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We're All About Italy

Cucina

Olive Ripiene Fritte - Fried Stuffed Olives

7/21/2018

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In the Marche region of Italy, and certainly appearing in other areas of Italy also, you will find large, green, stuffed Ascolan olives. These olives typically appear on menus as an antipasto, snacking with friends and some beer, or to have with an Italian aperitivo, and a dipping bowl of marinara. They are easy for the home cook to make for casual gatherings, picnics or holiday feasts...

You can use large, green pitted olives found in jars in supermarkets. The larger the olive, the better. If you buy the pitted type, you can fill them with anything that meets your tastes: provolone, roasted garlic cloves, walnuts, blue cheese, pimentos, or as they do in the Marche, filled with cooked ground beef with nutmeg added. Otherwise, just use the ready-filled olives that are available.

First, coat them in
flour, then in beaten egg and finally in "Italian style" or breadcrumbs--or even Panko. Then simply fry them in olive oil until golden brown. You can eat them while hot as is, or serve with a dipping marinara sauce. They can even be made ahead of time and re-heat well in a 350 F oven for 5-8 minutes or quickly in a microwave.

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As an option to marinara as a dipping sauce, try some
Garlic-Lemon Aioli...

Whisk together the following:
1/3 cup mayonnaise
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 clove of garlic, finely minced
salt and pepper to taste



--GVI

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Canederli: An Italian Matzo Ball?

12/15/2017

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Well... Almost.  Canederli are bread dumplings found in the north-east of Italy (Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli, and part of the Veneto), typically served in beef broth, dry or with a sauce. They are made using stale bread, milk, onions, parsley, eggs and a little flour. Often they are stuffed with speck (a smoked prosciutto), cheese, mushrooms or pancetta. You can also serve them as a side with sausages.
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Stuffed with cheese
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Topped with speck
Canederli with Speck
Ingredients
1/2 pound of stale bread
2 eggs, beaten
6 ounces diced Speck
1 medium onion, diced
6 cups milk
fresh parsley
4 tablespoons butter, softened
1 tablespoon flour
pinch nutmeg
Pinch salt

Instructions
  • Put the pieces of stale bread in a large bowl and soften them with some milk.  When completely soft, wring out excess milk. 
  • Add the diced speck and then some salt, the butter, parsley and the onion. 
  • Season with some nutmeg and salt.
  • Mix with two eggs and stir thoroughly adding some flour if necessary.  Cover and leave to rest for 20 minutes in the refrigerator.
  • Forms 2" balls from the mixture and boil them in salted hot water for 15 minutes or until they float to the top.
  • Serve hot in a bowl with broth, tomato sauce. Top with grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Asiago. 
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Pizzette: Tiny Pizzas Perfect for a Party

9/12/2017

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photo by Fabio Cremonesi
Have a party to plan for? How about making a bunch of Pizzette--tiny pizzas? They are simple to prepare. Just use any pizza dough recipe, use a round cookie cutter (or a glass) to cut out the small rounds, top with sauce and other favorite toppings (make a lot plain and pepperoni for the kids) and pop them in the oven on large, dark colored sheet pans oiled with light olive oil. Keep a little space between each one. Bake in a preheated 475F oven for 5-7 minutes, or until both the top and bottoms are done.

These little pizzas holdover well. You can make quite a large batch (for a school or church event, for example) and they can even be served Italian style, at room temperature.

--Jerry Finzi
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The Difference Between Cardoon (Cardi) and Other Stalk Vegetables

6/5/2017

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PictureCardi as we first discovered in in a Montepulciano market
In the very first market we visited in Italy, we came upon a strange looking, rugged celery-looking vegetable: Cardi (Cardoon in English, in Italian it's Cardo, Cardone or Carduna). But Cardi is not celery and it is used in a very different ways. In talking to other Foodies in the States, I have found that many confuse Cardoon with Swiss Chard, or worse, with Rhubarb (which, because of its sweetness is used more like a fruit, as in pies). I thought I would explain the differences between this confusing batch of stalk veggies...

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Celery in the rear, Cardi in front. Notice the deep ribs and barbs along the edges.
PictureBlanching Cadri
Cardoon is a member of the thistle family and a close cousin of artichoke, but unlike the artichoke, the stalks and not the flowers are eaten. In fact, it tastes like artichoke. If you like artichokes, you should enjoy Cardi. Cardoon grows in the field as a fairly dangerous, spiny plant, just like thistle. Unlike celery,  its ribs are fibrous (and much more stringy) and need to be removed using a vegetable peeler. Along the sides of each stalk are fairly sharp barbs which also need to be peeled. Eaten raw, the stalks are nearly inedible--amazingly bitter, fibrous and tough. In general, there is no such thing as overcooking Cardi if you want to get them tender enough to eat--while getting rid of their dental-floss stringiness.

In Italy, the average supermarket variety of Cardi on sale looks like a rough textured, perhaps dirty celery, with the tops trimmed off and bound by a twist tie, but in open air produce markets, you might find more choices. Often you will see a very tall (3-4'), straight variety with its thistle looking leaves intact. There is also another called Gobbi, a curved, hunchbacked type.

Blanched Cardi are grown in darkness to produced a very pale color, in the same way white asparagus or white endives are grown by covering the maturing stalks. These are the more expensive and prized for culinary use because their taste is less bitter and they tend to cook faster. Their taste when well-cooked, as I mentioned earlier, is like artichoke, but with a smokey edge and hint of licorice, as with finocchio (bulbing fennel). If you ever decide to grow Cardoon in your garden, always remove the beautiful blue flower heads (they look like thistle flowers) to prevent the plant from dropping seeds or your garden will have hundreds of weedlings coming up next season.

