that historically, the Pecorino grape was also allowed to grow wild in the hills so sheep could enjoy the fruit as snacks... Buon Bere... The story goes that coffee was discovered by some unknown goat herder who noticed that his goats were more jumpy than normal after eating some seeds from a bush. This supposedly happened in Ethiopia, but it was in Yemen on the Arabian peninsula that coffee was first grown as a crop. Muslims drank it instead of wine for a "high". Many boasted its medicinal properties for all sorts of stomach ailments. In the middle ages it was it was introduced to Italy through the trade port of Venice. At first, people wanted this Muslim drink banned, but in 1600 it was given a Papal seal of approval. In England Tea is Queen, but in Italy coffee is King.
Coffee is part of a personal style statement for Italians. How much sugar you take, how much milk or even if you drink it amara (black), it's part of one's personal statement about their personality. If you don't drink coffee, especially after dinner, you'll be shunned as being pazzo or being under a curse. In Italy you don't just meet someone for a drink--you meet for coffee. It sharpens the senses for discussing business, politics or love. And if you ask someone to meet for coffee, offer to pay, even if you have to argue about it. Arguments are part of the dance--part of a day's rituals. And remember, the last thing an Italian wants to drink is a fancy, caramel flavored latte. They want--and need--coffee and only coffee. In fact, try and order a latte and you'll be given a glass of milk.
How to Order When ordering coffee at a bar, you're expected to pay first, get a receipt, then hand the receipt to the barista making the coffee. Baristi are well thought of in Italy. It's a job that commands respect and honor. Before they fill your order, they'll put a little tear in the receipt so you can't use it again. For an American, it seems odd to have to tell someone everything you want first, pay, and then go and pick everything up. They even do this in airport and train station snack shops. If you want espresso, don't ask for espresso. Ask for "una caffe, per favore". You'll get a small cup of espresso. When standing at a bar, drink your coffee fast (even if it's hotter than hell). Italians never sip. Sure, you can sit at a table like a tourist, but you'll be charged an extra couple of Euro for a cover. Italians are furbo (crafty), so they keep the two Euro in their pocket and stand to drink. By the way, you might get a small glass of water with your coffee, or you'll see glasses and a pitcher of water on the counter. If you do, it's not typically used for cooling or watering down your espresso. It's for cleansing your palette. In any event, do not try and sit for hours to drink coffee. Drink it fast or you'll be scorned as the Ugly American Tourista. And if you want to add a sugar free sweetener, don't ask for Sweet n Low, ask for Dietor, an Italian brand name. Try to remember... never, never call a cornetto a "croissant"! Croissants are French and fairly soft (they're made with lots of butter), while a cornetto is very Italian and has a crunch (made with lard or olive oil)-- perfect for dunking. In Italy, a typical breakfast is a caffè and a cornetto or other pastry. That's it. No one eats a big breakfast. They save up their appetites for large meals during extended lunchtime (2-3 hours long). Coffee is a big part of the morning ritual. Different Ways to Order Coffee Caffè: espresso, always a small cup, many Italians add a sweetener. Caffè Americano: watered down espresso, but still stronger than American coffee. Caffè Doppio: Double espresso Macchiato: a small cup of espresso with a splash of milk Marocchino: small cup of espresso with some cocoa powder and dash of milk Ristretto: a strong shot of espresso made with the normal amount of coffee but half the amount of water. Caffè corto: short espresso Caffè lungo: long espresso Cappuccino: espresso with steamed milk on top (with breakfast) NEVER after 11am, and NEVER after dinner Caffè Lungo: Literally, long coffee. This is a large cup of watered down espresso. Caffè Corretto: Not for breakfast, this is an espresso laced with a shot of liquor, like Grappa. Caffè Freddo: Chilled and shaken with ice, served in summer. Granita di Caffè: in summer--a coffee slushy. Caffè Latte: Milk flavored with coffee, served in a glass. Caffè Deca: Decaff coffee. "Deca" can be used with to order other decaffeinated coffee types, for example, "Cappuccino Deca". Now, if you really want to spend big money, you can get one of those dedicated (and huge) cappuccino machines. But you don't really need this just to make steamed milk for your cappuccino or macchiato. All you need is a small container to shake bubbles into your milk. Then you would heat up the milk in a microwave and spoon it on top of or into your coffee. If you use a coffee press to make your brew, there is a similar device to make bubbles in milk. Making coffee Italian style is a fairly straightforward thing, once you understand the nuances, that is. Get yourself a Moka pot, look for a blend that suits you and start brewing. Bonus Tip For Moka pots: Do NOT tamp your grounds. This is a technique used on high pressure pro machines... the Moka is a low pressure device. Just fill your Moka chamber to the top with loose grounds and screw it shut. Boun Caffe! --Jerry Finzi You can also follow Grand Voyage Italy on: Google+ StumbleUpon Tumblr Copyright 2016 - Jerry Finzi - All Rights Reserved
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