It's rare that Voyagers to Naples and the Amalfi Coast travel much further south past Salerno, but with its ancient Greek temples, rocky coast, picturesque port towns, sandy beaches, thousands of square miles of national park with its wild orchids, river rafting, mountain trekking and biking paths and even a ghost town or two, the Cilento Coast is a worthwhile destination. This isn't a very touristy area--aside from Italians. There won't be much English spoken in the villages and towns. If you come during the Ferragosto (August holiday), when most Italians are taking a month long vacation, the sandy beaches will be crowded with Italian families and in some areas, wall to wall beach umbrellas. But most other times of the year, the Cilento Coast is laid back and definitely not on the tourist radar although there are miles and miles of sandy beaches and their beach towns along the coast. This is Middle Class Italy at its best. You will see a mix of quaint towns, abandoned buildings, built-up beach resorts, construction projects seemingly at a standstill, rustic cabins and trailer camping grounds, Greek ruins, fantastic surprisingly great family ristorante, cozy and flowery B&Bs, Norman and Saracen watch towers, hilltowns and mostly fishing boats in place of luxury yachts. The climate is mild in the Cilento, even at the shoulders of the tourist season. Early spring and late fall will still have temperatures in the mid-sixties during the day--cold for Italians, but fine for the rest of us. And even in November, the rainy season is not really that rainy--about 9 days per month on average. The best news... even in August, the historic averages are in the mid eighties, due to both the sea breezes and the cool air coming down from the mountains. The sunsets are also better on the Cilento because the sun sets over the sea, unlike on the Amalfi Coast where the sun sets over the mountains in the direction of Capri. And if you love mountain biking, SCUBA diving, fishing, trekking and exploring grottoes and caverns, then the Cilento is a place to explore... Paestum: Greek Temples Older than Ancient Rome Paestum (originally named as Poseidonia, honoring the god Poseidon) was founded by the Greek Achaeans around 600 BC as a major city and trading port with a system of roads, temples, and defensive walls. It was an attractive site due to its fertile fields, sea port and access to the inland mountains. Paestum is a day trip from the Amalfi Coast, with tourist buses dropping off the throngs of people in late morning, but Voyagers to the Cilento Coast can consider it as their first stop to discover its three well preserved Greek temples, archeological site and museum. The Temple of Hera is oldest, built in 550 BC. It has 9 Doric columns on each facade and 18 along each side. The Temple of Athena was built around 500 BC. It has outer Doric columns and Ionic columns inside. It is 6 columns wide by 13 long. The Doric Temple of Hera II is the youngest, built in 460 BC and is also the best preserved. It is six columns wide by fourteen long. By 273 AD, the Romans took control and renamed it Paestum. The workaday beach town of Paestum is also worth a stop for a pizza with mozzarella di bufala or for a walk on its beach. Mozzarella di Bufala The most famous and important food product of the area, especially in the towns of Battipaglia, Eboli and Paestum is by far the Mozzarella di Bufala. There is no cow's milk used in this region for mozzarella. The milk used is from buffalo, or rather, the breed of water buffalo raised in the Campania region and the resulting cheese is a DOP protected product. Fully 90% of the mozzarella di bufala is produced in this region. Tours of a buffalo farm are possible, but two good ones to check out are Taverna Penta and Tenuta Vannulo. The buffalo are treated well here... they even have self-service massage machines that the buffalo can go to whenever then need a little spa treatment. When trekking in the high mountains of the Cilento you will probably come across herds of buffalo grazing--a beautiful sight. The amazing taste of Mozzarella di Bufala--as well as their meat (very popular here)--is a testament to their fine treatment. Flying in Cilento: Zip-Line Adventure at Trentinara
Coastal Towns Worth a Visit Agropoli's history is varied and interesting, from the neolithic people living in the surrounding hills, hunting and fishing, to the indigenous people that created a more stable settlement before the Greeks came around 600 BC and settled in nearby Positania (Paestum). The Greeks use the large bay (since silted up) and river for fishing and trading. By the 1st century BC, Romans controlled the settlement and renamed it Ercola to honor Hercules. The Byzantines took over control in the 5th century BC and the Normans built a fortress castle to ward off attacks from the Turks. As late as the 1800s, even the French controlled the port town. Only one hour from Salerno by car, Agropoli is part of the National Park of Cilento and Valley of Diano and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It's a romantic town, especially at night, virtually every balcony has a great view of the sea, fig trees and the mountains. Worth a visit is its castle which crowns the medieval village (borgo), cobbled streets and its wonderful churches. There are obvious influences of the Saracens, the Turks, Byzantines, the Romans and the Greeks in its architecture, food and culture. In summer there are medieval festivals with colorful costumes in the old town and flowers just