Swiss Chard (Bietola)
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Swiss Chard has distinctive, ruffled leaves
Swiss Chard, or Bietola (in Italian) is a quick-cooking green that is reminiscent of spinach, though sweeter. It comes with white, red, or golden stalks and veins. It is a member of the beet family and is commonly called silverbeet or spinach beet. Obviously, unlike Cardi, the leaves are the important part for culinary use.
Swiss chard leaves can be added raw to  salads or on sandwiches or wraps. It can be cooked in a variety of ways: braised, boiled, sautéed or added to soups and casseroles.
You can sauté Swiss Chard leaves and stems in a small amount of extra-virgin olive oil and season with freshly ground black pepper, minced garlic, and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Eat as a side dish or as a baked potato topping. You can also cook the stems by first cutting in a small dice to soften them and adding to salsa, relish or chutney.
Rhubarb (Rabarbaro)
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The main difference between Rhubarb and the other "stalk" veggies discussed here is that it does not grow in a head. The stalks grows from a woody rhizome individually and are harvested by cutting each close to the ground. Of course, the obvious difference is that, although a vegetable, Rhubarb is used in the same way we use sour cherries in pies. They are highly acidic and blend well with other sweet ingredients.

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The other thing I should mention is that, like Cardi, only the stalks of Rhubarb are eaten. In fact, its leaves can be considered highly toxic. They contain dangerously high levels of oxalic acid which can cause serious kidney stones or permanent damage which could lead to pain or even death. Even a small amount still has the ability to make a person sick.
Sauteed Cardone Recipe
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Ingredients:
  • 1 bunch cardi
  • flour for coating
  • salt
  • pepper
  • oil – (olive oil is my preference)
Directions
  • Clean and rinse the cardi: remove all the leaves, then using a vegetable peeler, remove bristles on the sides of the stalks, then peel the strings off the back of the stalks. 
  • Cut stalks into 2 – 3 inch pieces.
  • Cook cardi in covered pan with well-salted water until tender (10 – 15 minutes).  
  • Drain cardi and let cool – enough to handle.
  • Combine flour, salt and pepper into a large plastic or paper bag.  Place a few pieces of cardi in bag, shake to coat. 
  • Place floured pieces in skillet with olive oil.  Let cook until golden brown on all sides. Drain on paper towels. Repeat with remaining cardi. 
--Jerry Finzi
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Ladybug Caprese Insalata

3/3/2017

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There is nothing like the flavors of fresh mozzarella, basil, olive oil and tomatoes. The myriad of ways these simple ingredients can be put together boggles the mind, ranging from pizza to lasagna to panini.  The culmination of this combination is an excellent example of the simplicity of Italian cuisines: Caprese... nothing more than a simple insalata (salad) of these basic components.

While you can simply lay some slices of tomato on a plate, top them with mozzarella and basil, and then drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, at times you want some to do something to impress or simply for fun, and the kids will love making...
Ladybug Caprese Insalata.

It couldn't be easier. Place slices of mozzarella on your plate (placing mozzarella in the freezer for 15 minutes will help make slicing easier) then top each one with a fresh basil leaf. Next, take cherry tomatoes and with a very sharp paring knife, cut the separation between the two "wings" a little more than halfway up and tease them open--just a little so they look like beetle wings. Next, slice a bit of the "neck" of the tomato off so you can tuck a pitted, black olive into it as the "head". The two antennas are easy to make using the soft stems on the end of the leaves. Make holes with a toothpick, then insert the stems.

Now, how to make the spots has become a subject of debate all over social media. There are several ways to make them. The first (and easiest) is to use aged balsamic vinegar... dotting the spots on using a toothpick. (The thin stuff they pass off as balsamic in supermarkets will not work). Aged balsamic is viscus enough to stick and shouldn't drip or more. Just be careful not to drizzle olive oil on the backs of your ladybugs if you use this method. If you don't want to spend the extra cash on aged balsamic, just reduce the supermarket variety in a saucepan under high heat to create a reduction--a thick glaze--and use that.

The second way, is to cut very tiny dots from the skin of a black olive. Use a sharp paring knife to skin the olive, then do very small julienne strips. Then, slice into little dot shapes. It's a bit finicky, but not really hard to do. The dampness of the inside of each olive skin dot will help stick them to the cherry tomatoes. Pick each "dot" up with the tip of your paring knife to put into place.

A third way is to use individual grains of course, black sea salt. You can pierce the skins of the tomatoes at each location of a dot, then gently sit a grain of salt in each one.

A fourth method is to take some cream cheese and color it with black paste food coloring (the type used in cake decorating). Then use a very small circular piping tip and pipe little dots onto the ladybug backs.

Some think that an edible marker can create the dots, but my experience in using these markers is that they are a water based dye and will bead up on the smooth skin of a tomato. You won't be able to draw a spot that will hold its shape and they might even run, especially if you drizzle extra virgin olive oil over the creation.  

To finish off the plate, carefully sprinkle some fresh black pepper around the mozzarella but be careful not to get any on your ladybugs. Alternately, you can leave out the black pepper. Then drizzle extra virgin olive oil over the creation, but remember, if using balsamic as the dots, steer clear of them. Finish with a sprinkle of sea salt.

You can make your Ladybugs on a serving platter or on individual plates, perhaps two per person.

--Jerry Finzi

Some photos just for inspiration...

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Under Construction...

1/22/2017

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