about everywhere. Agropoli would be a very good choice as a hub for a longer stay to explore other areas of the Cilento. When we talk about visiting Castellabate, we are really talking about three towns... The old town of Castellabate high up on the hill with magnificent views of the broad gulf, San Marco, the picturesque small port village on the southern edge of the bay, and the larger Santa Maria di Castellabate, arguably the best resort town on the Cilento Coast. San Marco offers fine hotels, a natural walking path to a rocky "la Grotta" bathing environment, and its small pleasure boat harbor. The hill top medieval village of Castellabate is a UNESCO treasure, with amazing views of the gulf between Punta Licosa and Punta Tresino (the natural sea park). Perhaps its best treasures are its castle and the Papal cathedral. During summer and fall there are medieval festivals with celebrants in colorful costumes. This historic village is positively magical at night. Sitting on the east coast of the blunt Cilento peninsula, Santa Maria di Castellabate, is one of the most picture perfect beach towns on the entire Cilento Coast. It has several sandy beaches frequented by families, not movie stars. Perhaps its best feature is its promenade along the port, a great place for an early evening passeggiata. There are also a good variety of restaurants and cafes to choose from. This is definitely a place to stay for a while or as a hub to explore the rest of the Cilento. Acciaroli has the honor of having over 300 residents over the age of 100, mostly due to its laid back lifestyle and healthy Mediterranean diet. It is sleepy seaside village with a scenic seaside walkway and a charming old town. The crusty details of the aging architecture is a photographer's dream. An authentic fishing port, you will see mostly fishing boats with the trawl nets and sailboats docked in the small harbor. There is also a long sandy beach with some of the cleanest water imaginable. It's possible that during your stay you won't meet anyone but locals. Earnest Hemingway wrote the Old Man and the Sea after spending time in Acciaroli, his "old man" character being drawn from a fisherman he befriended while there. Palinuro is the southernmost town on the Cilento Coast I am profiling... but more than just the town, I am recommending Capo Palinuro and the rugged area and shoreline surrounding this rather typical holiday and camping town. This rugged promontory juts out into the sea with many crags, cliffs, islets, sea grottoes and even several natural arches. If you like things rugged or camp with a caravan (we call them a Third Wheel here in the States) then this town is for you. Otherwise, you could rent a holiday villa and explore the area... renting boats, SCUBA diving, mountain biking, hiking, bird watching and more. Capo Palinuro is a naturalist's dream, with many sentieri (hiking paths) throughout the peninsula that can be used to observe flora and fauna--there are thousands of indigenous species for botanists, birdwatchers and casual nature lovers. Even the beaches in the village of Palinuro are of interest--they are located in rocky tide pools hatever you do, try not to miss the Blue Grotto, the Arch of Palinuro, or just rent a boat at the marina and discover the many other sea grottoes that dot the Capo. The really amazing thing about the Capo is that the distances between sites are very low. A circumnavigation of the cape by rental boat is roughly 3 miles one way--a very doable and amazing boating adventure for a single day's boat rental where you will experience monumental cliffs, snorkel in a sea grotto, swim in unbelievably clear waters, sun yourselves on pristine sandy beaches and perhaps come upon a Palinuro Sea Otter. Also, hiking loop trails on the cape are fairly short distances, for instance, the longest loop trail that takes you from the village of Porto up and around the Capo and back is a little over 3 miles. Still, these trails do involve a change in elevation of about 300 feet, so you need to be fit to enjoy them. Fun Fact: The Arch of Palinuro can be seen in 1960s Hercules films and Jason & the Argonauts. I suggest ending your coastal Voyage of the Cilento Coast at Palinuro simply because most of the towns further to the south are very large beach towns with kitchey tourist shops and wall to wall beach umbrellas from larger hotels. Starting at the holiday town of Marina di Camerota to the bustling town of Sapri set in its deep cove harbor (the last coast town in the Cilento region) the feeling is less and less laid back and more holiday town. I will mention, that for campers, there is a nearly three mile strand of straight sandy beach that looks back on the Capo di Palinuro stretching from the Fiume Mingardo river to Marina di Camerota with several camp/caravan venues, but during the high season these might be booked solid by Italian holiday campers. Leaving the Palinuro area, I'd suggest driving up toward the hilltown of Senza, located near the southern starting point of the Vallo di Diano... (see MAP) --Jerry Finzi Copyright 2017, Jerry Finzi/Grand Voyage Italy - All Rights Reserved
Piazza dei Miracola, Pisa Most people spend about a hour visiting the Piazza and taking their iconic "hold up the Tower" photos. If you would like to spend more time in Pisa, it is a beautiful town, looking similar to Florence as you stroll the banks of the River Arno. You can also buy timed tickets to climb to the top of the Tower. But a better plan would be visiting the Leaning Tower in the early morning or late afternoon (when cruise ship tours are not there) and plan a day visiting nearby Lucca. If driving, there is a pay-parking lot a block from Piazza dei Miracola. St. Peters Square & Basilica, Rome If you want to visit the Basilica, it's free because it is a functioning Church, but you will have to wait on very long security check lines--often three hours! Bring water in hot months. It's a magnificent--if overly opulent--piece of architecture and the seat of Christianity, but if you are going to pray, you might not find peace here. It is very crowded, noisy and there are signs warning of pickpockets. If you want to visit for religious reasons, do so on Wednesday mornings when the Pope has his Papal Audience and addresses the faithful in the Piazza. There are free tickets for seats that you should obtain well before your trip and then you should arrive 1-3 hours before the Audience. Bring water, sunscreen and perhaps an umbrella--the Piazza can be very hot. Tickets do not guarantee a seat, but there is standing room for 80,000 people in the Piazza. Sistine Chapel, Vatican Museum, Rome Don't expect to have a personal experience in the Sistine Chapel where you can sit and ponder the glorious creation of Michelangelo. Years ago, people would lie on the floor with binoculars and spend hours looking at the details. Those days are gone. Large tour groups are hustled in--and out--along with "private" tour groups (we had a private tour). They allow about ten minutes, and most of this is spent sweating, listening to the cackling crowd, with Oriental tourists donning hats, unaware that they should be removed when in a Catholic chapel of worship. And just try to get a seat on one of the side wall marble benches. If you want to savor the Sistine Chapel in both high resolution detail views and in 3-D, click HERE. Spanish Steps, Rome The Steps are in a chic shopping district where you might not be able to afford their offerings. There is poet John Keats' home above, an English tearoom nearby, a beautiful Fountain of a Roman Galley below and lots of tourists taking the load off their weary feet. I don't see the attraction. Colosseum, Rome It's easier to buy your tickets at the entrance up the hill slightly at the entrance to Palatine Hill. The 2-day tickets are good for the Hill, the Forum and the Colosseum. I suggest making your visit to the Colosseum in early morning (stand on line at 8am) or 1-2 hours before they close. Avoid the middle of the day, especially in summer--there is no shade. Pantheon, Rome One of the best and most interesting times to visit would be in the middle of a rain storm... the rain falls to the marble floor from the 27 foot occulus above making a beautiful sound. High noon would be best to see the sun shine straight down. Beware of pickpockets inside this functioning church! The piazza outside is lively and worth a visit. To avoid crowds, early or late in the day is best. Piazza San Marco, Venice Stay clear of Rialto and San Marco--that's where most tourists flock. Instead, check out San Giorgio Maggiore, the island just across from San Marco. Enjoy the views looking back at the Campanile. The colorful island of Burano is also worth a visit. Wander the back streets and alleys of Venice to avoid the crowds. Later in the afternoon when the cruise ship groups have gone is much more calm. Trevi Fountain, Rome Very early in the morning, or late evening is best, otherwise you will have to wait your turn to get close to the edge of the Fontana to ensure your return to Rome by the traditional coin toss. Cortona (of Under the Tuscan Sun fame) There are many other amazingly beautiful Tuscan hilltowns worth visiting other than this over-hyped, buss tour destination town. Try Pienza, for instance. Vatican Museum, Rome Almost nothing helps avoid the crush of people and the large tour groups. If you book a Private Vatican Museum Tour, talk him into getting you to the Sistine Chapel ASAP, if you want to savor it without throngs of disrespectful tourist groups, otherwise, the rushed tours will eventually swallow you and your "private tour guide" up. Juliette's Balcony, Verona Skip it entirely. Consider that Romeo and Juliette are fictitious characters. No one named Juliette ever lived here, and there is no evidence that Shakespeare ever stepped foot in Italy. Bus tours dump throngs of people off here to pay an entrance fee to a house that has nothing to do with Juliette, and they grab and polish Juliette's bronze boob on the statute below. Teens write love notes and post them on the wall with chewing gum. Get tickets for an opera in Verona's Roman arena instead. Uffizi Gallery, Florence Very early in the morning (8am) or late in the afternoon (5pm) will be less crowded. Michelangelo's David - Accademia, Florence Accademia tickets are to be reserved (by scheduled time) way ahead of your visit. Later in the day is best to avoid crowds. Shopping in Florence Save your shopping for the Oltrano district, on the other side of the Arno River and avoid the tourist counterfeits and shoulder-to-shoulder crowds. You will find authentic craftsmen for leather, jewelry, ceramics, clothing and more in the Oltrano. Gondola ride in Venice Try to get a gondola ride later in the afternoon when the tour buses have left to avoid a traffic jam on the canal. Ischia beach, Naples This is where locals go--way too many of them. The beaches on the mainland due north of Ischia are much less crowded. Driving the Amalfi Coast Road The roads are extremely narrow with enormous traffic in the high season. Large buses, motorcyclists, bicycles and tandem 18-wheelers make it terrifying to some. The town of Amalfi is a tacky tourist trap. Go to Atrani, Cetera, Minori or Maiori instead. Head to Vietri sul Mare for the best ceramics. If you do drive, rent a small car! Pompeii Archeological Site Buses dump off large tour groups from cruise ships. Late afternoon visits are best. Bring a refillable water bottle and use the many fountains around the site. There is an Auto-Grill on site for lunch. Wear comfortable shoes--walking on uneven, 2000 year old paving is rough going in Pompeii. La Bocca della Verita Grand Voyage Italy's mascot, the Bocca della Verita (Mouth of Truth) is well worth the visit. It's very close to the Roman Forum and across from the Temple di Vesti. It's worth the ten to fifteen minute wait on line to test your truthfulness by placing your hand in the Bocca's mouth. If you leave with your hand intact, you're a truthful person. The chapel inside is worth a visit, too. --Jerry Finzi Copyright 2017, Jerry Finzi/Grand Voyage Italy - All Rights Reserved
In the area north of Trieste on the Carso (Karst) Plateau in the northeast Italian region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, the land is made up of limestone caverns, rugged cliffs and soils... a perfect place to grow fine wines. The region is an ethnic blend of Italian, Slovenian and Austrian influences. In fact, some of this region used to be part of either Austria or Yugoslavia. The advantage to the Voyage here is having a blend of wines, cheeses, salumi and other gastronomic treats. A great way to get a taste of the specialties produced in the area is to search out the many local Osmize (osmizza, ossmizeri), a sort of home-based tavern where you can sample the formaggio, prosciutto, meats, sausages, eggs, grappa, pickles, olive oil and other things produced by small scale farmers. And of course, there are the local wines: mostly Teran, Vitovska, Malvasia, both reds and whites served in carafes and in no-nonsense glasses without stems. The people serving you are the same people who grew, nurtured, bottled, aged and otherwise perfected the delights they offer. They will slice the prosciutto off the huge hams and make your omelette to order for you. These are small family farms, pretty much hidden in suburban areas, often having a series of picnic tables in their backyard, tables tucked under the olive trees or even rustic taverne built into their cellars or patios, complete with wooden wine barrels, overhanging arbors, fire grills and even musicians to entertain you with accordion, guitar or hand drum. Everyone joins in the singing, even if they don't know the words... History of Osmize The name itself is of interest: Osmize (also Osmizza, Osmica) is a word based on the Slovenian osem, which means "eight". A short history of the custom of Osmize will explain... Historians can trace the existence of osmize back to medieval times in a document from 1430 shows that wine sold in bulk by peasant producers near Trieste would not be taxed. This was reinforced in 1784 by Joseph II of Hapsburg who decreed that farmers could sell bulk wine from their homes for periods of eight days each year. The custom stuck, only nowadays, the farmers themselves decide when they are open or not. They are also opened all year round, with the warmer months being favored due to the beautiful weather to enjoy the al fresco experience. How to Find an Osmiza? This is where the fun starts. You see, Osmize don't advertise. They don't have prime locations on the main roads. They are located in the countryside and amid the suburban sprawl outside of Trieste and around the towns of Longera, Piscianzi and also across the border in Slovenia. As you drive trough the area by car or bicycle (a very popular way of seeing the area) you will start to see a small wooden arrows with a cutting of ivy branches tacked to poles, walls or fences. It's sort of like when you follow a series of signs in the U.S., like way-points, to find a remotely located barn sale. There will be several signs leading you to the osmiza. When you arrive, don't be surprised at how unassuming it might appear. You might at first think you're in the wrong place, and trespassing into someone's home. But that's the point. These are peoples' homes. The wines grown in the Karst will include the sour, black-red Terrano with an intense flavor; Vitovska, a light, fragrant white wine with hints of almond; and the aromatic Glera the its deep yellow color and aromatic flavor. You will be able to buy cases of wine, bottles or simply enjoy a carafe and enjoy the wines in a more casual way. So if you are looking for a more casual way to go wine tasting, consider a drive north of Venice into the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region and set out to "Visit the branches", as the locals say. Slow down... drink, eat, relax and discover that wine tasting doesn't have to be in a tall, thin stemmed crystal glass, slurping isn't necessary and you can enjoy the vino with the people who grew the grapes, aged the wine and bottled it. There are no pesticides on the food served. You can sit among strangers and feel like lifelong friends within the hour. The seasons change, the views can also change, but the feeling is all famiglia. --Jerry Finzi Here is a fun little quiz to take that will help you find out what part of Italy would be a perfect destination, depending on your tastes...
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